melted phaserunner xt60

Shitty. Poor connection, causing increased resistance, causing heat, resulting in that mess. I always try to use the 80% rule when dealing with electronics. That is to say, only use 80% of it's rated capacity maximum..

I'd tear it apart, solder the thickest wire you can to the controller pads, then use an xt90 at a minimum. 8mm bullets are even better. If those melt you dun effed up.

looks like theyre only open tues to friday
i think its time to do some surgery and see if i can fix this

XT90 are the way to go, I just find them easier to solder then XT60.

There should be lots of RC stores near you to buy those connectors from.
They are way more expensive there then online (Hobbyking), I paid $15 for one set. I can buy a set of 5 for $8 at Hobbyking, but have to wait for them to arrive. Silicone wire is the same, can't find silicone wire anywhere else then RC stores. My local B2B store in the industrial park has Molex and PP's with a somewhat flexible wire but not close to silicone wire.

You could try to find a store like this https://www.be-electronics.com/ in your area. Type in electronics in Google doesnt help.
Electronic Supply is the keywords I used for Google maps to find this in Burnaby.
https://www.rpelectronics.com/
Search connector comes up with 10 pages.

had to go to home depot for some doo-dads
bought 12 gauge solid core copper wire

thinking of drilling the the phaserunner xt60 pin with a 3/32" bit
soldering the 12 gauge to the pin
then soldering xt90 to the 12 gauge

ill have to keep the pin sticking up so the heat doesnt go inside the PR

probably chop open the female xt60 to use the barrel over the pin while drilling and soldering













depth of hole is about 5/16

do the other one





shielding back on



shrink



now the xt90

steady red, good to go

smoke some rubber

Some fun times you've been having

goatman said:

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Solid copper conductors ... now that is just plain cheating

markz said:

Some fun times you've been having

goatman said:

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Click to expand...

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no problems
only solutions
speaking of which
when you coming to Vancouver?
do you live near Cochrane?
i need a pack mule

I just melted mine today for the first time. I was running 1500W peak, 30A peak from the battery. It still functions, but the XT60 is stuck to the Phaserunner and is going to require hundreds of pounds of force to get it loose because I could not pull it loose. I have more than 10,000 miles on it since installing it in January of this year. I'm glad to know it's repairable. I'm probably going to dial it back to 8A battery and 350W from now on. I've noticed that 250W regen tends to make it heat up fast, while running it at 1500W for acceleration does not.

I'll repair it, and then upgrade to something that can take the amps. I eventually plan to run my project at 7+ kW, and the Phaserunner is proving inadequate to even think about it.

nucular 12f is what id like to get my hands on

regen, i swear if i use regen it puts it into thermal rollback, i think it drives heat into the pr but accellerated sends it back to the motor, endothermal/exothermal, dont really know but somethings going on

Just go for the 24f. It's better to have too much and not need it than to not have enough and be left wanting for more. It's a little more expensive, but it's tiny for a 24f controller. No ragrets.

Can the Nucular 24f be made to quickly and easily work with a Cycle Analyst v3 instead of its own proprietary display? I really like using a torque sensor as a throttle and do not want to be dependent upon a thumb or twist throttle. I could care less how neat a display looks.

I finally got the melted connectors between the battery cable and the controller terminal separated. It wasn't the plastic that melted. Surprisingly, it was the copper terminals themselves that welded together in limited spots, and they had corrosion. I've been riding this vehicle in all weather conditions, including hundreds of hours of operation in the rain, so I'm not at all surprised by this in retrospect, but I had thought the plastic itself was melted, and I'm surprised that the plastic around the copper wasn't the culprit. The controller was almost hot enough to boil water yesterday.

Looks like my controller is completely salvageable, with just a bit of cleaning. It still works just fine.

by The Toecutter » Sep 06 2021 3:38pm

Can the Nucular 24f be made to quickly and easily work with a Cycle Analyst v3 instead of its own proprietary display? I really like using a torque sensor as a throttle and do not want to be dependent upon a thumb or twist throttle. I could care less how neat a display looks.

I finally got the melted connectors between the battery cable and the controller separated. It wasn't the plastic that melted. Surprisingly, it was the copper terminals themselves that welded together in limited spots, and they had corrosion. I've been riding this vehicle in all weather conditions, including hundreds of hours of operation in the rain, so I'm not at all surprised by this. I'm surprised that the plastic around the copper wasn't melted. The controller was almost hot enough to boil water yesterday.

Looks like my controller is completely salvageable, with just a bit of cleaning. It still works just fine.

Click to expand...

That is great news. Was wondering about the phaserunner from all the post of late.

Most of the damage seems contained to the XT60 male end on the harness that contains two 40A Anderson powerpole connectors on the battery side and the XT60 on the controller side. The XT60 female in the controller is intact very well.

You don't need a CA for the Nucular, it works with torque sensors natively

"Wide types of input, configurable: 0-5V brake, switch brake, 0-5V throttle, torque pedal sensor, pedal-assist sensor"

Now my Phaserunner likes to spark and shut off at random. It started after I unintentionally hit a racoon yesterday as it ran out in front of me. I had no time to react to it. I was moving at 40 mph, ramped 2 feet into the air off of it, almost flipped, and landed hard on one wheel. It knocked the XT60 a bit loose, it sparked, and the CA3 shut off. The plastic that houses the insert on the controller for the XT60 was slightly warped from the previously mentioned incident in this topic where the XT60 welded itself to the connector pins on the Phaserunner. Now it didn't want to stay fully inserted and liked to spark at random and wouldn't stay on unless I held the plug in place. I knew it was a bad connection.

I made it home last night by taking a flathead jeweler's screwdriver and expanding the pins on the controller side slightly outward from each other so that the XT60 from the plug seats more firmly into the connector on the controller side. The problem is that the metal on the connector on the controller side has become extremely soft and malleable. Is there a way to repair it with new plastic around the insert and new pins on the controller side? Or am I going to have to do like goatman and drill some screws into the connector pin and solder some wires into place?

I'd like to salvage this controller and keep using it(it will go into another project once I upgrade to the ASI BAC4000 in my possession, but that upgrade could be months away), and I won't be able to get another one until late next year!

I also spent 20 minutes last night cleaning blood and fur off of the underside of the velo. Streaks of blood originated and trailed from some of the underside bolts that held the nose piece to the nacelle and went along the underside. This was roughly a 20 lb racoon. I don't know if it survived. When I stopped, I couldn't find it, so it likely ran off somewhere.

mines still going with no issues since soldering in the copper and using the xt90

What are the items in the below photo called that you covered the drilled Phaserunner pins with? Did you affix them with soldering?



It's about time I upgraded this controller to handle higher wattages a bit better. I can't run 2500W for long or I'll destroy the controller's plastic from heat buildup. Most of my riding has been at 350W. I have a switch to allow the higher wattages when desired(currently my 3 settings are 350W w/ no speed limit, 750W w/28 mph limit for riding in Illinois, and 2500W w/ no speed limit, all PAS activated). I'd like to be able to ride at 2500W until either the battery is dead of the controller throttles the current back, but the controller plug, and not the controller itself, is my limiting factor.

female xt60 barrels, used the grinder to cut it
then slid it over the PR pins and drilled the hole so the bit didnt rip the pins out when drilling





a chunk of aluminum for a heatsink made a huge difference in performance for the PR and top speed

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=103833&p=1656424&hilit=stiletto#p1655136

Thank you for this information. What did you do with the wood screws? Did you insert them into the chopped XT60 pin as it was resting over the Phaserunner pin and then chop the screws off? I need to make sure I get these steps right, because I don't have a readily usable replacement controller(The ASI BAC4000 needs to be programmed and I do need to make a lot of upgrades to the trike before it can handle it).

With this modifcation plus heatsink, what kind of power are you finding that the Phaserunner can deliver continuously or without issue? For what your trike is, your speeds are impressive!

just used the screws to pull the barrels out of the xt60

used a drill bit the same size as the copper wire to drill about 1/4 inch? dont go deeper than the prongs

and keep the copper pointing upto the sky and the PR pointing to the floor so the heat doesnt go into the PR when soldering

this thread is when i dissected one

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=111861&p=1657111&hilit=phaserunner+surgery#p1658473