!!! Problem with L-brake (brake low) !!!

FERDI

1 µW
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Aug 10, 2022
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I used L-brake wires until now for cutting motor and motor braking and everything went well suddenly this morning i used the brakes and I noticed that the motor cut but no motor braking :warn:
does someone know that problem why it happens or/and how to solve it
 
FERDI said:
I used L-brake wires until now for cutting motor and motor braking and everything went well suddenly this morning i used the brakes and I noticed that the motor cut but no motor braking :warn:
does someone know that problem why it happens or/and how to solve it

Not without more info, but if braking include regen, the controller may not allow it if the battery is near full charge.
 
Could be the switch, whether its apart of the brake lever or you installed a switch elsewhere like I did.
People may think its for regen :lol: and I wish it was.

Could be that moisture got somewhere, it does happen and has happened to me on my throttle once.

I can only assume your using e-brake levers, so its doubtful the switch itself is bad, but it could have been compromised with water or a bad connector more then likely because a price point needs to be met for profit, just cheap connectors they eye for $. Happens more then you'd think, cheap-ass connectors and is often over-looked.

The first thing I do is look at the wiring.

Next are the connectors. Its easy to bypass connectors if your not set on using cheap connectors cause your scared of wiring, lots are. Some want to keep their connectors stock, using Juliet connectors or what have you. Why bother with that jazz? If your in a pinch, you aint riding until that ebay order arrives :lol: that is why I switch my connectors to xt90 because local hobby shops sell them, or if I want Anderson Power Poles, another local store provides that to, unless its the weekend, but I aint waiting weeks for Juliets (phase/halls) or some stranged pitched counterfeit Molex, which if thats the case, same local store sells the Molex connectors of various pitches and sizes, but the kicker is that I know they are genuine but most importantly they are local.
The non initiated see my hornets nest of wiring and they think I am a genius wiring god, no no I am just lazy and cheap. Hardwired low-abs either twisted or a step up being twisted wires and taped with 3m elec tape, then theres always a 50/50 chance of using solder and heat shrink if the tote holding solder stuff is not too far away and I have electrical solder.

For your brake low problem, its easy to bypass and just touch the wires of low brake together while using the throttle to see if it cuts off.
You can do that by routing wire up to the handle bar, strip both wires, tape one wire to the handle bar exposing the wire conductor, bend the other wire up and use your thumb to engage.
The problem occurs when you use low brake at low speeds, its hard to distinguish if its activated or not. I ran into that problem when I first started using low brake. I liked it a lot, but the problem occurred with the homemade torque arms tolerances allowing the rocking, back and forth of the axle flats. Ending up with damaged axle threads, mind you I had only one torque arm, and 1800w for years.


FERDI said:
I used L-brake wires until now for cutting motor and motor braking and everything went well suddenly this morning i used the brakes and I noticed that the motor cut but no motor braking :warn:
does someone know that problem why it happens or/and how to solve it
 
It's not motor braking. It will cut throttle and motor power when you brake as a safety measure. You can see the brake symbol on the dispaly.

Low means when not braking it will show approx 5 volts if you check with multimeter. When you engage the break it will go lower voltage or zero voltage.

Hope this helps.

Note :- My answer is based on brainpower Chinese 500W motor controller and S866 display.
 
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