Error Code I can not clear - Curtis Controller 1236

garolittle

10 kW
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Messages
509
Location
Augusta, GA U.S.A
Hello. I am using the Curtis Controller 1236 on my electric go kart along with a 48V AC-9 from HPEVS.com. All was working will until a few days ago. There are 35 wire ("Pin") slots which connect to the curtis controller.

I have normally have Pin #25 (Red/Blue wire) connected to the “forward/reverse switch” on my go kart. It has been disconnected in the attached picture per the discussion below.

IMG_5465.jpg

Until recently it was working fine with no error codes. I just received error code #69 and error code #25 on the Curtis Controller. When I remove Pin #25 (Red/Blue wire) from the forward/reverse switch, the error code goes away but the error code returns as soon as Pin #25 is connected again. From reading the manual it is clear to me that this is some type of over or under voltage issue regarding Pin #25 but I cannot figure out how to fix it. Per the attached photo, the manual states that I have to “bring the extra supply current within range”.

IMG_5488.JPG

There in lies what must be a very simple problem. :oops: How do I bring the extra supply current within range? Any ideas? Thanks in advance for your help.

Gary Little
Augusta, GA
 
amberwolf said:
What's the voltage at the pin, with and without it connected?

Thanks. Really appreciate the response. The voltage is essentially 0 when connected and just over 12 1/2 Volts when disconnected. Any ideas you can offer a much appreciated. Thanks again.

E3219600-D7B6-47CB-8C8E-67D371861214.jpegEB87D55D-EC74-4784-85E3-7C0B3C777693.jpeg
 
My apologies. I should have measured the voltage using “B-“ on the controller. I will do so tonight and post the results. Thanks.
 
Where do the other wires go? My take on the error is the 12v supply is getting loaded down too much from something.

Can you post a wiring diagram?
 
fechter said:
Where do the other wires go? My take on the error is the 12v supply is getting loaded down too much from something.

Can you post a wiring diagram?

Ok. Voltage when connected = .08V
Voltage when disconnected = 12.67V

The orange wire is connected to the Curtis Throttle Box (PB-6). The yellow wire is the "forward" wire from the controller (Pin#22). The white wire is the "reverse" wire from the controller (Pin#33). These wires are shown on the basic wiring diagram below.....

IMG_5502.JPGIMG_5501.JPGWiring Diagram.jpg
 
I appreciate all the great responses so far. I’m going to try a few things to see what happens. I will post the results as soon as I know the answer. Thanks again for all the help. This form is great. Gary.
 
single pole double throw.

has a single input (or output) center contact, that is switched between either of two other contacts.

Sometimes people only wire them up to one thing, so one of the other contacts is unused, which means you could just use an on-off spst (single pole single throw) switch instead.

sometimes they're both used, like high beam and low beam on a headlight, or switching between precharge and run modes on a controller, or switching between any two things on somethin.
 
Yes, the reverse switch wiring doesn't look like the diagram. The middle wire on the switch goes to pack voltage (J1-1) in the diagram.

Where does the orange wire go?
 
fechter said:
Yes, the reverse switch wiring doesn't look like the diagram. The middle wire on the switch goes to pack voltage (J1-1) in the diagram.

Where does the orange wire go?

Thanks for all the great responses. :D The orange wire goes to the throttle (Curtis PB-6 "Pot Box" Throttle).
 
fechter said:
Yes, the reverse switch wiring doesn't look like the diagram. The middle wire on the switch goes to pack voltage (J1-1) in the diagram.


I appreciate all of the great responses. I want to make sure I do this right so please see photo below. Currently, J1-25 (Red/Blue wire) is connected to the the middle part of the 12V Forward/Reverse switch as shown by the green arrow on the left. Also, the J1-1 wire (Dark Blue wire) is connected to a different switch (see blue arrow on the right). For reference, J1-25 currently shows 12.67V. The wires connected the other switch (see blue arrow again) are showing 54V which is the pack voltage.

The consensus seems to be to move J1-25 (Red/Blue wire) to the other switch (see blue arrow again). Correct? I can't thank you guys enough for your patience. This is a very important project and I want to get it right. IMG_4732 2.jpg
 
garolittle said:
fechter said:
Yes, the reverse switch wiring doesn't look like the diagram. The middle wire on the switch goes to pack voltage (J1-1) in the diagram.


I appreciate all of the great responses. I want to make sure I do this right so please see photo below. Currently, J1-25 (Red/Blue wire) is connected to the the middle part of the 12V Forward/Reverse switch as shown by the green arrow on the left. Also, the J1-1 wire (Dark Blue wire) is connected to a different switch (see blue arrow on the right). For reference, J1-25 currently shows 12.67V. The wires connected the other switch (see blue arrow again) are showing 54V which is the pack voltage.

The consensus seems to be to move J1-25 (Red/Blue wire) to the other switch (see blue arrow again). Correct? I can't thank you guys enough for your patience. This is a very important project and I want to get it right. IMG_4732 2.jpg

No. J1-25 only connects to the communication devices. J1-25 is 12V+ supplied from the Curtis internal circuitry for that purpose only. Do not connect J1-25 to any switch. All the switched inputs such as forward, J1-22 and reverse, J1-33 must be switched to J1-1, B+ (=54V positive) to activate. The keyswitch connects B+(=54V positive) to J1-1.

Follow the wiring diagram.

major
 
major said:
No. J1-25 only connects to the communication devices. J1-25 is 12V+ supplied from the Curtis internal circuitry for that purpose only. Do not connect J1-25 to any switch. All the switched inputs such as forward, J1-22 and reverse, J1-33 must be switched to J1-1, B+ (=54V positive) to activate. The keyswitch connects B+(=54V positive) to J1-1.

Follow the wiring diagram.

major

Thanks major. I also noticed that the “Vehicle Controller Language” (VCL) was set to “on”. As soon as I moved J1-22 and J1-33 to 54V (pack voltage) and switched the VCL to “off” it worked. I really appreciate your responses as well as all of the others. You guys are great.
 
Everything is working great now. Thanks to everyone for their help. Going for 70 mph this weekend. Hit 54 mph with a 4 to 1 gear ratio. Check it out.

https://www.facebook.com/247184812650883/posts/363265574376139?s=100003693055805&v=e&sfns=mo
 
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