Stealth bomber clone, 12kw shurdown

Bikestick

10 mW
Joined
Apr 24, 2019
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34
I am building a bomber clone. MQCON Sabvoton 150a, 72v,12000w. I used blue tooth. I get connection error 30H.
 
I bought a new kit for a new stealth bomber clone build frome ebay. It's a Sabvoton MQCON sine-wave 72v,150a for my 12kw motor. When start up the display says cumunication error 30H. Anyway I bought another controler the same but it came with a different plug and a white wire extra with 6 wires. Moy motor plug is 5 wires and no white. I don't know what the white wire is for the other controller didn't have one.
 
I bought a sabvoton MQCON 72v,150a,12kw kit for a new stealth bomber build. SVMC72150(M). The controller works when it wants to and shuts down when it wants to. I purchased another from ebay all the same specs and looks the same. It has different connectors but I can change them. The first one has a 5 pin display connector. The second one doesn't have a display connector. Now I don't know what to do.
 

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This is my 3rd bomber clone. Lots of problems with this one. Sabvoton 72v,150a SVMC72150(M) controller. Qsmotor 12kw ,19in wheel. I get error code 30,connection error. Then it would come on and run and always shutdown after a few miles.error code30 then screen goes black and still can't do a hall sensor test. I put a 8kw controller on and it runs but nothing is registering to display from motor and still can't do hall sensor test. Noticed ticking noise in hub motor. Not sure what to do next.
 

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This is my 3rd bomber clone. Lots of problems with this one. Sabvoton 72v,150a SVMC72150(M) controller. Qsmotor 12kw ,19in wheel. I get error code 30,connection error. Then it would come on and run and always shutdown after a few miles.error code30 then screen goes black and still can't do a hall sensor test. I put a 8kw controller on and it runs but nothing is registering to display from motor and still can't do hall sensor test. Noticed ticking noise in hub motor. Not sure what to do next.
 

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This is a new build. 150a, 12kw,72v. After I received the battery it shuts down every ride mostly after it gets down to 75% or lower. I thought maybe a bad battery so and the battery company won't respond. So I bought another from a local store. 35ah. It shuts down also. so I bought a new controller and it still shuts down. The last time I pushed it home as always ,put a charger on it for 20 minutes, unplged it and it came back at 80% battery. Is it possible that there is some thing wrong with the hub motor that it is drawing to much energy and the BMS shuts down?
 

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The most likely problem is a battery that is simply incapable of handling the current demand, for any of a number of reasons. The motor (or controller) wouldn't be the cause, unless it's simply that the battery isn't made to handle the power required to operate it, or the controller LVC is not set correctly for the battery being used (or the battery being used is not high enough voltage for the controller)..

Is power completely shutting off? If so, it's the BMS trying to protect the battery against damage that could lead to a fire.

Or is the controller simply stopping motor operation? If so, it's probably the controller LVC set too high for the battery being used, so when voltage drops below that, the controller stops responding to prevent overdischarging the battery it thinks it has (vs the one that's actualy there).

What are the complete battery specifications, for the original battery? A link to the sale page may show us helpful info.

What are the complete battery specifications, for the second battery? A link to the sale page may show us helpful info.

Note that if the only specs you have for the batteries are their voltage and capacity, we'd definitely need links to the sale pages to get the rest of the info from there. If those pages don't have that info, then it is safest to assume the batteries are incapable, and that you'd need to buy a battery capable of handling a minimum of whatever the current limit on the controller is set to.

What specific controller did you originally have, and how is it setup (programmed), if it has any settings? A link to the sale page may show us helpful info.

What specific controller do you now have, and how is it setup (programmed), if it has any settings? A link to the sale page may show us helpful info.



If the batteries are capable per their specs (and it is them rather than the controller shutting down) then they are defective and would need to be repaired to make them meet their specs and work correctly on your system. This may be possible depending on your experience and/or willingness to learn (and possibly break things; it can happen in troubleshooting).


If it's really 12kw, then at nominal 72v it's a battery current of 167A to do that. (less when it's full voltage). As voltage drops it would take more current to do the same work, if the controller is setup to do that, so it could be harder on the battery as it gets closer to empty. (150A at 72v is only about 10.8kw)

Do you have a wattmeter on the bike, to see what the actual Amps, Watts, and Voltage are? (seeing the peak Amps and Watts, and the lowest Voltage (Vmin) is often useful in cases like this, to know how much voltage sag there is at what level of current draw.)

If you don't have one you can get one pretty cheap, though they aren't waterproof so you may have to come up with a housing for it. I bought this one (but haven't tested it yet):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS
it's only good to 100A but they make ones that go to 200A+ that would work for your system.

I use teh Cycle Analyst v3 from http://ebikes.ca every day on my SB Cruiser trike, but it isn't cheap (because it is a lot more than just a wattmeter...but it is a very good wattmeter, too).





Bikestick said:
This is a new build. 150a, 12kw,72v. After I received the battery it shuts down every ride mostly after it gets down to 75% or lower. I thought maybe a bad battery so and the battery company won't respond. So I bought another from a local store. 35ah. It shuts down also. so I bought a new controller and it still shuts down. The last time I pushed it home as always ,put a charger on it for 20 minutes, unplged it and it came back at 80% battery. Is it possible that there is some thing wrong with the hub motor that it is drawing to much energy and the BMS shuts down?
 
The clicking sound is likely a broken Honeywell sensor. I made a YouTube video when I had the same problem.

https://youtu.be/MShXvr1Qhy0
https://youtu.be/FvmmsGdEQCg

I fixed the problem by switching to a sensor less controller and doing a phase wire upgrade.

You can also buy an ebike hub motor tester that will show you if you have a broken sensor and which one.

https://em3ev.com/shop/ebike-tester/

So replace the broken sensor or.. just switch to a SensorLESS Controller from Lyen and with the saved space from the 5 sensor wires, you can upgrade your phase wires if you need to.

Hope that helps! And fantastic looking build!
 
I have a similar problem on a custom ebike that I build. It has a qs205 t5 motor with a sabvoton svmc72150 controller. Originally I had a 72v 40ah battery, made from BAK 18650 3350mAh 6.5A cells. When I first tested the bike everything was working fine and I was able to get speeds of up to 54mph all the way until 70v, and then went down to about 45 up until 65v. After some time I started getting cut offs when the battery voltage dropped below 72v. When I twist the throttle hard it cuts off and the voltage on the display starts getting low and then the display turns off too. I was able to start it again couple of more times, but it kept doing the same thing, untill I was unable to turn it on again. I replaced the battery with a 72v 36ah battery website. Same thing, when battery voltage drops to 72v the bike shuts down. I am able to restart the breaker and then the bike goes again, but when I twist the throttle harder it shuts off.
 
Same things I said above apply.

Since in your case it worked fine then stopped working with no other reported changes (no controller reprogramming or setup done), it probably means the controller LVC changed. Why it changed on it's own I have no idea--it would make much more sense if you had done some other changes and *then* the LVC changed at the same time, as an accidental byproduct of the changes.


To verify / fix this, you would need to run the controller setup software to check what it is presently set to, and then reset it to the correct setting for your battery pack(s).
 
This is my 3rd bomber clone. Lots of problems with this one. Sabvoton 72v,150a SVMC72150(M) controller. Qsmotor 12kw ,19in wheel. I get error code 30,connection error. Then it would come on and run and always shutdown after a few miles.error code30 then screen goes black and still can't do a hall sensor test. I put a 8kw controller on and it runs but nothing is registering to display from motor and still can't do hall sensor test. Noticed ticking noise in hub motor. Not sure what to do next.
Sounds like what happened to me twice now. First was a 30H and next was a 02H. Take the rear tire off and check the phase wire by the disc brake. Both times this happened to me, the Phase wires were cut by the disc brake and so close to the hole. I can't seem to find a way to repair them or run the cable properly to avoid this issue..

The other possibility: There is a connection that goes from the controller to the display. between that is a three wire connection to allow you to change settings in the bluetooth app if that is disconnected. I noticed my wires were not secure in the housing and literally slipped out of the plug. I cut the connection and soldered the wires... I do not recommend doing this if you plan on making changes to the controller settings or accidently reset the settings before soldering like I did.. but it did resolve my 30H issues until my Phase wires got cut.

I am hesitant to buy a third motor as I already swapped a stator which ran me another $400 and the vendor didn't honor the warranty both times. I think my next step is to upgrade to a mid-drive or ditch the enduro frame all together and go back to E-MTB builds.
 
I bought a new kit for a new stealth bomber clone build frome ebay. It's a Sabvoton MQCON sine-wave 72v,150a for my 12kw motor. When start up the display says cumunication error 30H. Anyway I bought another controler the same but it came with a different plug and a white wire extra with 6 wires. Moy motor plug is 5 wires and no white. I don't know what the white wire is for the other controller didn't have one.
What is your rear tire size and motor turns please let me know
 
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