Building a dangerous deck

Hey everyone.

Some time ago i got my hands on a broken acton blink from a colleague. She said if
i can fix it its mine. After a resolder of the bms on off and the change of the hall sensors in the motor
it runs like a charm. And it got me thinking... Maybe to build my own one day. But monstrous of course

Well after some back and forth i decided to dwelve deeper into the matter.
Battery diy (duh)
spot welders
remotes
possible decks
vescs... and all that good jazz

Now the way i imagine this to work is i just post the stuff i came up with and my thoughts on it. If i have some questions
i will post them too.

• 1 Battery

I want to make a diy battery. Primarily to learn and really know my equipment. To be in full controll if you will.
The "classic" cells seem to be the samsung 18650
https://www.nkon.nl/de/samsung-inr-18650-30q-3000mah.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwocPnBRDFARIsAJJcf952NvKwHHy9y9QW0WD76xc4-rNWbCT40f0-HAhPgtUlDxcl94kBhbMaAng6EALw_wcB
I also saw some good stuff about the Murata / Sony Konion US18650VTC6
https://www.akkuteile.de/lithium-ionen-akkus/18650/sony-konion-us18650vtc6-3120mah-3-6v-3-7v-flat-top-max-30a/a-100680/

For a spotwelder i would get the DIY Arduino Battery Spot Welder Kit V3.3 Full Bundle Car Battery
https://malectrics.eu/product/diy-arduino-battery-spot-welder-kit-v3-2-2-full_bundle_car_battery/
The chinesium ones seem to have some problems i do not want to deal with.(blown up triacs and such)

I would like to run the setup in a 10s4p or 12s4p arrangement without a bms and use a balance charger. As it
seems quite hard to get
a) a good bms within a reasonable price for such a setup and
b) a balance charger that can handle that many cells
i thought up to build 2 5s4p or 6s4p and use a charger like this
https://www.conrad.at/de/p/modellbau-multifunktionsladegeraet-12-v-230-v-10-a-voltcraft-v-charge-200-duo-blei-nimh-nicd-lipo-liion-lihv-blei-1539603.html
It is supposed to crank out 10amps which should result in a 12h charging time for10s4p and 14,4h for 12s4p.
I want to build the batteries flat and in one line. a xt90s connector with a loop between the two for a cutoff.
I would solder a second cable pair with xt60 on the end (or whatever the charger accepts) onto each of
them to be able to charge while the batteries rest inside the enclosure.

• 2 Motors and ESC

The motors give me some headache. I would like to run some sort of direct drive or Hub Motors.
I am drwan to the new torqurboard direct drives with some big ass wheels.https://diyelectricskateboard.com/products/torqueboards-direct-drive-motor-kit
My question: Are they worth the hundreds of euros or dollars more over setups like this?
https://wowgoboard.com/collections/new-theme/products/hub-motor-90mm
Powerwise they claim to suck up to 4000W each and the cheaper ones 500W. Are these fluctuations
just because there is no real way to rate the power of an e-motor or is there something else going on? (like better heat dissipation on the direct drive...)

The ESC would be a VESC. A Flipsky Dual FSESC6.6
https://flipsky.net/collections/new-accessories/products/dual-fsesc6-6-based-upon-vesc6-with-aluminum-heatsink

• 3 Deck

I found some downhill decks that seem ok for the job. If someone knows something else to consider pleas e tell me.
https://www.mantis-longboardshop.de/Longboard-Decks/Downhill-Freeride-Deck-Only/DB-LONGBOARDS-Flagship-Lunch-Tray-36-5-Deck::149486.html?XTCsid=badc5fb7292bbb6885a748264074bc65

• 4 Remote

After ereading Esk8 Remotes: Garbage or Greatness! and realising the good ones are sold out i woiuld like to build my own
from a GT2B. I got a 3d printer and the files for the modded case are up everywhere.

I guess thats pretty much it for most of the parts and plans
roast me i guess :wink:

If you plan to make just one battery you better buy a commercial one. If you want to learn how to do it arduino spot welders are good for that task.
Best bang for the buck is Samsung 30q right now.
If you want more quality Sony vtc5a have a great price.
Use a good bms. I use smart bms lately. You can tweak a lot of things and skip voltmeter.
Bestechpower makes good bms' with e-switch so you can skip antispark or loop for on/off
Balancing cells could be a pain in the ass depending on the enclosure you are gonna use.
I would make the battery as simple as possible. Complicated setups end up being troublesome.
Yes. Direct drives with big wheels are far superior to motorhubs (in most cases)and you can swap wheels easily.
The fsesc plus is more advanced. Worth the cash. The switch can't be trusted though. Seems fets fail.
That deck looks optimal and gt2b modded seems to be the favorite of many people. I like maytech.
Well that's my personal opinion. Hope it helps

Hi rojitor
Fist of all: Thanks for the reply!

Do you have a site for the vtc5as? The vtc6as are too marginally more expensive to get the 5 on mine.

For the battery setup: How long would be the charge time when using a bms and a laptop charger?
The first time i was getting into bms i would have chosen something like this.
https://buildkitboards.com/products/bestech-bms# (also some customisation options)
Theoretically it can just handle the current outout of my 10s4p suggestion.


My idea without the bms is somwhat hard to eplain. So i drew a picture with my 1337 paint skillz.(I did not paint in the balancer cables to not get tooooo messy.)

https://eu.nkon.nl/catalogsearch/result/?q=Vtc5a
If you are outside EU use .ru site

Maybe Michal (tumich) from this forum has them refurbished.
The common charge for li ion is 0.5c
10s4p 30q= 12ah good up to 6amps charger
10s4p vtc5a=10.4ah good up to 5 amps charger
You can fully charge in 2 hours. I use Jack connectors 5.5mm X 2.1mm they are rated for 4 amps. 4 Amps chargers are way cheaper. 2-3 hours charge time. You can find waterproof plugs easily.
I love bmsless solutions and balance them myself but I think they are painful on a esk8. Bms makes things easier. Enclosures are in the way.