Error 10, checked every connection, resistor black burnt smell

Wizzo

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It's burnt back and stinks, communication error 10 on my sw900 screen. Checked throttle voltage etc etc so opened up and I could smell something was burnt before opening it please help. I have multimeter solder iron etc, but don't know how to test them, or even if it is blown. Thanks Lee
 
Wizzo said:
Someone please help

It will be difficult to help without more information or context, like more info about your system, what voltage you are running, wheither the system ever functioned properly, or what was happening immediately before the failure occured.
 
Replace the resistor, check components in and around that resistor
Try to get it going

If not, buy a non display generic controller and ride.
 
its a 3000 watt to 8000watt peak hub. controller rated for 72v 60 amps, ive done almost 200miles it says, and im only running a 52v battery with peak bms at 45amps, so nowhere near the power the controllers rated, so i cannot see how it blew, i first see error 7 wich is hub, then straight to error 10. took the hub apart and all connections fine as last time the error stayed on 7 and it was a loose hall sensor connection that was over 150 miles ago resoldered it and now this just over 150 miles later this happens. so with the bad smell and the blacked out im assuming its the controller
 
calab said:
Replace the resistor, check components in and around that resistor
Try to get it going

If not, buy a non display generic controller and ride.
But i dont know what resister it is and how to test everything around it
 
If your lucky you can read the color code or measure the resistance with your ohm meter.
More ways of luck is to find someone who has the same controller as you.

Troubleshooting can come down to just being an art form.
 
Something else probably failed and caused the resistor to burn. I would start by looking for the 5v supply on the throttle or motor halls. If something shorted the 5v line, it could blow the 5v regulator and fry the resistor. My guess is that resistor feeds the voltage regulator. It may also be feeding the display power.

You can also try to measure the resistance of the resistor (no power). Even though it overheated, it may actually still be working.

It would also be good if you had a way to measure the current draw of the controller.
 
That resistor is usually the one intended to drop voltage from battery level down to what the low voltage power supply (5v, 12v, etc) can handle.

What usually causes it to burn like that is using a voltage on the controller higher than it was designed for, which increases the watts it has to dissipate, which it can't do very well inside the controller case with no airflow.
 
calab said:
If your lucky you can read the color code or measure the resistance with your ohm meter.
More ways of luck is to find someone who has the same controller as you.

Troubleshooting can come down to just being an art form.

i dont know if im testing right but getting no resistence on any settings, im unsure if im testing it correctly
 
No reading indicates the resistor is burned out. Now, we need to figure out the correct value to replace it with. The typical 7812 regulator has a maximum input voltage of around 35v, so the resistor has to drop the battery voltage to below this, but above 15v. Typical control circuit current is around 0.1A. Without running it and measuring, it will be a guess as to the actual current. My guess will be around 480 ohms. The physical size of the resistor needs to be large enough to dissipate the heat. The original one was maybe too small.
 
fechter said:
No reading indicates the resistor is burned out. Now, we need to figure out the correct value to replace it with. The typical 7812 regulator has a maximum input voltage of around 35v, so the resistor has to drop the battery voltage to below this, but above 15v. Typical control circuit current is around 0.1A. Without running it and measuring, it will be a guess as to the actual current. My guess will be around 480 ohms. The physical size of the resistor needs to be large enough to dissipate the heat. The original one was maybe too small.

How come the person above is saying nothing has no resistance? I'm getting more confused now
 
How come the person above is saying nothing has no resistance? I'm getting more confused now

If your meter isn’t giving a reading it means it’s an open circuit, which I was pointing out is actually infinite resistance not no resistance. The meter isn’t reading anything because the value is too high for the meter to display. No resistance would imply a perfect conductor, something that doesn’t exist.

The practicality of this is the resistor is burnt out as fechter wrote.
 
Blacklite said:
How come the person above is saying nothing has no resistance? I'm getting more confused now

If your meter isn’t giving a reading it means it’s an open circuit, which I was pointing out is actually infinite resistance not no resistance. The meter isn’t reading anything because the value is too high for the meter to display. No resistance would imply a perfect conductor, something that doesn’t exist.

The practicality of this is the resistor is burnt out as fechter wrote.
Say this in lamans terms please. So the resister is burnt out.? I don't understand the paragraph above that tho.
 
Wizzo said:
Say this in lamans terms please. So the resister is burnt out.? I don't understand the paragraph above that tho.
Watch this video. Notice when he first calibrates his meter, he shorts the two probes together, and the resitance is 0 ohms. That's because a Short is zero resistance. There is still resistance in the wires of the probes, since there's nothing with no/zero resistance, which is why meters need to be calibrated to take into account the small resistance of the probes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJ_4Xb_fOCA

Notice after the calibrates, he unshorts the leads. Now the meter reads infinite resistance. That's because an open circuit can't conduct electricity, except whatever can be conducted by what's between the probes, in this case air. I suppose if you had some really sensitive equipment, the resitance might not be infinite, but very very high, if some electrons could be conducted through the air.

Bottom line, short circuit is zero/no resistance; open circuit is infinite. So when you make a statement like "but getting no resistence on any settings?", then we don't know what you're talking about, when you don't know yourself. (I was surprised you said no resistance, since I was expecting infinite resistance when I saw the pic)
 
If the meter doesn't change when you put the probes on the resistor, it means the resistor is burned out (infinite resistance).

If you replace the resistor, it might burn out again if something else is shorted downstream. You won't know until you try it. My wild guess is around 500 ohms, 2W. Once you replace the resistor, you can measure the voltage (from battery negative) on each side of the resistor. One side should show pack voltage. The other side needs to be between 15v and 35v. If the voltage is too high or too low, you can change the resistor to get the right voltage.
 
E-HP said:
Wizzo said:
Say this in lamans terms please. So the resister is burnt out.? I don't understand the paragraph above that tho.
Watch this video. Notice when he first calibrates his meter, he shorts the two probes together, and the resitance is 0 ohms. That's because a Short is zero resistance. There is still resistance in the wires of the probes, since there's nothing with no/zero resistance, which is why meters need to be calibrated to take into account the small resistance of the probes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJ_4Xb_fOCA

Notice after the calibrates, he unshorts the leads. Now the meter reads infinite resistance. That's because an open circuit can't conduct electricity, except whatever can be conducted by what's between the probes, in this case air. I suppose if you had some really sensitive equipment, the resitance might not be infinite, but very very high, if some electrons could be conducted through the air.

Bottom line, short circuit is zero/no resistance; open circuit is infinite. So when you make a statement like "but getting no resistence on any settings?", then we don't know what you're talking about, when you don't know yourself. (I was surprised you said no resistance, since I was expecting infinite resistance when I saw the pic)
I am trying to learn soz, I will desolder it off the board and check then, this is my hobby, I'm not a qualified electrician like you sound you are. Then I should know if there's a short on the board, and get a more accurately reading. Yes? The digital meter he has is same as mine, so will watch and follow it when I get home. Thanks
 
The multimeter reads 1. Then touching the probes together goes to 0.00 untouch probes an goes back to 1. So I've unsoldered the resister from board and stays at 1.
What ever setting I put it on?
 
fechter said:
If the meter doesn't change when you put the probes on the resistor, it means the resistor is burned out (infinite resistance).

If you replace the resistor, it might burn out again if something else is shorted downstream. You won't know until you try it. My wild guess is around 500 ohms, 2W. Once you replace the resistor, you can measure the voltage (from battery negative) on each side of the resistor. One side should show pack voltage. The other side needs to be between 15v and 35v. If the voltage is too high or too low, you can change the resistor to get the right voltage.
What I've replied first is what your saying then. Thank you for explaining it better to me. How do I know what voltage resister needed tho if your saying between them voltages?
 
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