Trouble shooting old Currie Eflow ebike

Joined
Nov 29, 2022
Messages
13
I am in need of help, I have a Currie eflow E3nitro ebike. Company is no longer in business and I am unable to find a replacement same eflow display for sale inline. The display connection looks like a CA 8 pin connection, and unable to find a new display with the same pin connection.
Is there anyone here that may have a eflow display for sale. I am also looking into replacing the display and connection with an up to date display and connection if that is possible. But I am afraid of damaging or losing the ebike functionality.
I have ordered a V3 Direct Plug Cycle Analyst with Waterproof 8 Pin HiGo CA Plug for Ready-to-Roll Kits from Grin Technology wesite: ebike.ca.. I hope that this will be the display I need to get it up and running again.

If anyone has any thoughts or ideas to help it would be greatly appreciated, thank you
 
The Cycle Analyst is not a display, and will not do what you need it to do. You may damage it and/or your controller by connecting it in place of your original display, as the wiring will not match as the functions are not the same.

The CA is a complete computer system that takes a set of inputs from it's various sensor and control plugs, processes them all via the settings you've chosen in it's menus, and outputs a single throttle signal to send to a "dumb" controller's throttle input in place of it's original throttle.

It does not communicate in any way with the controller, either sending or receiving data.


The display you need has to be the same kind (same brand/model) as the original, with the same firmware as well as the same wiring, in order to work with your system. Displays are not generally inter-compatible between systems, so it is unlikely any other display will work on your system. If you tried enough of them, with the right wiring and signals (so that you don't electrically damage your system or the display), you might find some that display certain things but not others, but any menus they have for settings and whatnot, or assist levels, etc., are unlikely to be able to tell the controller to do anything it understands, so it probably wont' respond to any input from them.


It is likley that if you need to replace the display, you would have to also replace the controller at the same time, using a "kit" that has both parts. The KT series of controllers and displays are popular because they are fairly configurable, if your system uses a brushless (BLDC) motor (and not a brushed motor). Depends on the specific functions you need your bike to perform, and what other equipment it has, and whether things like the battery are locked to the system by the bike manufacturer.


FWIW, unless your display is physically broken, it is more commonly a wiring or connection problem that causes display problems. What specific problem does your system exhibit?
 
I don't know the OP's problem, but I know the problem with a Currie equipped Izip bike that was donated to my community bike shop. The rubber buttons on the display panel had turned to grody putty and fallen out.

For about a year and a half, I've been checking in periodically on the Izip website and submitting a request for technical support. I never got any reply or confirmation of my request, and now I have a better clue as to why.

Let this nonsense be a lesson to those who buy turnkey e-bikes with closed proprietary systems. They will let you down; it's only a question of when. Don't be a fool-- either rent an e-bike when you want one, so the maintenance isn't your problem; or buy/build an e-bike that will be serviceable and upgradeable indefinitely. "Buying" a bike that will have either unavailable or extortionate replacement parts in the future is a chump's game.
 
Chalo said:
I don't know the OP's problem, but I know the problem with a Currie equipped Izip bike that was donated to my community bike shop. The rubber buttons on the display panel had turned to grody putty and fallen out.
For problems like that, I've found goodwill/etc to be a great source of replacement buttons, in the buckets of remote controls they often have. ;)

They're not always a perfect fit, but they usually can be made to do the job, when no other part is available and you really need the thing to work.
 
amberwolf said:
The Cycle Analyst is not a display, and will not do what you need it to do. You may damage it and/or your controller by connecting it in place of your original display, as the wiring will not match as the functions are not the same.
That you for the information, after disassembling the wiring of the bike I found the controller mounted in the downtube, which was toast. I bought a juliet quick connect KT controller, new display and 1to4 juliet splitter. I am having to replace all the wiring as it is all an older set up from 2014 that is not compatible with the juliet connectors. I have ran into new issue with the connection form the motor to the controller motor is a big higo female connection and the controller is a small female juliet. I can't seen to find an adaptor to connect the two together. I thought of soldering two extention cables together 9 wires in all, but I am not the great a soldering. Second though was just take the hub to a bike shop and see if they could replace the higo with a juliet connector then the problem would be solved.
 
Chalo said:
I don't know the OP's problem, but I know the problem with a Currie equipped Izip bike that was donated to my community bike shop. The rubber buttons on the display panel had turned to grody putty and fallen out.
The ebike would be my daily commuter to and from work, 8 miles round trip. I figured $200 for an ebike what could go wrong, the fact the the company is no longer in business and you can't find parts for them is the problem. I have gutted all the electronic parts and wiring and has turned a $200 bike into a $200 in parts not including the battery yet, nightmare. Replacing all the old wiring, controller which was inside the downtube and new display. In all I have decided to finish the project, but next time I will just by a bike and a conversation kit. It would be a hell of a lot easier the to upgrade a factory built ebike.
 
amberwolf said:
Chalo said:
I don't know the OP's problem, but I know the problem with a Currie equipped Izip bike that was donated to my community bike shop. The rubber buttons on the display panel had turned to grody putty and fallen out.
For problems like that, I've found goodwill/etc to be a great source of replacement buttons, in the buckets of remote controls they often have. ;)

That's where I got the bike, lol. I called them up to see is they had found the display for the bike before endeavoring on upgrading wiring, controller and new display. Yes, sometimes we get lucky and find parts we can use, but no luck here.
 
kevinkelley702@gmail.com said:
I am in need of help, I have a Currie eflow E3nitro ebike. Company is no longer in business and I am unable to find a replacement same eflow display for sale online. The display connection looks like a CA 8 pin metal thread barrel connection, and unable to find a new display with the same pin connection.
Is there anyone here that may have a eflow display for sale. I am also looking into replacing the display and connection with an up to date display and connection if that is possible. But I am afraid of damaging or losing the ebike functionality.
I have ordered a V3 Direct Plug Cycle Analyst with Waterproof 8 Pin HiGo CA Plug for Ready-to-Roll Kits from Grin Technology wesite: ebike.ca.. I hope that this will be the display I need to get it up and running again.

If anyone has any thoughts or ideas to help it would be greatly appreciated, thank you
 
Update... I have gutted the wiring and now using the bike as a base/upgrade. Juliet wiring, kt quick connect controller, and a new display. I am a novice at solving and have found crimp connectors are my best friend for this build. Battery will need to be replaced with another 36v maybe a 48v with 10ah as not to overload he 36v 500watt motor. 48v×10ah=480watts. I could go with a 48v 12ah which would be 576 which isn't too much for the motor. But a 10ah will be just fine.
My problem now lies in the connection between the controller, which is the juliet motor connector to the motors higo connection. I have looked online for adapters which I have not found a juliet to higo. So I think I either make one myself or take the motor in a shop and have them replace the higo with a up-to-date juliet connection.

I am sure as you can read I am an amateur at best when it comes to ebikes, and like you have spend hours online looking at parts and forms. Trying to learn terms and names. I never knew there where so many adaptation, styles, and sizes to the wiring. It makes myhead hurt searching at times, but I keep at it. I will complete this bike build.
 
kevinkelley702@gmail.com said:
The ebike would be my daily commuter to and from work, 8 miles round trip. I figured $200 for an ebike what could go wrong, the fact the the company is no longer in business and you can't find parts for them is the problem. I have gutted all the electronic parts and wiring and has turned a $200 bike into a $200 in parts not including the battery yet, nightmare. Replacing all the old wiring, controller which was inside the downtube and new display. In all I have decided to finish the project, but next time I will just by a bike and a conversation kit. It would be a hell of a lot easier the to upgrade a factory built ebike.
Unfortunately, that's generally true. Most used bikes, if not fully working, even if they were DIY conversions rather than OEM, will require significant DIY work to adapt parts, or replacing significant amounts of the original parts with new ones just to get them to work together. (sometimes you can make a system work without some original part, like the display, by wiring around the power-on control so it is always on when the battery is installed, but you then lose the ability to change from the default assist levels or any other default settings in the controller at power-on...sometimes that is fine, and sometimes unusable).

Sometimes the parts you know you can still use on it are worth the money and trouble of replacing those you can't, but this is fairly rare. :(

Any system (OEM or DIY) with a "dumb" headless controller that doesn't have a display is going to be a lot easier to deal with than one that requires a display to access settings/assist levels/etc., though the headless controllers like that don't have any options or settings (that a user can change), so they are what they are at power-on.

Which system to choose depends on the usage it will be put to...for throttle-only usage, headless dumb systems work perfectly well; for typical pedal-controlled (PAS) systems it's helpful to have a way to configure the assist levels. Then there are the more advanced systems like using a Cycle Analyst from http://ebikes.ca to read all your sensors and process the inputs via your settings to run a headless dumb controller pretty much exactly the way you want it, or the various FOC controllers that are highly configurable via apps or computer-based setup programs.

kevinkelley702@gmail.com said:
Battery will need to be replaced with another 36v maybe a 48v with 10ah as not to overload he 36v 500watt motor. 48v×10ah=480watts. I could go with a 48v 12ah which would be 576 which isn't too much for the motor. But a 10ah will be just fine.
There are a few misunderstandings above:
--a battery does not overload a motor; the motor can overload the battery (or rather, the load placed on the motor by the riding style, terrain, wind, etc can cause the motor/controller system to overload the battery). Depends mostly on the load, and on the controller's current limit.

The battery will need to be whatever voltage the controller requires. If it's not high enough voltage, the controller will not operate, as it has a safety feature to prevent draining the battery too far (LVC). Note that the battery voltage, when at full throttle, directly affects the top speed of the motor assuming no speed limiting in the controller. So a 48v battery will spin a motor proportionally faster than a 36v battery, by the ratio of 48:36, giving a potentially faster top speed assuming no controller speed limiting and assuming enough power (watts) to the ground from the wheel to go that speed on your terrain, wind, and aerodynamic air resistance. (you can play with the simulator at http://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html to see how this can work).

Watts isn't determined by Ah (which is only capacity). It is determined by Amps (current), x Volts. The battery may have a maximum continuous current (A) it can output, and a peak A. You would determine Watts by the continuous A x the average (nominal) battery voltage (48v or 36v in the example cases).

Capacity (Ah) you need is determined by how much range you need, and how much current you draw during the ride. It's usually done with Wh rather than Ah, so you multiply the Ah x the voltage to get the Wh (which is also capacity). Typical pedal-speed operation in the 10-20mph range on flat ground with no wind is in the 10-20Wh/mile range (sometimes less), depending on how much you contribute to power by pedalling vs how much the motor does. If you have hills, wind, or ride faster, or like to accellerate harder and/or don't pedal at all, power usage can be a lot more. Not knowing your usage, riding style, terrain, or winds, we'll go with 20Wh/mile.

So for 8 miles of range, plus say 50% (4 miles) to account for potential detours, headwinds, and pack aging over time (which loses capacity over the years), that would be 12miles x 20Wh/mile, or 240Wh. If you have a 48v battery, that is 240Wh / 48v = 5Ah. A 36v battery would be 240 / 36 = 6.7Ah.

That's assuming you get a good quality battery from a reputable seller that can output high enough current without straining the cells; a cheap battery is unlikely to do that (it's cells are cheaper, sometimes not new, usually not matched, and generally less capable). You don't specify what your new controller is or link to it, so we'll just guess that it has a 20A current limit to approximately match a 500w motor on a 48v battery. If it pulls a max of 20A, then when you are riding at a speed under conditions that require enough power, the battery must be able to supply that 20A without being stressed. A 5Ah battery would have to be a "4C" rated battery (pretty good cells, though not the best out there), to do that when new (as it ages it gets less capable, so a 6C+ battery might still do it as it gets old). This is where it gets a little confusing, because I said Ah isn't amps...but in this case, A is derived from Ah by multiplying by the "C" rate of the battery, so 5Ah x 4C = 20A (loses the "h" here).

It's usually cheaper to just get a bigger battery, so a 10Ah or higher would probably be fine, since even most cheap cells can do 2C (which would give you 20A capability with a 10Ah battery when it's new).

There may be other considerations, depending on your riding conditions/etc; you can play with that simulator linked above to see how things interact with each other.


My problem now lies in the connection between the controller, which is the juliet motor connector to the motors higo connection. I have looked online for adapters which I have not found a juliet to higo. So I think I either make one myself or take the motor in a shop and have them replace the higo with a up-to-date juliet connection.

Note that it is "Julet" not "Juliet", which may aid your searches...but to make it more confusing, sellers often use Julet and Higo interchangeably, so looking for the specific "connector part number" may be better. This page has the major ones listed here:
https://ebikes.ca/learn/connectors.html
I'm going to guess the controller has this one
HiGo Z910
https://ebikes.ca/learn/connectors.html#HiGoZ910
but there are multiple types that fit your description of the motor end.
If you can't find the cable you need, you may be able to have ebikes.ca make one for you, or you can order the matching end to plug into the motor and change the cable on the controller to match (it's easier to open and solder inside the controller than the motor), or you can cut and splice somewhere in the cable itself for either motor or controller with the matching end for the other one.

For splicing, these are handy:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R4Z13P3
I'm sure there are smaller cheaper kits with just the sizes you'd need for the specific wires you need to connect.

I recommend you stagger the connections so they are not next to each other; this will both make the total cable thickness at the splice smaller, and help prevent shorts between splices should insulation on them fail or any of them ever come undone.
https://trucktractor6x4.tpub.com/TM-9-2320-302-20/img/TM-9-2320-302-20_187_1.jpg
TM-9-2320-302-20_187_1[1].jpg

Then you can use wrap like this to seal the spliced area against weather
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-1-in-x-3-33-yd-Stretch-and-Seal-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Tape-in-Black-1743082/100206050
there are a bunch of variations of that kind of thing.

(the links above are just examples; you can probably find better deals or better products).
 
I have gutted the wiring and now using the bike as a base/upgrade. Juliet wiring, kt quick connect controller, and a new display. I am a novice at solving and have found crimp connectors are my best friend for this build. Battery will need to be replaced with another 36v maybe a 48v with 10ah as not to overload he 36v 500watt motor. 48v×10ah=480watts. I could go with a 48v 12ah which would be 576 which isn't too much for the motor. But a 10ah will be just fine.
My problem now lies in the connection between the controller, which is the juliet motor connector to the motors higo connection. I have looked online for adapters which I have not found a juliet to higo. So I think I either make one myself or take the motor in a shop and have them replace the higo with a up-to-date juliet connection.

I am sure as you can read I am an amateur at best when it comes to ebikes, and like you have spend hours online looking at parts and forms. Trying to learn terms and names. I never knew there where so many adaptation, styles, and sizes to the wiring. It makes myhead hurt searching at times, but I keep at it. I will complete this bike build one way or another.
 
The 9 wire motor cable is difficult to solder and maintain a tght bundle that will slip thru the typical 12mm axle nut. The thinner sensor wires are easy. Just do a twist type butt splice, and cover with heat shrink, Cannot do that with the heavy phase wires unless you don't mind a thick "bandange".

I've found that small brass or copper tubes make good forms to hold both ends of the phase wires. Fill with solder and cover with heat shrink.What I use are the froms inside the 18G-20G crimps. Buy six for $5. Heat them with a pencil tip iron and the metal pushes out.,
solder1_edited-1.jpg
solder2.JPG
solder3.JPG

And you want to offset these splices as shown by AW.
 
kevinkelley702@gmail.com said:
Battery will need to be replaced with another 36v maybe a 48v with 10ah as not to overload he 36v 500watt motor. 48v×10ah=480watts. I could go with a 48v 12ah which would be 576 which isn't too much for the motor. But a 10ah will be just fine.

Volts x Amps = Watts (Power)
Volts x Amp-hours = Watt-hours (Energy)
 
docw009 said:
I've found that small brass or copper tubes make good forms to hold both ends of the phase wires. Fill with solder and cover with heat shrink.What I use are the froms inside the 18G-20G crimps. Buy six for $5. Heat them with a pencil tip iron and the metal pushes out.
Why not simply crimp them?
 
99t4 said:
Why not simply crimp them?
You could do that but you wind up with a really fat bundle of splices. The idea was to keep the spliced section as thin as possible.
You could crimp just the core part if you had the right crimping tool. I prefer soldering just because there is less chance of corrosion and bad connection later on.
 
Yes understood. I had misread docw009's method as soldering the wires inside of a crimp sleeve after removing the outer insulation.

BTW, non-insulated crimp sleeves are widely available:
https://www.morrisproducts.com/pc_product_detail.asp?key=075911662226440CB4FD90609461D6D6
 
amberwolf said:
kevinkelley702@gmail.com said:
The ebike would be my daily commuter to and from work, 8 miles round trip. I figured $200 for an ebike what could go wrong, the fact the the company is no longer in business and you can't find parts for them is the problem. I have gutted all the electronic parts and wiring and has turned a $200 bike into a $200 in parts not including the battery yet, nightmare. Replacing all the old wiring, controller which was inside the downtube and new display. In all I have decided to finish the project, but next time I will just by a bike and a conversation kit. It would be a hell of a lot easier the to upgrade a factory built ebike.
Unfortunately, that's generally true. Most used bikes, if not fully working, even if they were DIY conversions rather than OEM, will require significant DIY work to adapt parts, or replacing significant amounts of the original parts with new ones just to get them to work together. (sometimes you can make a system work without some original part, like the display, by wiring around the power-on control so it is always on when the battery is installed, but you then lose the ability to change from the default assist levels or any other default settings in the controller at power-on...sometimes that is fine, and sometimes unusable).

Sometimes the parts you know you can still use on it are worth the money and trouble of replacing those you can't, but this is fairly rare. :(

Any system (OEM or DIY) with a "dumb" headless controller that doesn't have a display is going to be a lot easier to deal with than one that requires a display to access settings/assist levels/etc., though the headless controllers like that don't have any options or settings (that a user can change), so they are what they are at power-on.

Which system to choose depends on the usage it will be put to...for throttle-only usage, headless dumb systems work perfectly well; for typical pedal-controlled (PAS) systems it's helpful to have a way to configure the assist levels. Then there are the more advanced systems like using a Cycle Analyst from http://ebikes.ca to read all your sensors and process the inputs via your settings to run a headless dumb controller pretty much exactly the way you want it, or the various FOC controllers that are highly configurable via apps or computer-based setup programs.

kevinkelley702@gmail.com said:
Battery will need to be replaced with another 36v maybe a 48v with 10ah as not to overload he 36v 500watt motor. 48v×10ah=480watts. I could go with a 48v 12ah which would be 576 which isn't too much for the motor. But a 10ah will be just fine.
There are a few misunderstandings above:
--a battery does not overload a motor; the motor can overload the battery (or rather, the load placed on the motor by the riding style, terrain, wind, etc can cause the motor/controller system to overload the battery). Depends mostly on the load, and on the controller's current limit.

The battery will need to be whatever voltage the controller requires. If it's not high enough voltage, the controller will not operate, as it has a safety feature to prevent draining the battery too far (LVC). Note that the battery voltage, when at full throttle, directly affects the top speed of the motor assuming no speed limiting in the controller. So a 48v battery will spin a motor proportionally faster than a 36v battery, by the ratio of 48:36, giving a potentially faster top speed assuming no controller speed limiting and assuming enough power (watts) to the ground from the wheel to go that speed on your terrain, wind, and aerodynamic air resistance. (you can play with the simulator at http://ebikes.ca/tools/simulator.html to see how this can work).

Watts isn't determined by Ah (which is only capacity). It is determined by Amps (current), x Volts. The battery may have a maximum continuous current (A) it can output, and a peak A. You would determine Watts by the continuous A x the average (nominal) battery voltage (48v or 36v in the example cases).

Capacity (Ah) you need is determined by how much range you need, and how much current you draw during the ride. It's usually done with Wh rather than Ah, so you multiply the Ah x the voltage to get the Wh (which is also capacity). Typical pedal-speed operation in the 10-20mph range on flat ground with no wind is in the 10-20Wh/mile range (sometimes less), depending on how much you contribute to power by pedalling vs how much the motor does. If you have hills, wind, or ride faster, or like to accellerate harder and/or don't pedal at all, power usage can be a lot more. Not knowing your usage, riding style, terrain, or winds, we'll go with 20Wh/mile.

So for 8 miles of range, plus say 50% (4 miles) to account for potential detours, headwinds, and pack aging over time (which loses capacity over the years), that would be 12miles x 20Wh/mile, or 240Wh. If you have a 48v battery, that is 240Wh / 48v = 5Ah. A 36v battery would be 240 / 36 = 6.7Ah.

That's assuming you get a good quality battery from a reputable seller that can output high enough current without straining the cells; a cheap battery is unlikely to do that (it's cells are cheaper, sometimes not new, usually not matched, and generally less capable). You don't specify what your new controller is or link to it, so we'll just guess that it has a 20A current limit to approximately match a 500w motor on a 48v battery. If it pulls a max of 20A, then when you are riding at a speed under conditions that require enough power, the battery must be able to supply that 20A without being stressed. A 5Ah battery would have to be a "4C" rated battery (pretty good cells, though not the best out there), to do that when new (as it ages it gets less capable, so a 6C+ battery might still do it as it gets old). This is where it gets a little confusing, because I said Ah isn't amps...but in this case, A is derived from Ah by multiplying by the "C" rate of the battery, so 5Ah x 4C = 20A (loses the "h" here).

It's usually cheaper to just get a bigger battery, so a 10Ah or higher would probably be fine, since even most cheap cells can do 2C (which would give you 20A capability with a 10Ah battery when it's new).

There may be other considerations, depending on your riding conditions/etc; you can play with that simulator linked above to see how things interact with each other.


My problem now lies in the connection between the controller, which is the juliet motor connector to the motors higo connection. I have looked online for adapters which I have not found a juliet to higo. So I think I either make one myself or take the motor in a shop and have them replace the higo with a up-to-date juliet connection.

Note that it is "Julet" not "Juliet", which may aid your searches...but to make it more confusing, sellers often use Julet and Higo interchangeably, so looking for the specific "connector part number" may be better. This page has the major ones listed here:
https://ebikes.ca/learn/connectors.html
I'm going to guess the controller has this one
HiGo Z910
https://ebikes.ca/learn/connectors.html#HiGoZ910
but there are multiple types that fit your description of the motor end.
If you can't find the cable you need, you may be able to have ebikes.ca make one for you, or you can order the matching end to plug into the motor and change the cable on the controller to match (it's easier to open and solder inside the controller than the motor), or you can cut and splice somewhere in the cable itself for either motor or controller with the matching end for the other one.

For splicing, these are handy:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R4Z13P3
I'm sure there are smaller cheaper kits with just the sizes you'd need for the specific wires you need to connect.

I recommend you stagger the connections so they are not next to each other; this will both make the total cable thickness at the splice smaller, and help prevent shorts between splices should insulation on them fail or any of them ever come undone.
https://trucktractor6x4.tpub.com/TM-9-2320-302-20/img/TM-9-2320-302-20_187_1.jpg
TM-9-2320-302-20_187_1[1].jpg

Then you can use wrap like this to seal the spliced area against weather
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Nashua-Tape-1-in-x-3-33-yd-Stretch-and-Seal-Self-Fusing-Silicone-Tape-in-Black-1743082/100206050
there are a bunch of variations of that kind of thing.

(the links above are just examples; you can probably find better deals or better products).

Wow, that you Amberwolf. This was a lot of information and useful also in building up my repository of ebike knowledge. Thank you for sharing your knowledge on watts, Ah, and Volts. I just saved me from possibly ruining my first ebike and my first builded. Though, I probably won't had feeling that for now the 36v, 14Ah it came stock will I would replace with a new one for now.
With the information in hand, which I will sit down and read again to make sure I absorb it all in. But for now I will stick with the battery I have currently. Which is in working order, just had to jump it with a 40v battery.
 
docw009 said:
The 9 wire motor cable is difficult to solder and maintain a tght bundle that will slip thru the typical 12mm axle nut. The thinner sensor wires are easy. Just do a twist type butt splice, and cover with heat shrink, Cannot do that with the heavy phase wires unless you don't mind a thick "bandange".

I've found that small brass or copper tubes make good forms to hold both ends of the phase wires. Fill with solder and cover with heat shrink.What I use are the froms inside the 18G-20G crimps. Buy six for $5. Heat them with a pencil tip iron and the metal pushes out.,
solder1_edited-1.jpg
solder2.JPG
solder3.JPG

And you want to offset these splices as shown by AW.

Since I am no good at soldering I ordered these and they worked out great for rewiring. I covered the connectors. With the black heat shrink for a nice clean looks. Thank you for the suggestion, this really helped.

ATTACH]
 
I have now finished most of the wiring, just have the order the 3 pin male connector to connect the PAS to the controller. All the wiring is complete and the bike in now back together and looks factory again.

I took the bike for a ride I noticed the display shows the battery goes from full to no battery after 15 second and the motor shuts off. I release the throttle and the battery indicator on the display slowly goes back up to full battery and I am able to ingauge the motor agian.
I am thinking that this may have to do with a bad BMS, the lack of a PAS connection, or a setting on the display needs to be changed to fix the issue. I have set in the display that the battery in 36v and guess the the motor has 46 magnets (not sure if the magnet setting is the issue since I had it at 1and still work minis the battery issue).
The display is an s866 off of Amazon, cheap and simple for now just get it going. Maybe the display could be faulty.
Any suggestions would be helpful it fix the issue
 
Is the display and controller a set that came together as a kit? If not, it's very likely that they do not work together, and anything you think you are setting in the display is either not actually changing anything in the controller, or else is actually changing the wrong things or to the wrong values (if this is the case, you can't even know which is happening, if anything, except by guessing and experimentation).
 
amberwolf said:
Is the display and controller a set that came together as a kit? If not, it's very likely that they do not work together, and anything you think you are setting in the display is either not actually changing anything in the controller, or else is actually changing the wrong things or to the wrong values (if this is the case, you can't even know which is happening, if anything, except by guessing and experimentation).

I had brought the controller and the display separately off of Amazon.
Screenshot_20221223_081836_Amazon Shopping.jpg

Screenshot_20221223_082108_Amazon Shopping.jpg

The controller seems to be working fine. As for tye display I seen a error 10 where the trip kilometers/ miles should be displayed. I have unplugged and plug every plug there is on the bike. Checked the connections that I soldered with a multimeter. Everything seems to be in order. Last night after my first test runn I did some sreaching on the issue and seen this come up on forums and YouTube videos with the display being faulty and that was my thinking, that it's a display issue. I am not sure as to what display to get that would play nice to be honest.
 
I notice that only going for a ride does the battery indicator act up, but if I lift the back tire and turn the throttle it has no issue and works fine. Still the e10 is shown on the display no matter what I do.
 
It might not have been clear from my original post(s) but *any* display must match the controller it is for or it will not do what you want it to do.

If you get them separately it's unlikely they will work together. There is always a small chance you could randomly manage to get compatible items, but that's very unlikely.

If you get them as a kit together they should work together (but there have been cases where a seller doesn't put the right display with the right controller, so it still doesn't work).


If they're not matched, you could get all sorts of error messages / codes and incorrect behaviors, and settings chosen in the display will not be sent to the controller at all, or in rare cases the wrong things will be sent and not change what you wanted to change or to the right values, causing further problems (because you can't even know what is being changed or to what).


The controller will still do whatever it is programmed to do by default, assuming the display is sending it data that it simply doesn't understand so it ignores it all.

But neither display nor controller will understand each other so they can't do their interactive jobs.
 
Back
Top