100pies13 said:
I measure the watts with the lcd
Ok. That is dependent on the system working correctly, which it isn't, so it is possible that reading is not accurate (cant' know without comparing to non-integrated meter readings). An external wattmeter that goes between battery and controller would give correct readings even if the system itself cant' for some reason. You probably don't need one right now, but they do come in handy for testing.
It started to become wrong probabily since a strong rain........ But It wroked fine for 2 months since then.
Even though it has been that long, it is likely still related, probably corrosion inside the drive housing in the electronics, or inside a connector or cable (where you can't see it).
Sometimes unplugging each connector, one at a time, examining it carefully in good light for any water intrusion or corrosion, and then plugging it back in, a few times each, may clean such corrosion from connector contacts (pins), but this doesn't always work even if that is what is wrong. But it generally doesn't hurt and is the easiest first thing to try.
If the water did get into the drive housing, and seeped into the electronics, it might have caused a problem with one of the shunt resistors. If there are two, and one no longer makes connection, then it would cut power in half as you see. The controllers should be potted against water, but this is not always done perfectly and so water can intrude between the potting and the PCB (which is where the shunts are). This is a pic of one version of a BBSxx controller puck, showing the two black rectangular shunt resistors, with what may be corrosion on the board around the general area:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=83778&p=1627276#p1627254