Do some BMS's cut battery instantly when its voltage reaches max. discharge??

mickyd

10 W
Joined
Sep 12, 2022
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Location
Sunny San Diego
Got a FREE Craigslist triangle battery, 13S8P (104 cell). The owner indicated it was getting a bit tired but still had life in it. Cells are Dynabat MX18650-26P, 3.6V, 2600 mAH, 9.36 Wh.
Cell spec sheet pdf file - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Y744v5nayKX0M1GqN49DiZ70qXpBICfC/view?usp=sharing

Battery came with a 54.6V 3A cooling fan charger. Charged it until the green light came on at which point, the charger automatically shut off.

Don't have any BMS specifics since it has foam cushion glued over its label and can't remove it without boogering up the label.

Put the beast on my wife's Trike which has a generic Amazon 1000W front hub motor / independent controller. Took it for a slow paced flat test ride to see what it's range would be (which turned out to be about 10 miles). Plan was to drain it to the point of obvious reduced power. I started feeling a slight power reduction / fluctuating lag as with my other e-bikes, then the power cut off instantaneously.

So, my question is...what caused the power to cut off instantly?

NOTE: The voltage of the entire pack after 1 hour cool down was 47.35V with the following voltages from adjacent BMS plug wire connectors. The number in (-0.xx) is the difference from the HIGHEST series pack.

1- 3.66(-0.04) BLACK LEAD
2- 3.57 (-0.13)
3- 3.68 (-0.02)
4- 3.70 (0.00) HIGHEST PACK
5- 3.64 (-0.06)
6- 3.67 (-0.03)
7- 3.44 (-0.16) LOWEST PACK
8- 3.67 (-0.03)
9- 3.65 (-0.05)
10- 3.66 (-0.04)
11- 3.69 (-0.01)
12- 3.68 (-0.02)
13- 3.64 (-0.06) RED LEAD
Total voltage = 47.35V
 
ebuilder said:
Hey Mick, you know what you they say about free stuff....you get what you....you know. ;)

Why would it cut out with those voltages? Because those voltages were after cool down with no load.
When drawing power from the battery, the concept of voltage sage occurs. As voltage sags, the BMS monitors the parallel cell groups you show and one group probably fell below 3.0v or so...the weakest or at least lowest voltage group. Role of the BMS is to protect all cells...healthy cells from overcharging and weakest cells from undercharge...likely no. 7 group you highlight.

Free CAN = GOOD. :D I am actually totally happy with the range on this freebie as the Trike is only used to get to the post office and grocery store, 3 mile round trip. Plus, my wife won't be borrowing my Hailong battery. BIG PLUS!!

The reason I asked my question about the BMS cutting power instantly is because my 2 other E-bikes, the WHINEY Bafang motor MTB, and another 1000W Amazon rear hub commuter bike, don't cutout instantly, but just loose power to the point where they barely crawl, forcing me to know I have to turn off and pedal. Both those bikes share the SAME Hailong 48V battery pack. Is the reason they don't cutout is because the parallel groups on that battery are more closely balanced, thus no groups get below the 3.0V or so value were the BMS cuts out, but instead the bikes just slowly drain to virtually not enough voltage to barely move? I am questioning if my Hailong BMS is acting the way its supposed to. Hopefully my concern is clear. I don't have enough BMS knowledge to know if they are all made with the same cutoff specs.
 
mickyd said:
The reason I asked my question about the BMS cutting power instantly is because my 2 other E-bikes, the WHINEY Bafang motor MTB, and another 1000W Amazon rear hub commuter bike, don't cutout instantly, but just loose power to the point where they barely crawl, forcing me to know I have to turn off and pedal. Both those bikes share the SAME Hailong 48V battery pack. Is the reason they don't cutout is because the parallel groups on that battery are more closely balanced, thus no groups get below the 3.0V or so value were the BMS cuts out, but instead the bikes just slowly drain to virtually not enough voltage to barely move? I am questioning if my Hailong BMS is acting the way its supposed to. Hopefully my concern is clear. I don't have enough BMS knowledge to know if they are all made with the same cutoff specs.

A BMS does cut power on LVC, it doesn't have any electronics capable of doing anything else. It only has an on/off switch on the output, and no current-control device. (even if it can monitor current (not all can), it can still only either turn off the output or leave it on).

A controller can decrease power as LVC approaches, however, and that's a common enough approach (though plenty of them just cut power at their LVC instead, and some are user-programmable for which behavior to use). A controller is a current-control device, so it can easily just decrease the amount of current it permits the use of when it approaches the LVC.

Any BMS capable of rolling back current would also be a DC-DC converter (or inverter), and be significantly larger, heavier, and more complex and expensive than a BMS typically is.


LVC on a BMS is based on individual cell (group) voltages, usually as low as 2.8v, which is pretty much completely dead empty for a cell--it's intended as a safety cutoff, rather than an everyday end-of-ride indicator.

So controller LVCs are pack-voltage based (because they don't typically have access to the cell voltages), and are usually equivalent to 3 - 3.3v per cell (group) (times however many series cell groups). So a 13s 48v pack would usually be something like 41-42v shutoff, and may begin cutting back power a bit above that.


The new pack you're dealing with has a very low cell group, at 3.4v, which is not far from empty, and will end up dropping to / below the BMS cell-level LVC when under enough load, and the BMS will just turn off the discharge port to protect against overdischarge of the cell.

If this pack only exhibits this behavior on this particular controller, then it's possible the controller is also the type that just cuts power instead of rolling it back.


Side note: with a pack that's capable of handling the load even when near empty, you will also see reduced performance because of system voltage drop under load (reducing total system power available to the motor), even if the controller does not roll back power based on system voltage.
 
ebuilder said:
Reason Mick, is there are typically two LVC cut offs. One for the battery BMS and the other for the controller.
Three different controllers with the same Battery and different behavior? Pretty obvious the bike in question that is cutting out, its the controller LVC.

Appreciate this clarification. I wasn't sure that the controller had its own LVC that could take precedence over the batteries LCV. So much to learn....

ebuilder said:
But, to regress to previous discussion, reason is a beat down battery with likely one or more bad cell groups.
Question is...what to do about it? Then it becomes more complicated. Changing cells, testing individual cells with a capacity tester typically is reserved for only the diehard enthusiasts willing to take the dive, purchase a spot welder, nickel strips new replacement cells, Kapton tape etc. 98 percent of ebike owners won't do that.

A last note is a concept called throwing good money after bad. Doc wrote an important post about swapping new cells into a beat up battery. I hope you find it, its recent. This puts a lot of stress on the new cells and guess what? The rest of the battery is comprised of weak cells, just not as bad as the most aberrant group. This is why its conventional wisdom just to replace the battery. If you have bad cells in a newish battery, that is a different scenario and some may fix a new battery with bad cells. And Mick, remember what I said about free stuff. ;)

I was unable to find the post from Doc you mentioned but will continue looking for it. It might be in the thread topic "one cell group wont fully charge" https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=117655 but I haven't read through it yet. Is that the one?

Funny you mention enthusiasts 'willing to take the dive' into battery repairs / builds. Well, I decided last week that I'd become on of those enthusiasts since I LOVE undertaking new adventures, so I am taking the dive. For my practice battery....I have an 2 yr. old $100 e-bay blue shrink wrap 48V 13S3P pack which was on the trike. Only lasted about 80 charge cycles. Wouldn't charge at all one day. Pulled the pack apart just to salvage the 'good' cells for use in flashlights. Then I decided to throw just a little bit of 'good' money into it to see if could revive it somehow for cheap just as a learning experience. $50 Amazon handheld spot welder (which includes nickel PLATED strip), Kapton tape, and $9 for 18 brand name modem pack 18650 cells from a local recycle facility. NOTE: My goal is NOT to have an awesome battery, but to just learn the build process. Also purchased that $30 LiitoKala Lii-500 4 Slot Smart Intelligent Battery Charger you commented on in the thread I referenced above.
 
ebuilder said:
But, doing what you are doing to bone up on battery repair no question will improve your skills and maybe you will get a little more life out of the old battery for not too much invested.

As Tom wrote in another thread about which battery to buy....he and I agree that building batteries doesn't add up to time and personal labor cost. Plenty of time is already spent doing preventive maintenance on our bikes, like changing tires and brake pads, changing chains, greasing motors etc. But, the huge conundrum for all of us is, what kind of cells are we going to end up inside that enclosure if we 'trust' the word of a common battery seller? That's the problem for ebike hobbyists and why those unwilling to take this leap of faith build their own batteries.
I too agree it may not be cost advantageous to do ones own battery build but NOTHING beats the satisfaction of knowing its your baby, built with your own hands.
 
mickyd said:
1- 3.66(-0.04) BLACK LEAD
2- 3.57 (-0.13)
3- 3.68 (-0.02)
4- 3.70 (0.00) HIGHEST PACK
5- 3.64 (-0.06)
6- 3.67 (-0.03)
7- 3.44 (-0.16) LOWEST PACK
8- 3.67 (-0.03)
9- 3.65 (-0.05)
10- 3.66 (-0.04)
11- 3.69 (-0.01)
12- 3.68 (-0.02)
13- 3.64 (-0.06) RED LEAD
Total voltage = 47.35V

it would be great if every post about a bad battery had data like this. Your battery is unbalanced. Group 7 is your weakest, sitting .44 volt above the 3V/cell cutoff that most BMS use. Under load, it probably sags under the 3V/cell cutoff used by most BMS.

Unless your battery has a balance BMS, when you recharge the pack, group 7 will likely be .3 volts lower than the rest when the other cells hit 4.2V and shut off charging. It will never catch up. There's also the unusual case where group 7 hits 4,2V well before the other cells. What you should do is recharge the battery and measure #7 to see where it sits. Then give it another charge overnight to see if it gets any higher. If it does, the BMS is balancing the cell and it may eventually be OK.

What to do if group 7 remains stuck .3 volt behind the others? If you're getting sufficient range out of the battery, you might live with it. You can also try recharging it manually to the same level as the others and see if it stays in sync.
 
docw009 said:
mickyd said:
AFTER FULL DISCHARGE
1- 3.66(-0.04) BLACK LEAD
2- 3.57 (-0.13)
3- 3.68 (-0.02)
4- 3.70 (0.00) HIGHEST PACK
5- 3.64 (-0.06)
6- 3.67 (-0.03)
7- 3.44 (-0.16) LOWEST PACK
8- 3.67 (-0.03)
9- 3.65 (-0.05)
10- 3.66 (-0.04)
11- 3.69 (-0.01)
12- 3.68 (-0.02)
13- 3.64 (-0.06) RED LEAD
Total voltage = 47.35V

it would be great if every post about a bad battery had data like this. Your battery is unbalanced. Group 7 is your weakest, sitting .44 volt above the 3V/cell cutoff that most BMS use. Under load, it probably sags under the 3V/cell cutoff used by most BMS.

Unless your battery has a balance BMS, when you recharge the pack, group 7 will likely be .3 volts lower than the rest when the other cells hit 4.2V and shut off charging. It will never catch up. There's also the unusual case where group 7 hits 4,2V well before the other cells. What you should do is recharge the battery and measure #7 to see where it sits. Then give it another charge overnight to see if it gets any higher. If it does, the BMS is balancing the cell and it may eventually be OK.

What to do if group 7 remains stuck .3 volt behind the others? If you're getting sufficient range out of the battery, you might live with it. You can also try recharging it manually to the same level as the others and see if it stays in sync.
Doc....your group 7 predication of being -0.3V AFTER charge was spot on. Also notice all groups falling short of 4.2V and all over the place, although as I 'think' 0.05V differences may be 'normal'?.

You mentioned doing a 'recharge' to see what group 7 did. I let the battery rest for a day then put it on the charger but the light was GREEN. The pack voltage measured identical to its initial charge at 52.77V

AFTER FULL CHARGE
Full chg (Diff. from highest)
1- 4.04V (-0.11)
2- 4.10 (-0.05)
3- 4.13 (-0.02)
4- 4.10 (-0.05)
5- 3.98 (-0.17) Below 4.00
6- 4.11 (-0.04)
7- 3.80 (-0.35) Lowest
8- 4.06 (-0.09)
9- 4.15 (0.00) Highest
10- 4.09 (-0.06)
11- 4.09 (-0.06)
12- 4.07 (-0.08)
13- 4.05 (-0.10)
Fully charged 52.77V

This was a free 13S8P battery stated by previous owner as "tired". It DOES provide adequate range for its purpose of running errands.... about 8-10 flat miles. However, if there is anything that can be done to easily extend that, I'd do it.

You mention manually charging. Based on the after charge results with group voltages all over the place, is that still an option?
 
docw009 said:
What do others think? Is it worth trying to charge group 7 manually?

You have credibility with me Doc. I respect people who ask for the opinions of other. Opinions may differ and can lead to interesting dialog.

I wait with baited breathe.
 
You could charge manually, which may work, but if the same groups go out of balance within a few charges, they'll always be weak and need to be monitored. You can get a 1S lipo charger from Amazon/ebay pretty cheap. If you're patient you could get the wall wart style, so no power supply needed, but those only output around 1A. I think the balance leads are at least good for a couple amps.
 
Yes--*if it has that function built in*. Not all of them do.

Do you see a row or rows of small SMD resistors and transistors, or a long section or sections of "identical" part shapes covered in "goop"? If so, it probably has balancing. If not, it may not (or the parts might be hidden under something else).

Balancing parts may look like all the stuff on the left side of this random google-find image
Bleeding-balancing-BMS[1].JPG

A non balancing BMS may look like this random example
BMS-exposed[1].jpg
even though it has similar parts in rows, they are just voltage detectors to tell the BMS when to turn on or off, not balancers. Newer technology probably won't have those on it, but rather one or more larger multipin chips that have all that logic in them.


Assuming it does, then given enough time on the charger, it will, but for a difference as great as what you have, with a nearly empty cell group and the rest nearly full, it could take weeks.

The balance shunting current is usually less than 50mA.

Assuming that, at best case, assuming the voltage of the pack is such that the charger flows 50mA thru the BMS, and the BMS can shunt that 50mA around all the other cells such that they don't keep charging (and cause BMS to shutoff for HVC and wait and drain them down again), but still continue charging the low group at 50mA, then in one hour that group will charge by 50mAh.

Let's assume each group is about 20Ah (it's probably less at this point in it's age), then that's 20,000mAh. Let's assume the low group has 10% charge, and the high groups have 90%. So the low group starts with 20,000 x 0.1 or 2Ah in it. That means it still has 18,000mAh to go.

18,000 / 50 = 360 hours. 360 / 24 = 15 days. Since the low group is likely much lower capacity than that (even if the others are still close to original), it would take that much less time, given all the above conditions otherwise.

It's likely that conditions won't really be like that though, and the closer-to-full cells will still keep filling, and when they reach full the BMS will shutoff, and then it has to drain those down to the restart-charge trigger point, and it will probably be less than the full shunting current, and the low group will not be charging at all during this time. When charging restarts it won't last long as the high cells fill up quickly again, so not much time for adding more charge to the low group.

The process will repeat until all cells have reached the BMS's cell-level HVC and stay there, then it will keep the charge port off and it's done. That may take a *very* long time for the difference in SoC your cells show.
 
amberwolf said:
Yes--*if it has that function built in*. Not all of them do.

Do you see a row or rows of small SMD resistors and transistors, or a long section or sections of "identical" part shapes covered in "goop"? If so, it probably has balancing. If not, it may not (or the parts might be hidden under something else).

...............

Appreciate the thoughtful well written response. Very interesting. I was under the impression that all bike BMS's were balancing type. So much to learn.

I would think that balancing is more critical as cells age. Maybe its my ignorance to real world battery philosophy but at this point in my knowledge gathering, it makes sense to me. :lol:

I guess I'll take mine off and open her up.
 
amberwolf said:
Yes--*if it has that function built in*. Not all of them do.

Do you see a row or rows of small SMD resistors and transistors, or a long section or sections of "identical" part shapes covered in "goop"? If so, it probably has balancing. If not, it may not (or the parts might be hidden under something else).

...............

Here's my BMS backside with plastic cover removed. Couldn't get the frontside cover plate off to look inside. Too much 'goop'. So whattcha think, balanced or no?
 

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mickyd said:
Here's my BMS backside with plastic cover removed. Couldn't get the frontside cover plate off to look inside. Too much 'goop'. So whattcha think, balanced or no?
Can't tell.

FWIW, the goop is probably heatsink paste (and possibly silicone glue) to ensure the charge and discharge FETs are cooled during use by thoroughly connecting them to the heatsink plate. Sometimes in good enough lighting you can get enough of a picture at an angle, under the edges of the plate, to see what's there, without removing the plate. Sometimes it's just not visible.

I also didn't truly post clearly enough previously, because there *are* balancing BMSes that do not use all the resistive shunts/transistors (bleeding / shunt / draining BMS), but instead use a kind of capacitive-charge-shuffling system that is controlled by the BMS MCU / chips.

I left this version out because it doesn't cause problems with draining a single cell (group) down like the resistive shunt type can, when one of the shunt transistors fails stuck on, which is one possible (though unlikely) cause of the situation your pack is in.

But it would still balance the pack over time on the charger, like the ohter (just in a different way, and potentially either taking longer or less time, depending on how it shuffles charge and by how much).
 
E-HP said:
You could charge manually, which may work, but if the same groups go out of balance within a few charges, they'll always be weak and need to be monitored. You can get a 1S lipo charger from Amazon/ebay pretty cheap. If you're patient you could get the wall wart style, so no power supply needed, but those only output around 1A. I think the balance leads are at least good for a couple amps.

Wondering if you could provide links to the types of chargers you're referring to above....1S lipo, and wall wart style. I want to make sure I'm looking at the right stuff.
 
No need to buy a 1S charger unless for convenience

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3713527-iCharger-balance-storage#post45491231

https://youtu.be/wIbHLacozFo
 
mickyd said:
E-HP said:
You could charge manually, which may work, but if the same groups go out of balance within a few charges, they'll always be weak and need to be monitored. You can get a 1S lipo charger from Amazon/ebay pretty cheap. If you're patient you could get the wall wart style, so no power supply needed, but those only output around 1A. I think the balance leads are at least good for a couple amps.

Wondering if you could provide links to the types of chargers you're referring to above....1S lipo, and wall wart style. I want to make sure I'm looking at the right stuff.

Here's an example from a quick Amazon search on 1S lipo chargers. This one is good for half an amp, and powered by USB:
https://www.amazon.com/Charging-Cable-Battery-Lithium-Charger/dp/Bs0838QQ5QN/ref=sr_1_47?crid=1PQWZPQEMVNY7&keywords=1s+lipo+charger&qid=1665673750&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjgxIiwicXNhIjoiNC4xOCIsInFzcCI6IjMuOTAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=1s+lipo+charger%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-47

I'll do a search on the wall wart style. I have a couple from little RC cars I've bought in the past, but you just need anything that outputs 4.2V.
 
E-HP said:
Here's an example from a quick Amazon search on 1S lipo chargers. This one is good for half an amp, and powered by USB:
https://www.amazon.com/Charging-Cable-Battery-Lithium-Charger/dp/Bs0838QQ5QN/ref=sr_1_47?crid=1PQWZPQEMVNY7&keywords=1s+lipo+charger&qid=1665673750&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjgxIiwicXNhIjoiNC4xOCIsInFzcCI6IjMuOTAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=1s+lipo+charger%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-47

I'll do a search on the wall wart style. I have a couple from little RC cars I've bought in the past, but you just need anything that outputs 4.2V.

That Amazon link didn't work. Was it pointing to something like this?
https://tinyurl.com/m3mj7uw

Those Amazon links are ridiculously long and prone to copy / paste errors. I always shorten them using the free site https://tinyurl.com/app/
 
mickyd said:
E-HP said:
Here's an example from a quick Amazon search on 1S lipo chargers. This one is good for half an amp, and powered by USB:
https://www.amazon.com/Charging-Cable-Battery-Lithium-Charger/dp/Bs0838QQ5QN/ref=sr_1_47?crid=1PQWZPQEMVNY7&keywords=1s+lipo+charger&qid=1665673750&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjgxIiwicXNhIjoiNC4xOCIsInFzcCI6IjMuOTAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=1s+lipo+charger%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-47

I'll do a search on the wall wart style. I have a couple from little RC cars I've bought in the past, but you just need anything that outputs 4.2V.

That Amazon link didn't work. Was it pointing to something like this?
https://tinyurl.com/m3mj7uw

Those Amazon links are ridiculously long and prone to copy / paste errors. I always shorten them using the free site https://tinyurl.com/app/

Yes, that would work. This is one like I tried to link to. Hopefully the link works:
https://www.amazon.com/flite-USB-Li-Po-Charger-500mA/dp/B00IRF3CA0/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2BBHGR0W1PA4Q&keywords=1s+lipo+charger+usb&qid=1665678852&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjkyIiwicXNhIjoiMi42NiIsInFzcCI6IjEuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=1s+lipo+charger+%2Caps%2C730&sr=8-10
 
E-HP said:
Yes, that would work. This is one like I tried to link to. Hopefully the link works:
https://www.amazon.com/flite-USB-Li-Po-Charger-500mA/dp/B00IRF3CA0/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2BBHGR0W1PA4Q&keywords=1s+lipo+charger+usb&qid=1665678852&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjkyIiwicXNhIjoiMi42NiIsInFzcCI6IjEuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=1s+lipo+charger+%2Caps%2C730&sr=8-10

Thanks for that USB style link. I like that one better.

Now that I am better understanding the 1S charging concept, I think I found a 'wall wart' style you referred to earlier. Didn't even know what a wall wart version was until you mentioned it. I actually thought you had originally typo'd 'Walmart'!! :lol:

https://www.amazon.com/iCreatin-Adaptor-Lithium-Battery-Automatically/dp/B07S21YNRG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3KXXJQW0FC0SB&keywords=4.2+volt+charger&qid=1665679579&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjUxIiwicXNhIjoiMi41NSIsInFzcCI6IjIuMzAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=4.2+volt+charger%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVTJJWlVJWjdMQVZFJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjI4MTkyMzBVWlVESDgwNEs3MCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODU0MjYzT05MVjRJS0lDWlNZJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
 
mickyd said:
E-HP said:
Yes, that would work. This is one like I tried to link to. Hopefully the link works:
https://www.amazon.com/flite-USB-Li-Po-Charger-500mA/dp/B00IRF3CA0/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2BBHGR0W1PA4Q&keywords=1s+lipo+charger+usb&qid=1665678852&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjkyIiwicXNhIjoiMi42NiIsInFzcCI6IjEuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=1s+lipo+charger+%2Caps%2C730&sr=8-10

Thanks for that USB style link. I like that one better.

Now that I am better understanding the 1S charging concept, I think I found a 'wall wart' style you referred to earlier. Didn't even know what a wall wart version was until you mentioned it. I actually thought you had originally typo'd 'Walmart'!! :lol:

https://www.amazon.com/iCreatin-Adaptor-Lithium-Battery-Automatically/dp/B07S21YNRG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3KXXJQW0FC0SB&keywords=4.2+volt+charger&qid=1665679579&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIyLjUxIiwicXNhIjoiMi41NSIsInFzcCI6IjIuMzAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=4.2+volt+charger%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExVTJJWlVJWjdMQVZFJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMjI4MTkyMzBVWlVESDgwNEs3MCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODU0MjYzT05MVjRJS0lDWlNZJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Ya, that should work. Hopefully you get the weak groups up to match the others. If you go through a few charge cycles after that, and they stay in balance, then you should be fine.
 
mickyd said:
Those Amazon links are ridiculously long and prone to copy / paste errors.

You can always shorten the link to just the part up to and including the ASIN, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Charging-Cable-Battery-Lithium-Charger/dp/Bs0838QQ5QN
and it will always at least take you to the root product page. I've never had one shortened this way not work yet. If the product has multiple options but only one ASIN this will only bring you to the first one, but you can then just pick the desired option from the page's icons or list or whatever. :)
 
amberwolf said:
mickyd said:
Those Amazon links are ridiculously long and prone to copy / paste errors.

You can always shorten the link to just the part up to and including the ASIN, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Charging-Cable-Battery-Lithium-Charger/dp/Bs0838QQ5QN
and it will always at least take you to the root product page. I've never had one shortened this way not work yet. If the product has multiple options but only one ASIN this will only bring you to the first one, but you can then just pick the desired option from the page's icons or list or whatever. :)
That link doesn't open in Chrome. :confused:
 
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