Razor e300 ultra. Technical guide

Ianhill

1 MW
Joined
Sep 25, 2015
Messages
2,871
In this build I will take a razor e300 and transform it s ancient design completely into the modern age with lots of hacks but no bodges. I will tackle it stage by stage and show what I'm doing and the method to my madness with some pictures and technical info and answering any questions that's thrown my way.

First up handlebars and headset .

The stock razor 31.8mm mild steel bars and threaded headset utilizing caged bearings, it does the job for a basic ride up to 30mph but we want to go well beyond that.
IMG_20181201_152814279.jpg
So some digging around looking into stunt scooters reveals that the 1 1/8 bearing cup is still widely used but its a threadless mountain bike headset with cartridge type bearing.
View attachment 2
IMG_20181201_152229262.jpg
The stunt scooters use 3 main differing clamp options the one I'm interested in is a SCS clamp as shown below as it's the strongest of the lot.
_IMG_000000_000000.jpg
There's also two handlebar thicknesses stock there is 31.8mm and then there is an oversized 34.9mm both come in alloy, mild steel, chromium and titanuim all have various benefits but the chromium is the best bet for price, good strength and longevity.
View attachment 3
Then comes the SCS clamp itself these have varying levels of strength and width most are set for the oversized bars and use a sleeve reduction for the 31.8mm narrow bars some have 4 × 5mm bolts and better ones have 4× 8mm bolts.

I can use the stock fork from the razor and cut it to length and fit a star nut inside to match the SCS image and clamp it all together with oversized chromium bars and that then is the handlebar section strong as it possibly can be.

All the parts I've shown I've ordered so this is an actual build taking place and I'll have my own photos as I go along, I'm undecided on going dual hub 7kw or single 3.5kw at the moment but I've ordered one so it's gonna happen at least so I'll finalize all that once I see one hub in hand and look around the front fork for inspiration as it will need to be 40mm or so wider, the rear is fine so I'll see how much trouble I want to make it and how well it performs with just the rear as it will be crazy light compared to it's bigger brothers of 40kg +, this will be around half their weight even less with a single hub and Lipo 20kg will be the upper limit.
 
cheapcookie said:
Nice! I am looking forward to this thread. :bigthumb:

Cheers hopefully it turns out beast.
I got myself a different clamp in the end I had a change of mind the original was 6061 alloy but this one is 7075 that is more rigid and suitable as a clamp and it still has the 8mm bolts too.
_IMG_000000_000000.jpg

I got some camouflage grip tape for the deck and a decent set of grips but I'm still waiting for the 1600w nominal hub too clear postage on aliexpress then it's 20-40 days post so gonna be 2019 till this one sees some serious riding again.
IMG_20181201_151950948.jpg
IMG_20181128_082431856.jpg
 
I got my grip tape today so I got that fitted I don't think I needed to show a how to it's just a taredown handfile and a knife then reassemble.

Still not heard from the motor seller less than 2 days now till it's a failed transaction.
 
Nice grip tape easy little mod. Sucks about motor though good luck. And if you have any idea of controllers maybe you can give some insight as to how I fix my cheap controller and modify for more volts
 
Fastassmotors said:
Nice grip tape easy little mod. Sucks about motor though good luck. And if you have any idea of controllers maybe you can give some insight as to how I fix my cheap controller and modify for more volts

Electric god is your man for a bit of controller modding what's your issue any pics ?
I'll get a motor one way or another I got money and someone in shanghi will want it.

Glued my razor grip tape on top of the cammo looks beast and hides the fold mark the seller of the cammo put on it in an envelope not a tube.
_IMG_000000_000000.jpg
 
Nice work that really looks good. And my thread is just posted with a bunch of pics I'll try and see if electric can help too
 
Parts slowly rolling in, got my grips and bars today i had to cut the bars for SCS use but its no big problem the manufacturer states they can be used in this way.
IMG_20181206_172421995.jpg
I've got a set of a set of floating rotors for a mountain bike 6 bolt fitment and the hub motor im getting will use the same mount, but my other wheels and hubs don't so I'm going to make a hub simular to the one below from scratch for the wheel I've also shown below.
IMG_20181206_173040253.jpg
_IMG_000000_000000.jpg
I've done a bit of designing around the fork and available parts that I can get of a shelf and I've come up with the idea of using a mtb 12×142mm rear thru axle for the front wheel, with 6001zz ceramic hybrid bearings sat in a custom lathe'd out hub that ill have to get a bit of stock alu and have my local turn it out, there's a few critical dimensions I've got below now i just got to work out the lengths then get it on the computer and some time next week hopefully that will get done and I can start on the fork get the front end finished before the rear hub turns up.
IMG_20181206_172439150.jpg
 
I received my threadless headset today so I set about fitting it, the fork needed 8mm trimmed off the top for the clamping mechanism to work and the star nut is tight to fit but it does go. One thing I've noticed is most razor e300 versions vary the fork lengths aswell as the headtube but the amount that sticks out is always the same so all the razor forks would need a slight trim to go threadless and SCS clamp, the later grey models are best the headtube is longer so there is more strength in the area and no folding handle bars from stock.
IMG_20181207_152343557.jpg
Below you can see the lip with the fork cut to size and the clamp sits at the correct height, before the fork is cut it's above the inner line so there's no bearing preload when the centre nut and cap is tightened.
IMG_20181207_152330862.jpg
Below is a picture with the clamp fitted and holding the fork on and then the complete front, I can confirm that the setup feels rigid by manualing on the spot but the proof will be when it's riden in anger and I give her wa.
View attachment 3
_IMG_000000_000000.jpg
I've also changed the design of the hub I'll go through a few versions on paper I suppose till im happy but ive decided to use a different bearing setup im going with a 3201zz they are heavy duty double row angular bearing so there's more strength to side loading when turning, high end mountain bikes use a 4 bearing setup that would put more cost into my part and complexity so this is a happy medium.
View attachment 1
 
Fastassmotors said:
Now thumb throttle I'm guessing definitely not a twist going on there :lol:

Thumb throttle for life, I'll have a push button on the other side to flip the throttle into a varible regen switch and ill have my brake levers ill try keep the cockpit bare and tidy as i can.
 
Ianhill said:
Fastassmotors said:
Now thumb throttle I'm guessing definitely not a twist going on there :lol:

Thumb throttle for life, I'll have a push button on the other side to flip the throttle into a varible regen switch and ill have my brake levers ill try keep the cockpit bare and tidy as i can.

Sounds badass
 
I didn't know something like those split wheels was available, what a brilliant idea. I have changed many flat tires in my life, and having that would have been awesome.

file.php
 
spinningmagnets said:
I didn't know something like those split wheels was available, what a brilliant idea. I have changed many flat tires in my life, and having that would have been awesome.

It's only by luck I found them I searched for dualtron hub after seeing the 50mph razor thread and these seem a good way of utilizing the space available so I can get more batterys in the tray and increase range.

I just got myself a 2017 kuberg freerider pro and researching it I found your electric bike review of them top work Mr magnets great help :bigthumb:
 
tahitiboob said:
hello great mounting I also have a razor e300 I also wanted to upgrade but put 2 engine keep the rear and put a front with a fork like this

https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/Haut...?spm=a2g0w.10010108.1000023.12.6e5182bfi2fHC0

Good idea I've seen that front end, what concerned me is if the motors KV is the simular, if they are far apart then the rear hub at full speed on 48v may force the front motor to generate a higher voltage under regen and blow the controller but it's feesable if you find out whats what and work it out I know the hub I got is 33.3kv so have a dig see what specs you can find on the front setup by the looks it's 45kmh at 48v so it would be lower so your ok on blowing a controller but after a certain speed it will be dead weight no more torque to give.
 
Got my motor in post yesterday so I took it apart give it an inspection and went about fitting it to the scooter, The razor is compact and the motor takes up the full width of the frame I had to dremil out the dropout on one side of the frame and use a torque arm so I could get it to fit and all locked down securely.
View attachment 3
View attachment 2
I used a 140mm disc on the rear and made a bracket so I could bolt direct to the frame for ease of fitment, if anyone would like more info/ detailed pics by all means ask away.
IMG_20190103_161849395.jpg
_IMG_000000_000000.jpg
Oh bad news too my front wheel got lost in post so I need a new front wheel damn postal service so I've had a refund and planning my next move.
 
Smoke said:
That's looking pretty cool, good luck.

Cheers smoke I'll keep doing a few updates as I go, i weighed it and its at 14.2kg and I've got a controller front wheel and batterys to add so the total weight will be around 21kg just a little over target but being mostly steel and running a hub motor and they tend to be heavy so I'll cut it some slack I'm just glad I've managed to find a suitable direct drive hub with enough grunt to please me and get all the supporting parts packaged fairly tight.
 
It looks pretty lean to me. There is only so much you can do about weight without taking away features or strength and it seems close to that point.
 
Smoke said:
It looks pretty lean to me. There is only so much you can do about weight without taking away features or strength and it seems close to that point.

I could of used alu bars but I've seen so many snapped bars vids on the tube that I thought id rather not die just yet, I had stock folding bars fold at 30mph and that was fun luckily I surfed it out I've seen a compound fracture from a crash with a car on one of these so I tend to be a little over cautious.
 
_IMG_000000_000000.jpg
IMG_20190113_130917257.jpg

Not got much done on the scooter, I got a kuberg freerider just before xmas in need of some love well many late nights into a complete nut and bolt rebuild cleaning it all and giving it new serviceable items such as bearings and breaks pads etc it back to life and running smooth.
I thought I paid low on this ride but after all the work I've put in I think it was a fair deal but I'm happy now it's complete it's my new top toy.
I'll resume with the scooter next week some time now I've got the controller and batterys so I'll sort the electrics out while I source a decent quality minimoto front wheel.
 
_IMG_000000_000000.jpg
Got a plan for my front wheel in progress so I'll report back with that soon.

Next is the frame pictured above the original battery box is wasting space to the rear where the motor once was, so I'm going to make a new metal battery box that extends back close to the wheel as outlined in orange, I will have to remove the kick stand and the centre cross bar and use tabs with captive nuts on the battery box to pick up the deck fasteners that will be lost with the cross bar being cut out to allow the larger box to drop into the frame.

Underneath the battery box is round bar that adds some rigidity and acts as a skid plate for protection, so I will cut them off and make some new ones longer that does the same thing and on top of the deck there is a plate that runs the full length of the battery box as a brace for the centre of the deck so again I'll make another one to accommodate the larger length.

The only difference to the eye will be it's a longer box made of 2mm mild metal with the centre tabs revealed when the deck is removed, it gives me enough room to fit 20ah of Lipo and place the controller internal out of harms ways but still have the heat fins open to air that flows under the box through a cut out in the bottom for the fins of the controller to be revealed to the passing underside air stream while keeping the controller sealed from elements.

The flipsky vesc 6.6 that I'm using can be installed just like I explained ive placed it in the photo so you can see i can mount it from underneath with its locating bolts and have the fins exposed while being in contact with a large amount of steel(alloy would be best ill price it up and see what can be done on the cheap as stock its only plastic.), I will have to extend its antispark on off switch to the battery box exterior so I can turn on and off with the deck lid in place, and sort out bms placement and a charger port but with the extra space I'm spoiled for choice.
 
it is a beautiful Christmas present that you had
I am waiting for the engine to modify my scooter I am your post with attention to do the same thing

it's top I would also make photos of mine she is for the moment all original
 
tahitiboob said:
it is a beautiful Christmas present that you had
I am waiting for the engine to modify my scooter I am your post with attention to do the same thing

it's top I would also make photos of mine she is for the moment all original

There's a sad story behind the kuberg I had it second hand in desperate need for help, I only had the money due to my missus having a second misscarage so what had been squirreled away was useless just sat there and I needed to cheer myself up so I'm building away and I'll take her for a holiday soon somewhere special.

Keep following I'll get to the end soon best of luck with your build too.
 
Back
Top