Stutter and now failure with Baserunner on a Bafang G062

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Sep 8, 2019
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433
Location
USA, CA, Bay Area
Picked up a 52v hailong and baserunner to swap into my RadRunner+ bike. I believe the RR+ has a Bafang G062 motor, or a variant very close to that. I'm having a few issues in the setup:

  1. Speed Readings on the CA -- The CA3-WP (v3.14) does not show speed; yet when I am connected to the BR via USB the suite shows wheel rpm and approximate speed. Searching around I've seen that this may require an external speedo, but finding concrete info has been difficult and I would obviously prefer to not have to purchase the speedo magnet and solder it into my CA if I can avoid it.
  2. Stuttering and low/zero torque at start up -- After first getting it setup, I had no issues applying the Grin profile for the G060 moto and running autotune. If I was pedaling along and then twisted the throttle, I had no issues (no pas currently). However, trying to start from a stand still or slow speeds would stall or lead to a really stuttery/rattly start. If I simply put my feet on the ground, the motor gives up trying to go forward and the baserunner flashes 5-3, which apparently means "Hall stall".
  3. Won't spin at all now! -- I tried tweaking a few things and have now ended up in an odd state where the motor refuses to run at all. I can load the default params, run autotune and the motor will still spin from that. However, applying the throttle does not generate spin. I can see the CA sending the throttle, and the BR reports throttle voltage, but no dice. The Amps on the motor _does_ rise, to about 0.6A or so, but doesn't spin. Giving it a spin by hand doesn't help get it started either. I did have to make an adapter from the Julet Z916 to the HiGo L10, but I've double checked that for shorts and there's nothing in contact with each other (plus, I'd kinda expect that to cause an autotune failured or something).
 
Just to be sure, I did a quick test of hooking the motor back up to the previous controller and the motor still works just fine there, so I do no believe anything is amiss with the hardware on the dropouts.

Motor continues to refuse to spin at all while in Hall or Hall+SensorlessFallback mode.

If I put it into sensorless, however, I can get the motor to spin, but only for a little bit. Either one of two things are happening; either it just stop going (like it ramps, the stops, then ramps, then stops, over and over) or it runs up pretty fast makes an ugly noise and the BR reports an instantaneous phase overcurrent error (the most dreaded error, in my experience, as it seems to be caused by some many different things).

I've spent some time tweaking around all these various settings up/down and in various combinations but the same two behaviors above persist.

- Current Regulator Bandwidth
- PLL Bandwidth
- All the "Sensorless Starting Parameters"
 
chuyskywalker said:
I can try (and have certainly needed to do this on more basic KT style controllers), but the base/phase runner auto detects phases and halls; it shouldn't need that.

Indeed, all this did was make it spin backwards (which, naturally in a geared freewheel motor) does not do much :D
 
Whelp, I'm fairly certain it's something with the baserunner...

I hooked up a Grin GMAC 10T motor that I have on another bike (so no home-made adapter in the mix) and the motor has the exact same symptoms.

I may try plugging into the Baserunner direct throttle control to eliminate the CA as the culprit, but I'm pretty sure, at this point, that there is something wrong with the baserunner itself. Two different motors which work with other controllers just find both fail on this one to run correctly. This CA has also previously been used with a Phaserunner successfully. The only thing really left is the controller.

I'll shoot Grin an email and see what they've got to offer.
 
'Twas something gone horribly wrong in the baserunner (no idea what, really). Grin sent me a "level 3" recovery XML baseline for the controller and I've got wheel spin again. Still need to work out the stuttering on take off though.
 

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Figured I'd follow up in case anyone ever finds this in search results:

Never got it to run nicely. Here's a youtube of the issue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gk-iBkpY3Is

I ended up making the call to pickup a cheap direct drive hub both to "fix" my issue and to not have a geared drive. Ended up with this one from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KXL4923) and it's been working out nicely so far.
 
Hey Guys !!!.. been a while, i drop in here on occasion to check on things but my main account is messed up, can't see all forum sections since moderator access was removed... so had to make 2nd account..

anywhoooo.....

Am battling a similar issue with the Baserunner controller... rough startup but it starts, then smooths out while accelerating.. then once i reach cruising speeds .. 20 kph or so.. holding partial throttle.. the thing looses sync and starts to rumble very harshly.

I have tried just about everything i can think of to get this to run proper but am at wits end.. sent grin an email but it's that time of year and replies are slow, and not overly helpful with copy/paste from the CA manual info that i have read thru 1000's of times now..

Am working on a setup with 36v, Shenghi SX motor, basic throttle ( no pas ) ..

What's everyone's general range of power limits Again and Wgain .. ? as well as throttle any other tweaks you might have figured out within the CA menu options ?

Next up, am about to wire up a throttle direct to Baserunner, to bypass all CA options ... but figured i'd chime in to this thread in hopes someone has input.

cheers.
 
ok... quick update on this

After trying everything i could conceive of... including wiring up a Phaserunner ( because i needed the L10 hookup .. ) a new CA V3.. throttle etc.. go out for a test ride and pretty much the same shit going on ..... so has to be on the motor side.. right ?

Well, the SX motor comes with Z9 plug... but my last Baserunner was setup with L10... so i cut the Z9 off and soldered on a L10 end, took my time and got a proper solder on every wire, glue preg heat shrink , bundled that sucker up proper....

I think, not entirely sure yet but i suspect somehow electrical short or noise between the 3 phase, and hall + speedo wires going on .. cut all the shrink and tape off and separated the wires and a short test ride went well.. more to come !
 
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