TDPro Cheap 36v Controller 800w Modding to 70v

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Jul 9, 2018
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I'm basically modding this cheap YK31C to handle up to 70v safely. I heard I'm gonna have to do the power rails too can someone tell me what that is and what to get. I am going to use 100v 88a or 96a infineon mosfets and 80v 470uf capacitor. This should be good enough. All replys welcome I want you guys to help me with what I need the parts.
 
Mmm a brushed motor controller beware they fail in full throttle mode when a fet dies like you found out i suppose as two of them fets gates are blown its proberly ruined the driver too, I used a 12-48v 60amp board from china with 12fets on it 6 for each side of the bridge and I think the yk uses 4 or 2 for each side so it's not gonna do much for you to fix now that half the bridge is dead, what's the motor your running at 70v ? I shoved the stock motor on the 48v 60amp board and within 10 seconds I had a cloud of smoke behind me and a fryed motor the my1016 is super fragilelistic but I had a my1020 36v running 48v 60amp and that thing was a tank climb Everest and warm your hands on it at the top too maybe cook a bacon sandwich on it aswell.
 
Ianhill said:
Mmm a brushed motor controller beware they fail in full throttle mode when a fet dies like you found out i suppose as two of them fets gates are blown its proberly ruined the driver too, I used a 12-48v 60amp board from china with 12fets on it 6 for each side of the bridge and I think the yk uses 4 or 2 for each side so it's not gonna do much for you to fix now that half the bridge is dead, what's the motor your running at 70v ? I shoved the stock motor on the 48v 60amp board and within 10 seconds I had a cloud of smoke behind me and a fryed motor the my1016 is super fragilelistic but I had a my1020 36v running 48v 60amp and that thing was a tank climb Everest and warm your hands on it at the top too maybe cook a bacon sandwich on it aswell.

My1020 36v 800w this baby been pushing really good for her size and I tried going 67v after running 50 and I wanted to break 30mph but I frocked the controller up. It was halling a total of 190ish pounds good I'm light and scooter is very light so I could've hit 40 under ideal conditions. It surprisingly didn't go in full throttle mode like everyone was saying I was worried it would take the hell off but it just popped and stopped. I didn't even go more then 2 feet lol. After I saw 50v caps I was like damn I was really pushing it no way that would've worked. So about the drivers and stuff there are 5 mosfets. If I replaced them with higher voltage same amperage ones and replaced the Caps with higher voltage same capacity it still wouldn't work? This was what I was worried about and didn't order all the new parts yet because of this reason lol. Always better to check first.
 
It just blew the copper off the traces like a fuse. Needs more copper there.

I was seriously injured when the brushed motor controller on my old Zappy shorted and stuck on full throttle. I even had a contactor and kill switch on the handlebars but I was too slow to hit it. The only good way around this is to use a throttle with an integrated contactor switch (like Domino) that will open the contactor anytime the throttle is returned to zero. Golf cars use this setup.

I just gave up brushed motors at that point and went strictly brushless as this failure mode can't happen with a brushless motor.
 
fechter said:
It just blew the copper off the traces like a fuse. Needs more copper there.

I was seriously injured when the brushed motor controller on my old Zappy shorted and stuck on full throttle. I even had a contactor and kill switch on the handlebars but I was too slow to hit it. The only good way around this is to use a throttle with an integrated contactor switch (like Domino) that will open the contactor anytime the throttle is returned to zero. Golf cars use this setup.

I just gave up brushed motors at that point and went strictly brushless as this failure mode can't happen with a brushless motor.

My caps are only 50v there's no way I need to upgrade this stuff
 
I had a yk31c fail in full throttle mode but I just rode it home heavy on the breaks lucky I swap the drum out and add a front break or I'd been stuffed.

I sold my old razor with the my1020 and the guy drove it down the road with cars and got hit off he had a compound fracture of his leg and it looked like bbq spare ribs everywhere, a small slow scooter is dangerous when u got cars around you overtaking all time, it's like having a lamb running round in the bull ring just no hope. So I always play safe and avoid the roads completely if I can, that's why I liked my brushless scooter because it done 48mph if I did go on road it would only be a short distant rural in a 30 zone so It had no issues keeping up with flow i could even keep the white van man away from the rear.

I done that build for under £400 all in so maybe try find a second hand 48v 1600w scooter for cheap and put your Lipo in there with a cheap 48-72v 1500w sunwin controller they pump out 3.4kw on high stock, solder the stunt up just a smidgine and its kicking out 4.4kw and then I got 48mph.

I've heard from my motor seller now so you could order a hub it's cost me £180 to the UK and I'm gonna run it with a flipsky 6.6 vesc at 12s that's another £135 plus batterys but I got them already they cost me £240 for 6× 4s 10000mah graphene black cells they are not that energy dense the multistar packs are smaller and cheaper but the discharge current is lacking specially in colder weather and they max out at 60amps the graphenes do 150amps and I've done 65amp for a full discharge with no heating issues at all but really I'd say 18650 route is the best for density and safety but not so much cost.
 
Ianhill said:
I had a yk31c fail in full throttle mode but I just rode it home heavy on the breaks lucky I swap the drum out and add a front break or I'd been stuffed.

I sold my old razor with the my1020 and the guy drove it down the road with cars and got hit off he had a compound fracture of his leg and it looked like bbq spare ribs everywhere, a small slow scooter is dangerous when u got cars around you overtaking all time, it's like having a lamb running round in the bull ring just no hope. So I always play safe and avoid the roads completely if I can, that's why I liked my brushless scooter because it done 48mph if I did go on road it would only be a short distant rural in a 30 zone so It had no issues keeping up with flow i could even keep the white van man away from the rear.

I done that build for under £400 all in so maybe try find a second hand 48v 1600w scooter for cheap and put your Lipo in there with a cheap 48-72v 1500w sunwin controller they pump out 3.4kw on high stock, solder the stunt up just a smidgine and its kicking out 4.4kw and then I got 48mph.

I've heard from my motor seller now so you could order a hub it's cost me £180 to the UK and I'm gonna run it with a flipsky 6.6 vesc at 12s that's another £135 plus batterys but I got them already they cost me £240 for 6× 4s 10000mah graphene black cells they are not that energy dense the multistar packs are smaller and cheaper but the discharge current is lacking specially in colder weather and they max out at 60amps the graphenes do 150amps and I've done 65amp for a full discharge with no heating issues at all but really I'd say 18650 route is the best for density and safety but not so much cost.

That sounds brutal. Damn. But I really am just messing around I wanna upgrade mosfets and caps and whatever is broke I suspect I could hit 35 with gooood acceleration. I have a 36v 800w big scooter I might motor swap to 2000w 60v idk. I'm mostly focusing on my mx650 going 120mph I have to find a good ass motor for it.
 
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