Displays and controllers are not generally inter-compatible, as there is no one standard. Unless the controller you have is specified to work with the display you have, they're unlikely to work together (even if the wiring is the same, which may not be the case, the "language" they speak may be different).
Some controllers work with a number of displays, and vice-versa...but this is not generally the case, so if an ad for one doesn't specify it's compatibility with the other bit you want to use it with, it would be safer to assume it doesn't work with it.
There are also different versions of what appear to be the same display, or the same controller, that do not have the same settings, info, or other features available. So you can have what appears to be compatible that still won't let you change a setting you need (or even see it, sometimes), or won't perform a function you need.
If the place that sold you the controller also sells a known-compatible display, taht would be the one I would recommend getting to ensure compatibility.
The voltage is probably read by the display itself from the battery voltage that is supplied to it, so that's why that works, and as long as the wiring is the same most of the displays will still engage the same "keyswitch / ignition" wire from the controller, connecting it to battery voltage, when the display's power button is used.
PAS isn't a display issue generally, that would be up to whether the controller is compatible with the PAS sensor you're using (or any PAS--not all controllers can use one or even have a connector for one), and is programmed and setup to respond to it.
If the controller *is* compatible with PAS, but is not by default setup for it, then you'd have to use a compatible display to change it's settings appropriately, or program it via a computer (usually using a USB-serial cable and a program that is specific to that controller, if available (most controllers do not have a setup program available).