Ebike axle wiring

MarkJohnston

10 kW
Joined
Mar 25, 2021
Messages
620
Hello

My ebike axle wiring is cracked as seen in the pictures. So far it doesn't look the wires are touching. However I can see the insulation is starting to crack in multiple places on the hall wiring. IMO before I start getting problems. I am especially worried that the wheel could suddenly go into reverse while at 40MPH. :shock:

I think it cracked in the first place because the axle is vibrating against the insulation but I am not sure why they would design this so crappy. I have been very careful when changing flats to make sure to lay it down non wore side.

For now I just put electrical tape over it. Thankfully I live in LA and it barely rains here.but I'd water gets in here I don't think it would be good. Please tell me what I should do. Also I don't have the time or tools to overhaul the hub and fix the wiring so please keep that in mind. I'm about to go on a tour with this ebike and want this fixed!!!
 

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Self fusing silicone tape maybe? It's not strong or abrasion resistant, but it's insulative and sealed.

Seems to me that your willingness/ability to open this thing up and fix it probably correlates to your self-sufficiency when cycle touring. But maybe you'll have a spell of good luck.
 
Hello

My ebike axle wiring is cracked as seen in the pictures. So far it doesn't look the wires are touching. However I can see the insulation is starting to crack in multiple places on the hall wiring. IMO before I start getting problems. I am especially worried that the wheel could suddenly go into reverse while at 40MPH. :shock:

I think it cracked in the first place because the axle is vibrating against the insulation but I am not sure why they would design this so crappy. I have been very careful when changing flats to make sure to lay it down non wore side.

For now I just put electrical tape over it. Thankfully I live in LA and it barely rains here.but I'd water gets in here I don't think it would be good. Please tell me what I should do. Also I don't have the time or tools to overhaul the hub and fix the wiring so please keep that in mind. I'm about to go on a tour with this ebike and want this fixed!!!
 

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If you're about to go on tour, maybe you should cultivate a different attitude about maintenance and self-sufficiency. I guarantee it will make your tour easier.

[youtube]spgDaEw0QEA[/youtube]

If you're more of a credit card tourist, well, best whip out that card and get you a new hub motor wheel.
 
MarkJohnston said:
I am not sure why they would design this so crappy.
Most likely they simply and quickly copied an existing substandard design and did not place any extra energy, thought, or inventiveness into improving it for its intended use. Maybe just trying to hit a pre-calculated price point that would be the major factor in the buying decision of the consumer.
 
Right, so it's just cheap. And I watched the video Chalo. I guess your right it would be best for me to learn how to fix this. But man, that guy really struggled running the wire through. Also I've burned out a $50 circuit board trying to solder wires to it. I messed up too many times and was impatient and over heated the board :shock: also I think I need a super precision tip for my DeWalt soldering iron. And also the MUCH THINNER GAUGE soldering wire! Any suggestions? I saw some soldering wire like that at the dollar store kings man brand

THE THING IS IF I FIX THIS I DONT WANT TO HAVE To DO THIS AGAIN! I had heard ebike hub motors WERE super reliable! But I've only put 5k miles on this motor and ALREADY .... THIS!!! :shock:

Do you guys have an suggestions for a replacement MOTOR wire? I want the sheath to be HEAVY DUTY and I also want a quick connect so changing an inner tube is a BREEZE. But most importantly SUPER HEAVY DUTY. I'M GOING TO have to set aside a lot of time so I can do the soldering and running the inner motor cables PERFECT.
 
MarkJohnston said:
... And also the MUCH THINNER GAUGE soldering wire! Any suggestions? ....
Good quality solder. There is world of difference between something like "kester" and some generic brand you might get at the dollar store. Also Tin/Lead still solders easier than anything else .... Sn63Pb37. Try Amazon. You can order Kester solder in nearly diameter you might need.

Examples:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJOU
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JF0PUW8

Do you guys have an suggestions for a replacement MOTOR wire?
https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/wiring/l1019-m.html
or if you need both male and female connectors:
https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/wiring/l10-ext.html
By the way, my calipers say that cable is 7.80mm outside diameter (but I got mine via ebay and there is no shield for the smaller conductors).

Alternately see this page:
https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/wiring.html
 
Just noticed a potential cause of why the wiring is like that in the first place. My pannier bag that houses the battery touches the wire when the wire is fully seated inside the axle. The bag pushes it down where it runs against the axle.i think this is why this happening. I think no matter what I do these bags will hit the wire especially when hitting bumps! Picture for you guys. I could potentially get the rack up an inch there is an eyelet. My whole design though relies on batteries in panniers. I spent $300 on these panniers. I would have to rebuild my batteries to put in the mid frame section.im not sure if moving the bags up an inch would even help
These bags to bounce up a bit when hitting bumps!

If this is the cause then it seems like I'm kind of f'ed..what do you guys think? I've heard of wiring harnesses melting before. In situations like these?
 

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Score another point for front hub motors.
 
by MarkJohnston » Sep 08 2021 8:49pm

Just noticed a potential cause of why the wiring is like that in the first place. My pannier bag that houses the battery touches the wire when the wire is fully seated inside the axle. The bag pushes it down where it runs against the axle.i think this is why this happening. I think no matter what I do these bags will hit the wire especially when hitting bumps! Picture for you guys. I could potentially get the rack up an inch there is an eyelet. My whole design though relies on batteries in panniers. I spent $300 on these panniers. I would have to rebuild my batteries to put in the mid frame section.im not sure if moving the bags up an inch would even help
These bags to bounce up a bit when hitting bumps!

If this is the cause then it seems like I'm kind of f'ed..what do you guys think? I've heard of wiring harnesses melting before. In situations like these?

Build a guard that bolts on and protects the cable as it exits. Or grove the axel end so the cable comes out pointing down. Then the axel will eat a hole in the pannier then you will move it.

I have panniers that rub a little and have a small hole in each one. My cable comes out between the motor and frame.
 
B114R-UPC.jpg

Find something like this for 10 cents at your local habitat for humanity or second use building materials store. Fasten it over the axle end, maybe cut a slot for the wire to exit. Kiss this problem goodbye.

Or find something more form-fitting and less obtrusive, you get the idea.

Yes the hubmotor wire exit design is not as good as it could be, but you should have noticed this potential failure mode when you were designing/fitting the battery panniers. IOW, it often pays off to study the possible implications or failures when modifying your bike or adding equipment or parts.

ADDED LATER: Looking at your photo, to avoid potential further problems, you should try to add a drip loop https://kbelectricpa.com/drip-loops-are-they-present-on-your-weatherhead/ in the cable as it exits the axle. Have the cable immediately curve downwards as it exits the axle, before it runs up the frame. That way any water collecting on the cable will run down it and drip off the low point rather than running directly into the axle.
 
ZeroEm said:
I'm switching my setups to the L1019 Plugs. It would be a no brainer to just buy a pair. you would have the cable and the plugs.

I don't think I can use the grins L1019 plugs. The problem is that the three large phase wires on this get INCREDIBLY HOT. I've already had the solder on an XT90 melt. The insulation on any connector melts very quickly. I highly doubt even grins connectors could take this punishment of heat. The only way to really keep these wires cool is the open air and keep these things as far away from each other as possible.

Looks like I'll have to get the cheap Chinese Ali baba replacement. There work pretty well I suppose
 

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Your's isn't that bad.


https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=66489&p=1676572#p1676572
Here is what my motor is right now in front of me at the computer.

11111.jpg

MarkJohnston said:
Hello

My ebike axle wiring is cracked as seen in the pictures. So far it doesn't look the wires are touching. However I can see the insulation is starting to crack in multiple places on the hall wiring. IMO before I start getting problems. I am especially worried that the wheel could suddenly go into reverse while at 40MPH. :shock:

I think it cracked in the first place because the axle is vibrating against the insulation but I am not sure why they would design this so crappy. I have been very careful when changing flats to make sure to lay it down non wore side.

For now I just put electrical tape over it. Thankfully I live in LA and it barely rains here.but I'd water gets in here I don't think it would be good. Please tell me what I should do. Also I don't have the time or tools to overhaul the hub and fix the wiring so please keep that in mind. I'm about to go on a tour with this ebike and want this fixed!!!
 
ZeroEm said:
Well I know what I would do. Don't use connectors and crimp together. I have been wanting to get rid of mine, just not there as yet.

How do you change a flat? I use crimp connectors and they are reliable as long as you ensure a good crimp comnectoon
 
Have enough length of wire so you don't need to unplug the phase / sense wires to change a flat tire.
I use 5.5mm bullet connectors that are then taped with electrical tape.
I think this time, I may do XT90 for the phase wires because I doubt I will have 5.5mm bullet connectors and to purchase locally I pay $14 for XT90 and $10-12 for big bullets from the local rc store. I found a great score for XT90's because Hobbyking is all out.
Just hard to find good wire locally for the axle wiring, like teflon ptfe have to order that online or on ebay. TBH I hard wire my throttle, half ass twist together my e-abs with elec tape, no sensor wires just phase w/ 5.5mm half assed soldered but good quality half assery solder job.


MarkJohnston said:
ZeroEm said:
Well I know what I would do. Don't use connectors and crimp together. I have been wanting to get rid of mine, just not there as yet.

How do you change a flat? I use crimp connectors and they are reliable as long as you ensure a good crimp comnectoon
 
by markz » Sep 16 2021 12:59am

Have enough length of wire so you don't need to unplug the phase / sense wires to change a flat tire.
I use 5.5mm bullet connectors that are then taped with electrical tape.
I think this time, I may do XT90 for the phase wires because I doubt I will have 5.5mm bullet connectors and to purchase locally I pay $14 for XT90 and $10-12 for big bullets from the local rc store. I found a great score for XT90's because Hobbyking is all out.
Just hard to find good wire locally for the axle wiring, like teflon ptfe have to order that online or on ebay. TBH I hard wire my throttle, half ass twist together my e-abs with elec tape, no sensor wires just phase w/ 5.5mm half assed soldered but good quality half assery solder job.

BillVon was using inner tubes that you don't need to remove the wheel. Have been searching his website for the name, still looking.
 
markz said:
Have enough length of wire so you don't need to unplug the phase / sense wires to change a flat tire.
I use 5.5mm bullet connectors that are then taped with electrical tape.
I think this time, I may do XT90 for the phase wires because I doubt I will have 5.5mm bullet connectors and to

I hate XT90s. I hate any connector thats going to get too hot and vibrate loose (solder I hate it) . Maybe my kit is S H I T and everything just gets too hot but I hate soldering connectors. HAAATE IIIIIIT. Crimping has been a lot better but I am noticing that the cheap chinese wires SUCK. They only give you 5 teeny tiny strands THAT BREAK if you so much as look at them wrong. :evil:

Connectors disconnect a lot so I can see why you would say create a very very long axle wiring. Good plan. But I may also need to true the wheel and all that at some point. I would need a HUGE wire like 6 feet long or something lol

Where am I even going to buy a new wire? The grins are just too pricy. Im getting scared. I check down there today and the black and green wires are coming out of their insulation!!! :shock: Just a matter of time until impending doom! I dont wanna fry the motor. :cry:
 
ZeroEm said:
BillVon was using inner tubes that you don't need to remove the wheel. Have been searching his website for the name, still looking.


Tubeless? I mean if it does exist there has to be a catch. You can't have your cake and eat it.
 
Okay never mind. The male and female are both 1.9 feet. 4 feet total. Should work in that space

https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/wiring/l1019-m.html

It doesn't say exactly how thick the wire is to fit though the axle bore. I also heard that the there is glue in the bore too sometimes
 
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