Belt drive alternative?

Tigerpolis

1 mW
Joined
Jul 25, 2014
Messages
10
Hey everyone!

Are there any good alternatives to the common belt drive? Is it possible to have a rubber pulley on the motor that touches the wheel, or won't there be enough friction? Maybe small stones etc can get stuck between! Cogs usually make more sound right? Do you have any ideas?

ciao
 
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1523841941/cityspur-electric-longboard-a-true-freewheeling-ex?ref=discovery

EDIT: Im not saying its good though :)
 
Pediglide said:
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1523841941/cityspur-electric-longboard-a-true-freewheeling-ex?ref=discovery

EDIT: Im not saying its good though :)

Maybe like ten years ago! These guys need to get out more and look around.
 
Well with chains you have the same disadvantages as belt drive, but i guess like you torqueboard is saying, it is the easiest way to do it! But say if one would machine all the parts from the beginning, what would be the most efficient and foolproof way to do it?
What about converting a outrunner to a small hub motor? I guess i will have to find a motor around 150KV for that? Or wound my own stator! Something around 100mm wheels, like this one: http://www.etotheipiplusone.net/pics/sc4/sc4_68.jpg
 
lone_deranger said:
Tigerpolis said:
But say if one would machine all the parts from the beginning, what would be the most efficient and foolproof way to do it?
If you have the skills and access to tools then something along these lines maybe...http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=49557

Thanks for the link! Yeah like that but a bit bigger wheels and the motors inside the wheels so they are more protected!
I have access to several big workshops at the university!
 
Tigerpolis said:
Yeah like that but a bit bigger wheels and the motors inside the wheels so they are more protected!
I have access to several big workshops at the university!
Did you read through to the end of the thread? In the latest version Justin was using 83mm Centrax.
 
lone_deranger said:
Did you read through to the end of the thread? In the latest version Justin was using 83mm Centrax.

Yeah that def looks better! I think i will buy some cheap outrunners and try the concept! :)
 
I believe hub motors (and weight sensing) to be the holy grail for commuter e-boards. If correctly applied it should be a more efficient solution than geared drives, allow more natural coasting and look more stealth to boot. Skateboards are susceptible to immense vibration and the load on the motor's bearings as the shaft is only supported on one side seem to be the main hurdles.
Good luck, you've got my attention!
 
lone_deranger said:
I believe hub motors (and weight sensing) to be the holy grail for commuter e-boards. If correctly applied it should be a more efficient solution than geared drives, allow more natural coasting and look more stealth to boot. Skateboards are susceptible to immense vibration and the load on the motor's bearings as the shaft is only supported on one side seem to be the main hurdles.
Good luck, you've got my attention!

Me too! I will try to do something like this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pH-52IgJui8, but on a much smaller scale and then cast my own PU wheel around it, or find a tube with the right dimensions and hardness.
 
im on the quest myself and it's been a long time coming but I should be finally trying it on Monday when I get bearings that it'll need. Ill write up how it goes then. Been holding off my talk for real action first. It's more so with the motor can butted up against the wheel instead of in the wheel. I'd read that being in the wheel would subject it to possibly too much vibration but who knows...not much to loosen up or vibrate anyway.

I used the end of the truck axle as both the wheel support, which it normally does, and to hold a floating axle for the motor shaft...simply a tube with bearings bolted to the can that holds it in place. the metal piece i made also has prongs for an abec11 so no mounting bolts are needed other than the final nylon bolt which I dig. I started this because after getting enough pulleys and motors for 3 boards I was having trouble getting a motor mount made or even bought and decided this would simplify things. still dont have a traditional motor mount since every time I can get on the cad cnc machine it fails ever since I got this piece done so...I'm going this way. it's just soft aluminum but if it goes I'll get some cast in steel.

I didnt rewind a motor and am hoping it can be just reterminated Y instead of having to totally rewind but cant find out. If you know? I'll be using a 210kv just to see if it works so no hills. I found that a 50mm motor (scorpion something) can be wound all the way down to just over 40kv so I'll probably go with two of those. Seems with the low kv you need to have more material since the windings are so thin and will be less able to take the heat generated by the amps....and the amps are what you'll need to get the torque. low kv motors dont have more torque but more torque per amp
 
Hummina Shadeeba said:
im on the quest myself and it's been a long time coming but I should be finally trying it on Monday when I get bearings that it'll need. Ill write up how it goes then. Been holding off my talk for real action first. It's more so with the motor can butted up against the wheel instead of in the wheel. I'd read that being in the wheel would subject it to possibly too much vibration but who knows...not much to loosen up or vibrate anyway.

I used the end of the truck axle as both the wheel support, which it normally does, and to hold a floating axle for the motor shaft...simply a tube with bearings bolted to the can that holds it in place. the metal piece i made also has prongs for an abec11 so no mounting bolts are needed other than the final nylon bolt which I dig. I started this because after getting enough pulleys and motors for 3 boards I was having trouble getting a motor mount made or even bought and decided this would simplify things. still dont have a traditional motor mount since every time I can get on the cad cnc machine it fails ever since I got this piece done so...I'm going this way. it's just soft aluminum but if it goes I'll get some cast in steel.

I didnt rewind a motor and am hoping it can be just reterminated Y instead of having to totally rewind but cant find out. If you know? I'll be using a 210kv just to see if it works so no hills. I found that a 50mm motor (scorpion something) can be wound all the way down to just over 40kv so I'll probably go with two of those. Seems with the low kv you need to have more material since the windings are so thin and will be less able to take the heat generated by the amps....and the amps are what you'll need to get the torque. low kv motors dont have more torque but more torque per amp

I'm really excited to see how this turns out! So hurry up :lol:
 
Hummina Shadeeba said:
im on the quest myself and it's been a long time coming but I should be finally trying it on Monday when I get bearings that it'll need. Ill write up how it goes then. Been holding off my talk for real action first. It's more so with the motor can butted up against the wheel instead of in the wheel. I'd read that being in the wheel would subject it to possibly too much vibration but who knows...not much to loosen up or vibrate anyway.

I used the end of the truck axle as both the wheel support, which it normally does, and to hold a floating axle for the motor shaft...simply a tube with bearings bolted to the can that holds it in place. the metal piece i made also has prongs for an abec11 so no mounting bolts are needed other than the final nylon bolt which I dig. I started this because after getting enough pulleys and motors for 3 boards I was having trouble getting a motor mount made or even bought and decided this would simplify things. still dont have a traditional motor mount since every time I can get on the cad cnc machine it fails ever since I got this piece done so...I'm going this way. it's just soft aluminum but if it goes I'll get some cast in steel.

I didnt rewind a motor and am hoping it can be just reterminated Y instead of having to totally rewind but cant find out. If you know? I'll be using a 210kv just to see if it works so no hills. I found that a 50mm motor (scorpion something) can be wound all the way down to just over 40kv so I'll probably go with two of those. Seems with the low kv you need to have more material since the windings are so thin and will be less able to take the heat generated by the amps....and the amps are what you'll need to get the torque. low kv motors dont have more torque but more torque per amp


Nice to hear! Please post some pics!
I was also thinking about reterminate a NTM 50-60 to Y configuration and see of that will produce enough torque, otherwise i will try the planet gear approach! As long as it's easy to access the stator wires there should be no problem to change to Y config! Where dd you find out about the scorpion motor?
 
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