Help with battery to motor connector !

Otnycc

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Link to reddit post here: https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/xnxmd4/help_with_battery_to_motor_connector/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf
 
Otnycc said:
Link to reddit post here: https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/xnxmd4/help_with_battery_to_motor_connector/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

Page won't open in my browser. What is the question / problem?
 
amberwolf said:
Otnycc said:
Link to reddit post here: https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/xnxmd4/help_with_battery_to_motor_connector/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

Page won't open in my browser. What is the question / problem?

I tried uploading an image but I don’t know how to, basically the problem is somehow the connector between my hub motor and the battery got ripped apart resulting in the cable from the battery ripping out the socket from the hub connector. I need help identifying the connectors and i was wondering if instead of replacing the hub motor and battery cable etc I can solder new connectors on the ends of the cables.
 
What specific system or bike do you have? The very little I can see of the bike, wheel, tire, etc., reminds me of the A2B metro (see further down this post).

If it's a prebuilt (OEM) bike, some of them have proprietary connectors not available to us as end users. If so, you'd have to replace both connectors with a different kind that has enough pins and enough current-carrying ability.

If it's a DIY bike then links to the parts purchased to do it with may help us help you find the right connectors, and possibly troubleshoot any problems created by the damage.


But if you don't care if they are original connectors, then as long as we can figure out which wires on each end of the connector pair are supposed to hook up to each other, you could use any connector pair that supports the current required, and has enough pins. The easiest way to replace the connectors as a pair is to use an extension cable and cut it in half, then wire one half to the motor cable and the other half to the other cable.

This would work for most hubmotor systems
https://ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/connectors/l10-ext-fmk.html



BTW:

Most hubmotors don't connect to the battery. They connect to the controller, which in turn connects to the battery.

The motor - controller connector usually has three thick pins (phase wires), and five or six thin ones (hall sensor wires). Some only have three thick ones (phase wires for sensorless).

Your image as uploaded by ebuilder looks a lot more like that kind of connector than a typical controller-battery connector, which usually has just two wires, (positive and negative), but some have data or other pins that are required to make the system operate (communicates battery status to controller to enable the system or disable it to prevent problems and/or fires).


But there are some OEM systems, like Stromer, and old A2B's, that used the Ultramotor with an internal controller, and those had a cable from the display and battery that had multiple pins in it. (that also has a thread-on sleeve to keep them from unplugging and aid in water-resistance). (but it only had four large pins in it, no small ones, IIRC)

The only pic I could quickly find in a google image search is this that shows the cable connector for the ultramotor version that does not have the internal controller (and so is like regular hubmotors), and it might be like yours; it's hard to tell from the solder side like yours shows. If you can unscrew the connectors from each other and pull them apart so we can see the actual mating ends, it may help match them to new ones better.
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1318/2989/products/620021543000_5_large.jpg?v=1579479701


EDIT: I found a pic I took of the connector that came on the old A2B ultramotor I'm using on the SB Cruiser trike, you can compare this to what you have there once you unscrew the connectors from each other and pull them apart. If it's the same as yours, then at least we'll know what system it came from in case you don't know what yours is.
20220325_182037.jpg
I think I still have the connector itself with an inch or so of wire on it if it's the same as yours and you want it, it could be mailed to you in an envelope most likely (assuming I can find it). Not sure there's enough wire left to solder to, though, but at least you can match up wire colors if yours is also an A2B Metro Ultramotor.


There are probably other OEM systems that do similar things that I haven't seen.



If the system was powered on and/or running when the damage occured, such as a crash while riding, then if any wires shorted together it may have damaged parts inside the device at either end of the wire, depending on whcih wires shorted.

If no power was applied (battery was disconnected or turned off internally) then additional damage is a lot less likely.



To upload a picture, click the Attachments tab below where you type your post, and Add Files button. A window comes up for you to browse to where your pictures are stored and choose them, one at a time or select a bunch at once. When it's uploading it'l show a progress bar on each one to the right of the filename, and when it's done it'll show a new button "place inline", that you can use to put a picture in a specific place in your post, but you don't have to do anything--once it's uploaded they'll all show up at the end of the post anyway. They'll automatically be resized to fit the forum so you don't have to do that..
 
amberwolf said:
If the system was powered on and/or running when the damage occured, such as a crash while riding, then if any wires shorted together it may have damaged parts inside the device at either end of the wire, depending on whcih wires shorted.

I guess one question would be, what real world situation could occur that would result in all of the phase and hall conductors to de-solder themselves from the connector, leaving no trace of broken wires, etc. Maybe the phases could heat up enough, but the halls too? Attaching a new connector won't solve that issue, whatever it is.
 
E-HP said:
I guess one question would be, what real world situation could occur that would result in all of the phase and hall conductors to de-solder themselves from the connector, leaving no trace of broken wires, etc. Maybe the phases could heat up enough, but the halls too? Attaching a new connector won't solve that issue, whatever it is.
To me, they don't look desoldered, they look like the wires ripped off the solder joints as the whole connector end pulled out of the shell. I've seen the same kind of damage on various devices people have given me to fix over the years, usually when they tripped over something (like sound-system wiring) and destroyed it. :lol:


If there were a failure that actually desoldered the wires, it would probably have melted the connector shell plastic first and allowed the pins to pull out of the plastic along with the wire, leaving melted holes--that's what I've seen with poor connections on battery wires on ebikes (and other high current things like big amplifiers, etc.).

Sometimes it does just desolder a wire...but that's usually in an open-back shell, rather than an overmolded one, and it usually just desolders the heavy-gauge wire(s) with the high current flowing.
 
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