Battery Charging and Repair Problem

Joined
Nov 29, 2014
Messages
50
Location
Salt Spring Island BC
Hey folks, I am having a problem charging my battery and really need some help figuring out what could be wrong.

I have a Brand name electric bike with a lithium ion 48 volt, 15 amp hour battery that I bought new just over 3 years ago. I live in a rural area, and don’t go out much, but I rely on my bike to get into the nearest town every week or 2. The ride is 10 hilly miles in and back. I haven't put this battery through more than 150 charge cycles, and many of them were not bringing the battery to full charge... and I really did everything I could to optimize it's life span...

I usually only charge it to approximately 90% full just before I am about to go to town, and leave it at about 50 - 60% when it will be sitting a week or two, until charging it up for the next trip. For the first 2 and a ½ years, charging it after the 10 mile trip and sitting for a week, took about 3 hours. This year it seemed to maybe have a tiny bit less power than it did the first couple years, but still takes me the 10 hilly miles into town and back, with power to spare. Over the past 6 months it seemed it was maybe taking a bit less time to charge then it used to and had a bit less power. But nothing that noticeable.

But then one day, it suddenly charged for less than an hour after the 10 mile ride to town and back. I am not technically competent enough to know how to use a multimeter on this encased battery, so all I have to go on is the 4 battery indicator lights, but the 4 indicator lights have never been accurate and all 4 stay on when the bike is resting even when the bike is only charged to 50 -60%, and only go down to 3 lights when resting when the battery is a couple miles away from empty. (or only 1 flashing indicator light)

I thought maybe it wouldn’t charge because I created an imbalance by never fully discharging the battery, and always recharging, partially or fully after the ride to town and back, which only took it down to approx. 50 to 60%.

So I charged it as long as it would charge after draining it pretty low, down to 2 indicator lights, and it charged for an hour and 3/4. Which was longer than the hour it would charge, before I drained it that low... Then I rode the bike about 12 miles, and at the end of the ride, it quickly went from 2 battery indicator lights to 1 blinking indicator light. So I quickly shut it off, walked it home and recharged it. This time I was able to recharge it for 2 hours, and then it wouldn't charge any more. But it should have taken much longer from as close to completely discharged as it was...

So I contacted the guy who sold me the bike new, who I was told by our local bike shop was authorized to sell and work on that brand of bikes. I brought him my battery and he said he had recently seen several other failed BMS systems of the same brand of bike just in the past couple months, which he thought was odd as he had never seen this before and said the BMS should last the life of the battery. But he thought that was the problem. And he said he could replace the BMS for $250, and though he couldn’t guarantee the remaining battery life, or check the remaining capacity until the battery's BMS was replaced and it could be fully charged, he guessed it was probably still OK and with the replaced BMS it would work just like the original … except the green light I see on the button on the battery when it is on, would no longer light up.

I agreed to this and he did the repair, and then emailed me the battery was fixed, he had replaced the BMS, and the battery tested out at 14.3ah, which he said is a very good result for a 15ah rated battery. Implying he had been able to fully charge the battery after the fix, as he told me he couldn’t check this before the battery was fixed, as it wouldn’t fully charge. He also said the cells were balanced.

I paid him, got back my battery and charger, and today, thinking he sent it back fully charged, I put it in the bike to go for a ride. I wondered as soon as I turned it on because initially the first battery indicator light flashed on and off for a few seconds. The only other time it did this was when I had intentionally discharged the battery to be very low, and the first time I started it after I drained the battery down to one flashing indicator light and then recharged it. I wondered why it would still be doing the same thing if it had a new BMS… ? but then all 4 indicator lights lit up and everything seemed fine the first 1000 feet. Then I started going up a hill, and noticed the battery indicator lights dropped to 3, something it doesn’t normally do on a big hill until I have ridden 5 miles… I thought maybe the guy who repaired it had discharged it a bit- after testing the fully charged battery capacity? But another 200 feet up the hill and the battery indicator dropped to only one flashing light. Like it did when I intentionally ran it right down. The bike still seemed to be running normally, ?( maybe I am not recalling the last few seconds properly ?) but thinking maybe he had given me back a drained but fully repaired battery that just needed to be recharged, I quickly turned my bike off, walked it home, plugged it into the charger, hoping it would charge a few hours and be fine. But instead it charged for two hours, before the light on the charger turned green and it stopped charging. Which is exactly how long it charged after I ran it down to one flashing light, BEFORE the BMS was said to have been replaced, and before my presumably fully charged battery had it’s capacity tested at 14.3 amp hours… Does this even make sense?

The only difference now it is *repaired* is that the light that used to light up the button to turn on the battery, showing it was on, performed as the repair guy said, and it no longer comes on.

I only understand the basics of how batteries and ebikes work.

So… my question is, what might be going on that would account for these problems, and is there anything that matches this description that would persist unchanged after the BMS was replaced and the battery was tested, and found to have plenty of remaining capacity and balanced cells?

Sorry this is so long.. I just need to be sure I understand the range of possible things that might be going on ..?
 
1: I doubt that your battery was fully charged when the repair guy sent it back to you because for the purpose of shipping lithium batteries should be at 30% charged. (30% state of charge.)

2: Just because the green light turns on when your charger is finished doesn't automatically mean that the bms has balanced the pack. Since you don't know how to meter your cells, leave the battery charging for an extended period, like overnight.

3: Cycles aren't the only thing that kills a battery pack. Heat is also shortens battery life as does age.

4: A new BMS will not cure old cells. If you have a some weak cells they will show their weakness under stress, like going up a hill. It is known as "sag". Also, your repair guy may not have tested your total capacity under conditions that would make your battery sag. If the repair guy lives where it is flat, the sag you feel going over hills would not occur.

5: I highly recommend you get a mid range priced digital multi meter (DMM) and learn how to use it. $35 to $40 will get you a good one, although you could pay much less (Maybe under $10.00 including tax and shipping.) There are many YouTube how-to's on DMM's

6: Start saving for a new battery.

:D :bolt:
 
This guy is a character with an Aussy accent.
website - https://www.eevblog.com/
forum - https://www.eevblog.com/forum/
youtube - https://www.youtube.com/c/EevblogDave

He might have a lead on a good, cheap digital multi meter.

$21 cdn + shipping if your not near Vancouver, BC, Canada - https://ebikes.ca/mmeter-mini.html
 
When I had my old ebike, I replaced the battery with a Ping battery and learned how to use a multi meter on that battery. It was really helpful.

But the authorized ebike repair guy who charged me to repair it, and said it was fixed, has a multimeter and knows how to open the battery pack and check connections. He told me he tested the balance of the cells and the balance was OK, and after the BMS was fixed he said he was able to fully charge it and the 15 amp hour battery showed it had 14.3 amp hour capacity. Which would seem to mean my problem is not being caused by cells that are old or out of balance????


The battery was handed back to me in person, not sent back, so I would have expected it to have enough charge to go 1000 feet and up the start of a hill. If it didn't, and it was that close to empty it should have taken much longer than 2 hours to fully charge. It normally took at least 2 and a 1/2 hours to recharge from 50-60%.

Thinking about it, before the repair, when I recently intentionally rode the bike 12 miles, down to one flashing battery indicator light, I didn't notice much of a lag or decrease in power before this happened.... it was bouncing back from 2 lights under stress to 3 lights, a mile or two before I suddenly got down to 1 flashing light. And yesterday after 1000 feet starting to go up the hill, I also don't recall noticing any decrease in power, the bike seemed normal, just the indicator lights showed the battery wasn't as full as it normally should have been if it was fully charged, and then within 5 seconds it dropped from 3 lights going up the hill, to one flashing light. (normally, going up a steep hill, I have never seen it go below 2 lights, briefly and that only happens about 7 miles ride from a full charge ) I was kind of panicking wondering what was going on and wanting to turn it off, so I don't recall how the bike was running those last 5 seconds. But I used my brakes to stop myself going up hill, so it was working and still had power.

I suppose it is possible the battery is fixed and the problem is just the battery indicator lights? I can sort of test that by charging it as much as it will charge and seeing if it performs like it did a month ago before these problems.

I am on the West Coast of Canada, and we did have some extreme heat for this area, a few days in a row, in late June. No one has air conditioning and no one here is adapted to those temperatures. Hundreds of people died. The open ventilated shady woodshed where I store my bike and battery did get up to 100. However, I never charged it or used it during this period, and I had 3 normal charge cycles with no problems, after it cooled down. But the BMS systems I was told were suddenly failing on these bikes in the month following the heat wave could fit with this being caused by some kind of heat damage?

I would really like to know what could cause the problems I am describing if the BMS is new, the battery has been tested and is balanced and still has excellent capacity, and my charger appears to be working... ????
 
Learning Curve said:
Thinking about it, before the repair, when I recently intentionally rode the bike 12 miles, down to one flashing battery indicator light, I didn't notice much of a lag or decrease in power before this happened.... it was bouncing back from 2 lights under stress to 3 lights, a mile or two before I suddenly got down to 1 flashing light.

It's possible that the pack was still OK until you did this. If your pack was out of balance, then by discharging so low, the weak cells that were already low relative to the other cells, could have been discharged too low, damaging them. Overcharging and overdischarging both will damage cells. You have to balance the pack periodically, unless you have a way to monitor the voltages, and do it as needed.
 
I really hope I didn't damage the battery by discharging it that low... It was only down to one light for a couple seconds before I turned it off..

If the pack was out of balance, wouldn't the guy who repaired it see this imbalance when he tested the balance? He told me he did that before saying the BMS needed to be replaced, and he said the balance was fine.... Wouldn't this imbalance and damage also show up, when he later tested the capacity of the battery after it had been fully charged? This would have been tested with electronic battery test equipment, not him taking the bike for a ride in a flat or hilly area...

I really appreciate the feedback as I don't know enough to evaluate the situation and need some knowledgeable second opinions.
 
It looks like the problem probably isn't the battery, which does seem to be fixed and in good condition, but a glitch in the battery indicator lights. The repair guy says he replaced the BMS, fully charged the battery, and then discharged the battery to test it's capacity, and then charged it to 75%. If it was at 75% and not 20% as battery lights indicated, this would account for it only taking 2 hours to fully charge. After another test ride today, the battery being fully charged yesterday, the battery indicator lights seem to occasionally and randomly go down to one flashing light for a few seconds and then come back on to all 4, and when they do this it has no relation to how much power the bike is requiring at the moment, or the charge state of the battery....Maybe a loose connection from when the new BMS was installed? It never did this before... As long as they are usually accurate, the occasionally glitchy lights are something I can live with... and I am super glad my battery seems to be working normally!
 
With e-bikes, connectors rattle apart quite frequently. However, your battery is not young. Start saving for a new battery.

:D :bolt:
 
Thanks for the advice! I do have a battery replacement emergency fund.... As I rely on my bike for transportation, having an unusable bike is not an option... The repair guy who is familiar with this bike and battery thought it probably has a couple more years left in it, and it was worth fixing. So hopefully that will be the case, though I know with a 3 year old battery there is no guarantees.
 
You need to buy a cheap $15 multimeter and learn to use it, period. It's not rocket science, and if you're going to own an ebike, you really can't do much without one. If nothing else, it allows you to ask some questions here and have some data to help get you more concrete answers.
 
Can you tell your battery repair guy all you told us about the possibly glitchy battery leds and see what he has to say about it?

BTW I do have a run-of-the-mill battery pack that has charge level leds and it has never seemed that accurate or useful to me. Does your ebike include a display that shows battery charge level? In my case that is much more accurate and reliable. Not perfect, but at least usable.
 
I did tell the battery repair guy that the indicator lights seem glitchy... not the battery after he fixed it, as I originally thought. :oops: As long as it isn't a fire hazard and the indicator lights only go down to one for a few seconds every few miles, I am not sure it matters... esp. now I know the battery isn't actually critically low and in danger of damage if I keep riding.

There is 4 red lights near the handlebars that show the approximate battery charge... They are not super accurate but do inform me when something is wrong...

And E-HP is correct about me needing to get a multimeter and learn how to use it with this battery, as that would have shown me the battery was not the problem and prevented a lot of overly detailed, confused, semi hysterical rambling ... Sorry for my confusion..
 
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