streetlegal crosskart/buggy build 140hp

Joined
Oct 9, 2013
Messages
190
hey guys,

while a was away for i while i couldn't get my head away, from a project i was thinking off a long time...
but school got in the way, then covid-19 hit. and around that time all the lessons where online. that wasn' t working for me so i got a new project on my hands...

first a small project a drift trike but now build from scratch: (pictures will folow tonight)
specs:
- 1000w 60v bosch hub motor
- kelly kls6030S
- 3x 60v 28ah battery 18650's
- rear kart axle and bearings


But the "Real" project a street legal crosskart with +-140hp diffrential with manual locker.
build to last and to take a hit onroad as offroad.

I needed parts so i looked for some drive lines from cars/motorcycles etc.
but none of the car parts had diffrentials that could be locked solid..

So i went with the next parts:

2x zero zf 75-7 motors
2x sevcon size 6 programmed for zf75-7
2x 14.4kw battery pack
1x audi quattro 1985 diffrential with manual locker
1x street legal gasoline buggy Adly atk 125

lucky for me i could make my own project as a school project, what helped a lot so i could work full time on the crosskart/buggy.
but i would get a budget from school (1000,-) but after some discussing that didn't went through..
but i did manage to find a sponsor that was willing to help with the project!

we measured the old buggy and went to work.
aaMrUva.jpg

original buggy

original buggy

getting an idea for the width
B2nNuV9.jpg

design/drawing the new frame
CfJ4abm.jpg

stress test.
 
after that we started with the tube frame.
the frame is build from 32x2 chromolybdeem tube, used in rally sport for tube frames.
the first idea was to weld and bend the tubes at my workshop. but i fast found out that i want able to bend chromo tube.
due to the stiffness you need a tube bender that folows the bend, a manual bender with a jack didn't work.

so i went to and old school buddy that worked at a frame buildingshop for rally sports. (autocross, dakar, etc.)
he did the bending off the tubes and i did the welding.

T3JOCoI.png

drawing for the bender

4BdQafk.jpg

first tubes, and the left over from the old buggy

at the same time i started with the drive line, how to get 2 motors and 1 diffrential connected?

HKmE82X.jpg

a box full of chain sprockets

rA5oloN.jpg

how do i get a chain drive instead of a belt drive..?

4WS38Tc.jpg

the final product. the alluminum belt sprocket i turned that down to press fit the sprockets, an 4x m6 grade 12 to hold the sprockets in place.
for the turing off the sprockets i made a soft jaw for the lath.

at the same time i did out source the disc brake setup (brakes will be on the diffrential)
i let a friend make these for a box off apple flaps ;)
SmdBMkM.jpg

6ndr1Lf.jpg

ysOpHXd.jpg
 
You can ride that on roads in the Netherlands?
You talking country-side and small townships or within big cities?

I remember seeing quads in the city center, in Penzance England which is where I thought you were from originally, UK. Also the picture showing the van and trailer look Euro, but I missed the plate on the trailer but the country acronym is to blurry.

Apple flaps look delish :wink:
https://www.thespruceeats.com/traditional-dutch-apple-beignets-1128427
That familiar sizzle of fat frying at street stalls.The comforting scent of cinnamon, dough, and baked apples. A snowfall of confectioners' sugar. If winter in the Netherlands could be defined by sights, sounds, and smells, these are what they would be.
 
i have some tricks on hand, the original buggy wil be certified electric.
so the licence plate will have an E (electric) instead of a B (gasoline)

thats a priority because otherwise i wont be insured...
 
SlowCo said:
But why use a lockable differential when you already use 2 motors?

because the motor spins to fast to directly put wheels on it (needs a reduction off +-4:1). so it would need 2 chain drives to axles.
and because 2 now the 2 motors work together and there wont be a diffrence in wheel speeds.
 
If you could lock the motors together you would only need one controller. Here to lock rear end axels the USA racers call it a "spool". Be warned it is hard on tires and axels. some type of ratcheting diff would be better.
 
Spool just means its not welded but acts the exact same way, both sides of the axle are locked together at all times.

Get a ratcheting axle, there are small ones out there but I have no clue how you fabricate a vehicle axle locker to whatever you have. Suzuki has some very small axles.
You could look at what atv's/quads/sidebysides use.


https://www.4wheelparts.ca/b/drivetrain-differential/differentials/automatic-locker/_/N-cm4j1Z1z13vlo?slug%5B0%5D=drivetrain-differential&slug%5B1%5D=differentials&slug%5B2%5D=automatic-locker&slug%5B3%5D=_&slug%5B4%5D=N-cm4j1Z1z13vlo&SNs=sku.display.price_sort%7C0
https://www.4wheelparts.ca/b/drivetrain-differential/differentials/_/N-cm4j1?SNs=sku.display.price_sort%7C0
 
ZeroEm said:
If you could lock the motors together you would only need one controller. Here to lock rear end axels the USA racers call it a "spool". Be warned it is hard on tires and axels. some type of ratcheting diff would be better.

how do you mean? if you put 2 motors together the encoder doesn't "line up" to the other motor... it isnt a dc brushed motor. (no offence) if otherwise possible i would like to know how.

but you can let a sevcon controller "slave" an extra controller. so they work together, thats the next problem i will work out
 
markz said:
Spool just means its not welded but acts the exact same way, both sides of the axle are locked together at all times.

Get a ratcheting axle, there are small ones out there but I have no clue how you fabricate a vehicle axle locker to whatever you have. Suzuki has some very small axles.
You could look at what atv's/quads/sidebysides use.

i did look at can-am/honda side by side diffrentials but most are designed with cvt system system so linear torque curve and not max torque at 0 rpm.
and what i have seen/read a lot of tunners swap out the diffs for aftermaket diffs. because the aren't super strong. :roll:
 
louis raaijmakers said:
i have some tricks on hand, the original buggy wil be certified electric.
so the licence plate will have an E (electric) instead of a B (gasoline)

thats a priority because otherwise i wont be insured...

That would be great if possible. I can't think of any way to do this so would really like to know how.
 
new update :flame:
next up i bought a set of VW caddy 3 wheel bearings to fit the VW golf left hand axles.

also bought a set off second hand rims and some used tires (seconde set of rims) to see if i like the 10 inch set up.
the rims are 4x110mm pitch. the VW caddy hubs are 5x112mm.

time for some welding and some milling.
cKteDfi.jpg


new axles, hubs
DbUjKbv.jpg


1b16MI8.jpg

motor plate design
7Ey1uWz.jpg

motors mounted

the alie express (suzuki drz 400sm) rear brakes, i needed discs that cleared the mounting off the axles to the diff but not in 300mm+ variants. why you may ask? not bigger that 230 otherwis they wont fit in between my diffrential "box"
iy0Wy88.jpg


at the same time i am also working of the front end off the buggy. there isn't a shit load off time so i bought some Yamaha Raptor 700r front A-arms incuding the hubs.
the front rims (4x110) didnt fit the yamaha stud patern (4x156) i have milled out the center to fit the yamaha raptor wheel hubs.

also fitted and balanced the wheels
W8ns2Nk.jpg

2KKWRqA.jpg
 
Here a small update on my corona project that i did in between: a Electric driftrike
pIPXztv.jpg

otMOFOp.jpg

getting the steering colum shorter, so i can reach it from the seat position
wSKyM0u.jpg

also added a 3th battery for better pressure on the front wheel so i get better traction.
sXnWKPq.jpg

Q1AHYqt.jpg

my brother went to a go-kart track where a friend works and asked if they had some old parts. and what did we get?
5 complete disc brake setups, 8 new rains tires, 2 old axles! the mechanic thought it was a great idea and wanted to help. and they where switching to a new kind of electric kart and these parts weren't going to fit anyways. also we can have some track time when it is finished, on the indoor go-kart track!
IJJUdPr.jpg

i made the side battery trays adjustable to get more or less weight on the front wheel, when i tested the trike i moved the batterys to the front and never went back :lol:.
6vtCoP6.jpg

hYi7CbE.jpg

9MYKgmX.jpg

first test drive (solid axle) terribel to steer on clean tarmac witout pe sleves
AO9zXUA.jpg

to fix this is cut the rear axle and added 2 exta bearings, no rear brake just jet i do have them on the shelve.
3E6J5gr.jpg

with the PE sleves lucky me an old friend had a meter left over and they are lasting a few months now without any problems! :thumb: on my old drift trike i used pvc but it didn't last close as long
WflYy7B.jpg

then winter hit and i wanted to drive, so i made a snow chain from old motorcyle chain that i had in the metal bin from my ktm.
a i also made 2 chains for the rear but when i put these on the trike wouldn't drift :roll: to much grip on ice....
EAjOPQl.jpg

fully charged close to 71v running +-5000w atm no issues, if i do constant burnouts/full pulls the motor gets up to +-60/70degrees celsius. i did run it close to 10000w but then my batterys sag quite a bit... also my front tire is gone in a couple of hours. :confused:
VQN1NTR.jpg

this was in on ice on a small lake, no issues close to 6 hours of riding time. 0 problems power was turned back to 4000w due to digging holes in the ice.
AO9zXUA.jpg



so that was my corona build project of last winter just before the buggy build.
the project isn't finished just yet. i want to add dual rear brakes so it also can be used as a "normal" go-kart.
i want to change the motor to a beefer lower voltage (48v instead off 60v) motor so i get more top speed.
because i got torque for enough and some extra speed would be fun if i use it as a go kart. top speed is now +-50kmh
 
SlowCo said:
Where do you find the time to do all these projects? :lol:

corona hit an then i school was online, that didn't work for me.
so i thought what are we going to do now? and there you go, buy a wheel, buy a battery an a controller.
before you know you are in to it :wink:
 
Great work and fun :thumb:
Doing projects like that teaches better/different in some ways then school. So A+ on your report card for practical skills :wink:
 
Are those purchased batteries or did you make those too? Interested in the case that they are in. Looks like nice shape and view window on the top
 
MorbidlyObeseKoala said:
Are those purchased batteries or did you make those too? Interested in the case that they are in. Looks like nice shape and view window on the top

you mean the one on the drift trike? those are Niu batterys 60v 29ah. bought a few complete drive lines from a scooter wrecker in Rotterdam (NL)
 
update,
7oqwlfu.jpg

wheels are bored out to the new diameter, and the holles are redrilled.
ready to be installed
5NTe76N.jpg

eJPZA0K.jpg

chassis adapting
C2wQnzl.jpg

uXwftpj.jpg

wheels first mocked up.
xEkmxZ8.jpg

first chromolybdeem tubes came in (32x2mm), pre-bend due to stiffness off the tube.
WG86Vpq.jpg

first suspension parts turned, nylon bushings and Ktm smcr 690 rear suspension shocks for the rear end.
xiHHtBU.jpg

tubes notched, and in the jig. the jig is made with a lasercutter at school its made from 4mm steel. press fit
gmF55id.jpg

with uniballs, adaptor made from chromoly bar. made for a press fit.
1O9sCbS.jpg


drive line
T79U6hP.jpg

first sprocket made to fit the audi diffrential,2 keyways in sprocket and shaft
also greese fitings for the A-arms and special bolts for the "tensioners"
I9xw7h8.jpg

drive line first installed. still looking for other options. i dont want tension on the idler sprockets, but i would like less bending of the chain.

laser parts are in, 5mm and 8mm plate.
cut to fit as a puzzle,
LCQoxle.jpg

R7O6R10.jpg

Volkwagen caddy 3 hub fitted
cZ7Vv3v.jpg
 
Great work again :thumb:
But why not use 2 separate chains? A double sprocket on the input shaft of the diff and use the slotted holes for the motors to tension the chains. That way you don't lose propulsion when a chain breaks or a motor/controller decides to quit.
 
SlowCo said:
Great work again :thumb:
But why not use 2 separate chains? A double sprocket on the input shaft of the diff and use the slotted holes for the motors to tension the chains. That way you don't lose propulsion when a chain breaks or a motor/controller decides to quit.

good question: now the motors are on the same "plane/level" so a twin chain setup would be difficult.
but maybe that will be a nice upgrade, because i'am doubting if the single chain is capable off the bends at the max rotation speeds.
there i quite some heat getting in there :confused:

the next upgrade would be a new chain setup with 2 420/520 motorcycle chains with an oil bath system.
 
update:
the frame is close to being finished!
t1sePfv.jpg

AmsiFWL.jpg


for the front A-arm i wasn't going to build a new set of arms. due to lack of time and to much complexity.
The front arms, and hubs are from a Yamaha Raptor 700R. the upper arms are aluminum. if they brake i will replace them with chromo tube a-arms.
Y6e6zno.jpg

it was a big issue to align the yamaha front arms to the frame, due to lack of the original frame to copy some dimensions off (sold my raptor 700 a few weeks to early :roll: )
but after some calling is got the dimensions and got some tubes bend up to fix the front end to the frame.

time for a beer, the frame is finished and the first test drives are done :flame: i will try to upload some videos on youtube.
DJYEqJy.jpg
 
and we are back on the build.
i made a jig to hold the front A-arm on the desired place so i could make mounts to hold them.
the laser cutter a school helped my out, that was the last day school was open after that it was closed due to vacation.

rear end assembled, the shocks are from a ktm smcr 690. lots of adjustment in the dampers.
dwUZmAe.jpg


front end put together. sorry i don't have any more detailed pictures the time was my biggest problem atm.
unfortunate the front shocks i orderd didn't fit (nitrogen "box") didn't fit between the A-arms. that why there are steel studs between the front arms because i didnt have any shocks.
28JPODm.jpg


the presentation at school:
714Vww7.jpg

that the moto of life: JUST SEND IT! :p
0vmZMs2.jpg

AeCiRIl.jpg

fist picture from myself (yellow shirt)

jysTvtO.jpg

lots of attention! one off the biggest project of the semester. all competed with some great reactions :thumb:
also did some test driving on the big parking lot. 1 drive line powering it all. and with 3 persons on board it ripped!!
the dual motor setup will be :flame: :flame:

next steps the legal parts of the project.

blinkers, lights, paint, making the 2 motors work together.
but first i am on vacation in Croatia. till soon
CbJEsFh.jpg
 
Back
Top