9C 9x7 motor axle too short for torque arms?

cloudy

10 W
Joined
Nov 24, 2020
Messages
73
Location
Australia
The 9C 9x7 motor I bought to replace my fried generic DD has much shorter axle length.

After attaching my freewheel, there is insufficient room to add even a modest 3mm thick torque arm, and still have enough threads to properly attach the axle nuts on the drive side. The part of the axle that's been machined flat to fit into 10mm dropouts is 29mm long on this side.

The non-drive side looks a little better, but still not really enough axle to play with after adding a 4mm thick torque arm. The flat bit of the axle on this side measures 27mm long.

I'm considering sending the 9C back for a refund and going back to ebay for a generic Motor. The fried generic ebay motor had 35mm and 37mm axle flats, which left plenty of space for everything. Why is the 9C so marginal?

Does anyone have a suggestion of how to attach the this motor to this (alloy) frame and manage axle torque ?

I'm not trying to build a hotrod, power levels < 1.5kW and I can live without regen FWIW. The lowest image shows the old fried motor axle in my dropouts. Should I be filing these dropouts to get a more snug fit on the axle? I've been holding back as there's not really a lot of material to play with on the dropouts.

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How about a TA in place of the tabbed washer on the non-drive side? Looks like it could be made a litter thicker than the one you made, and would preserve more threads for securely fastening the axle nut.
 
There must've been a run on short axles, because my Leaf 35H aka 1500W is the same way but mines longer then yours. Lose the washers, look into Grintech style T.A.'s
I just make my own, 1/4" flat steel but its close.

edit
Fixed spelling mistake, Lost to Lose.
 
Thanks Mark, I'll try your suggestion of inboard torque arm between the drop out and motor, in place of the tab washer. I've only ever thought to put torque arms outboard for some reason.

I also gained about 10mm of extra axle thread by ditching the 10 speed freehub in favour of a 7 speed. That's fixed all my issues, just need to track down a shifter and a nice big chainring, 1x7 setup.
 
Thought my leafmotor's axel was short too.
by markz » Oct 19 2021 8:30pm

There must've been a run on short axles, because my Leaf 35H aka 1500W is the same way but mines longer then yours. Lost the washers, look into Grintech style T.A.'s
I just make my own, 1/4" flat steel but its close.
 
I messed up my torque arm today. I had a flat so I decided to see if I could find the leak, couldnt.
Put the hub back on and it wasnt deep enough and spun. I saved it in time. But it bent the t.a. so had to suffer and pedal to the train and walk up the 3km slight hill as my gears suck. I did not realize I could have used my adj wrench as a t.a. if the hose clamp I had fit, but hey the 3km walk was fine, exercise and breaking a sweat on a hot +15C (+60F) day didnt hurt no one.

Can you buy an axle and press the old out and new in?
Might have been the guy working that day cut the axles to short :lol:
 
Ah man, that sucks. Sounds like you contained the damage quite well all things considered. Yeah I'm really pedantic with the wheel nut tension. I'm surprised you carry a wrench, I usually just have a d-lock with me and lock it to something and start running when something goes wrong. Probably a bit naïve but never had anything stolen.

I did try and remove the axle on a voilamart type hub without success. There was a large circlip which I removed, but the axle also seemed to be welded into the stator. No amount of hammer taping would move it.
 
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