Controller or wheel damaged ?

valentin

1 mW
Joined
May 6, 2022
Messages
10
Hello everyone, I am Valentine from France.

I come to this forum to ask you for help because I think I may have damaged my e-bike.

1 month ago, I installed a 1000 watt 48 volts rear wheel and have a 48 volt 15 AH Samsung battery.

Following problems with annoying micro cuts when I was driving during acceleration. I deduced that my controller was sending too much current to my wheel. I tried to adjust my screen SW 900 (P14 Current limiting) but it didn't work.

This morning, I therefore decided to cut a small section on one of my two shunts present in my controller.

Once on the road, everything went well. Power limited to 1200 or 1250 watts and no cuts during acceleration. It was perfect. Except that after 10 minutes of driving, my controller got stuck on error code 09 and I can't do anything! I unplugged everything and plugged it back in as well, I checked the controller and nothing seems to be damaged (I just noticed that when I switch on there is a single little "tick" noise in my wheel as if it is was activating, and before cutting my shunt; no particular noise when i turn on).

I feel like it happened when my speed was quite high at the end of my road test but it may not have anything to do with it!

When I came home pedaling without motor, I felt an anormal resistance force in my wheel. A little later in the day I took the cover off my motor to check the magnets and everything seems normal. I put everything back together and the resistance in the wheel was gone. Except when I turned on again, still error code 09 and the resistance in the wheel reappeared and still present even after the wheel was completely disconnected.

I’ve searched on the web and many forums, I can’t find any solutions.

In short always error code 09 and motor resistance. Impossible to use my Bike.

Thanks for reading
 
https://solosbikes.com/blogs/helpful-info/sw900-display

So error 09 on the sw900 seems to be a controller issue. What you describe sounds like failed mosfet(s) inside the controller, shorting motor phases.

If there is resistance when motor is not connected to anything - short circuit inside motor

If there is no resistance with motor not connected but resistance when it is connected to controller then controller is shorted, needs to be repaired or replaced.
 
Thanks for your answer larsb,

cutting a shunt is supposed to reduce the current from my readings, weird that it did how much damage :confused: resistance on the wheel is present all the time (motor connected and disconnected) except when I opened my motor to check the magnets there was no resistance until I turned the power back on !
 
Disconnect Motor phase wires from the controller and spin the wheel.
Is there resistance on the wheel?
If yes, you have a short in the windings or phase wires of the wheel. If not, move the phase wires a little while spinning the wheel, it still can be a intermittent phase wire short circuit or even short of a phase wire to ground (can cause issues depending on your wire diagram).
 
parabellum,

the battery is disconnected

All cables disconected from the wheel = no resistance

Blue, Green and yellew connected = resistance

Blue and yellow connected = no resistance

Blue and green connected = resistance

Green and yellow connected = resistance

The resistance problem comes from the green wire !

Thanks a lot for your help !
 
Yes, you probably right, strange that cut one shunt cause a shorted mofset...
I Hope no damage in my wheel !!

I order a new controller 1000 w 48 v with LCD 8 (with current limit parameter avaible if I need it). Better than cut the shunt..
 
valentin said:
Yes, you probably right, strange that cut one shunt cause a shorted mofset...
I Hope no damage in my wheel !!

I order a new controller 1000 w 48 v with LCD 8 (with current limit parameter avaible if I need it). Better than cut the shunt..
You may have caused damage to the mosfet before modifying shunt, or as mentioned before, ESD damage while working on the shunt. What motor and turn count, other specs you got? What is the wheel diameter? Your wheel combo may have been wrong for the controller you got, hammering it to dead.
 
hello,

Parabellum, you are right, I tested MOSFETs with a friend who have a multimeter and one is fried near the green wire phase (logical with the rolling on my wheel only when this wire is connected). All others MOSFETs are OK (same values on multimeter).

I would like to thnak you for helping !

Do you know what kind of Mosfet i have to buy (Controller DC MOTO, Voltage DC36/48V, Current 26+-1A, Booster 1:1, Speet: 1.1-4.2 V Dual Mode) ?

On Mosfet it is notice :
AL1FX
SAMWIN SW062R08E8T (can't find on the web)

My Wheel is a 48v 1000w CSC
 
larsb said:
.. What you describe sounds like failed mosfet(s) inside the controller, shorting motor phases.

If there is resistance when motor is not connected to anything - short circuit inside motor

If there is no resistance with motor not connected but resistance when it is connected to controller then controller is shorted, needs to be repaired or replaced.

Hrm.. wasn’t i first?
Well well, never mind :roll: :wink:
 
Hello,

I need to buy a new Mosfet for my Controller :
DC MOTO, Voltage DC36/48V, Current 26+-1A, Booster 1:1, Speet: 1.1-4.2 V Dual Mode

Originals are AL1FX SAMWIN SW062R08E8T (can't find a new one on the web)

Bojack TO-220 seems good but I am not at all sure !

Could you advice me ? thanks a lot

Valentin
 
valentin said:
I need to buy a new Mosfet for my Controller :
DC MOTO, Voltage DC36/48V, Current 26+-1A, Booster 1:1, Speet: 1.1-4.2 V Dual Mode

Originals are AL1FX SAMWIN SW062R08E8T (can't find a new one on the web)
this one?
https://www.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/pdf/945096/SEMIPOWER/SW078R08ET.html

If so, you should get a FET that matches or exceeds at least the bolded terms below:

Absolute maximum ratings
SymbolParameterValueUnitTO-263TO-220
VDSSDrain to source voltage 80V
IDContinuous drain current (@TC=25oC) 60*A
Continuous drain current (@TC=100oC) 38*A

IDMDrain current pulsed (note 1)240A
VGSGate to source voltage ±20V
EASSingle pulsed avalanche energy (note 2) 304mJ
EARRepetitive avalanche energy (note 1)32mJdv/dt
Peak diode recovery dv/dt (note 3)5V/ns
PDTotal power dissipation (@TC=25oC) 134 144W
Derating factor above 25oC1.11.2W/oCTSTG

And also matches or is less than the below bolded terms:
On characteristics
VGS(TH)Gate threshold voltageVDS=VGS, ID=250uA 2 4VRDS
(ON)Drain to source on state resistance
VGS=10V, ID=60A 7.99.9mΩ
VGS=10V, ID=30A 7.89.7mΩ

GfsForward transconductanceVDS=10V, ID=30A90S




Bojack TO-220 seems good but I am not at all sure !


That comes up with a number of possible parts.
https://www.google.com/search?q=Bojack+TO-220&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&client=firefox-b-1

What is the link to the specific part you are looking at?


Also, note that changing just one FET is likely to cause current-flow balance problems between it and other FETs, so you may have to change all of the FETs at the same time to the same one. You can test it with just one first, but if it doesn't seem to be working quite like it did before....
 
Hi,

I think I success to repair my controller because not error 09 when I turn on and no rolling in my wheel
but another problems appears, when i turn the throttle, just a "tick" noise in the wheel, no power ! Code 09 appears only when I turn the throttle...

I am not lucky ;(

Thanks
 
I have a small question to ask you,

Is the verification of the friction in the electric wheel (by connecting all the possibilities of pairs yellow-green, green-blue, yellow-blue, ...) when the controller is disconnected means the certainty that the wheel is not damaged or other problems are possible despite this ?

Thanks
 
You were right guys it was my controller ! thanks for help

I just received my new controller with LCD8H, it works perfectly good and I have a little more power.

Just my speed display is wrong.. under the real speed
 
hello,

Parabellum, you are right, I tested MOSFETs with a friend who have a multimeter and one is fried near the green wire phase (logical with the rolling on my wheel only when this wire is connected). All others MOSFETs are OK (same values on multimeter).

I would like to thnak you for helping !

Do you know what kind of Mosfet i have to buy (Controller DC MOTO, Voltage DC36/48V, Current 26+-1A, Booster 1:1, Speet: 1.1-4.2 V Dual Mode) ?

On Mosfet it is notice :
AL1FX
SAMWIN SW062R08E8T (can't find on the web)

My Wheel is a 48v 1000w CSC
I think you can replace the dead mosfet with an IRFB4110 that is widely sold in shops.
 
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