Welding down a torque arm

calab said:
And as Chalo stated, those look like weak brakes. Whats best to do, swap them out then frames only setup for center mount caliper. Maybe an adapter?

https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Caliper-Tektro-C326-Pivot/dp/B005ESFAXA/

These plus Kool Stop salmon pads would be about the best improvement per cost and effort.
 
The rear brake has new wider pads attached to the braking assy. I understand it is a cheap and old braking system. The front braking is medicore at best and prevents flipping over.That's all I want on front. Rear brake lever is ebrake set up. I'm not going to replacing braking system for the sake of being uncheap or hip. My stopping power is fine. I have better pads to add to front as well.
 
The front is where you want the good braking system to be because its the side that takes most of the stopping power the front.
To be cool or hip is an individual thing, just be yourself.
 
calab said:
The front is where you want the good braking system to be because its the side that takes most of the stopping power the front.
To be cool or hip is an individual thing, just be yourself.
my point is that I don't want to go head over. I'm fully aware that front has more physical stopping effect. I can swap pads.
Yet compared to many ebikes, I still have decent stopping power. My top speed is 28 mph w/ wind. I wonder what kind of stopping power these 50 to 60 mph skateboards have.
 
RTLSHIP said:
Yet compared to many ebikes, I still have decent stopping power.

Compared to e-bikes with broken brakes? Or no brakes? Call me skeptical about your assessment.

My top speed is 28 mph w/ wind. I wonder what kind of stopping power these 50 to 60 mph skateboards have.

Skateboards
1) are deathtraps anyway, and
2) are easy to jump off of as they fly away to their doom without you.

If you think you can quickly and safely bail out of your bike at 28mph and land on your feet, you're mistaken. Better to have good brakes.
 
no I can't jump off a bike at nearly any speed. A major concern is hitting a surprise bump or dip in the road. This would lead to loss of control. I try to do my best. 28 mph is my extreme and is only done briefly in isolated places.
I tested my brakes this weekend and my stopping power at 20 mph is about 12 ft with no skidding. That's approximate. The rear pad gives off a burn smell. Skidding might bring it down to 10 ft or less. a better front brake pad would help. There is new front brake wiring in place. What is considered reasonable stopping distance at 20 mph? A reaction time of 1.5 seconds at 20 mph adds 44 feet.
20 mph is ~29.3 ft per second. So 44 + 12 is 56 ft total (theoretical average) distance to stop.
 
RTLSHIP said:
A reaction time of 1.5 seconds at 20 mph adds 44 feet.
I'd work on getting that down to the sub 1 sec. range. Daydreaming while riding at higher speeds gets dangerous.

RTLSHIP said:
a better front brake pad would help.
Still rockin' the old-school front caliper? Should be able to find Koolstop pads to fit:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/brakeshoes.html#threaded

Highly recommended.
 
I got the 1.5 seconds online. It is perhaps some ordinary average person constant. I can't really say what my reaction time would be in a future instance. Human foresight is generalized, can't see how someone would demand that I react in 1 second or even 1.5 in the future.

I just bought some wide pads and will install them shortly. By the way, the rear tire has modern pads and either skids or produces a burn smell.
 
Chalo said:
calab said:
And as Chalo stated, those look like weak brakes. Whats best to do, swap them out then frames only setup for center mount caliper. Maybe an adapter?

https://www.amazon.com/Brake-Caliper-Tektro-C326-Pivot/dp/B005ESFAXA/

These plus Kool Stop salmon pads would be about the best improvement per cost and effort.

Hi Chalo
I saw you recommend the Dual Pivot center mount brake on a few different thread before. What is the advantage over v-brake? My current bike a 90's giant Boulder hard tail steel have the center pull calipers brake. Trying to decide which is better for upgrade. Thanks
 
Skippo said:
I saw you recommend the Dual Pivot center mount brake on a few different thread before. What is the advantage over v-brake? My current bike a 90's giant Boulder hard tail steel have the center pull calipers brake. Trying to decide which is better for upgrade. Thanks

The only advantage of a dual pivot caliper brake is that you don't need brake studs on your frame. Also you may be able to change wheel sizes by using a longer or shorter reach brake.

By "center pull calipers brake" do you mean cantilever brakes?

images


If so, you can switch to linear pull (e.g. V-brakes™), but you'll have to also switch to different brake levers. Linear pull brakes need long pull levers, but cantilevers need short pull levers.

FYI, this is a centerpull brake:

VBmva.jpg


It's a mostly obsolete design that mounts on a single bolt like a dual pivot caliper.
 
Chalo said:
FYI, this is a centerpull brake:

VBmva.jpg


It's a mostly obsolete design that mounts on a single bolt like a dual pivot caliper.

I had those exact brakes on a Schwinn Continental that I bought sometime after high school. My sister had the Schwinn Varsity.
 
Chalo you are the man :flame:
Yes it is cantilever brakes.
I think the brake lever came with the bafeng kit is long pull already. So I am good on that.
V-brake with kool stop Salmon, new brake line and housing should be everything to complete my brake overhaul. Right?
Any cheap recommendation on V-brake set?
 
Skippo said:
I think the brake lever came with the bafeng kit is long pull already. So I am good on that.
V-brake with kool stop Salmon, new brake line and housing should be everything to complete my brake overhaul. Right?

Right, if you're correct about your levers. Almost every single e-brake lever I have seen is short pull.

Any cheap recommendation on V-brake set?

Tektro, even cheap Tektro, is a safe bet. Same with Shimano. Promax always finds a way to suck way hard. Origin8 is a total crapshoot, like the buying agent is drunk and choosing Taiwanese and Chinese catalog products at random. Sunlite and Clarks are always a bit crappy looking and feeling, but functional. Dimension is kind of like that, but a little less crappy on average.

If you can buy a full kit with two brakes (and maybe two levers), you'll get more bang for the buck than buying them all separately.
 
So cheap plastic brake levers?

Did you get the bungee cord, rear rack bag or zip ties with that kit :lol:

Skippo said:
I think the brake lever came with the bafeng kit is long pull already. So I am good on that.
V-brake with kool stop Salmon, new brake line and housing should be everything to complete my brake overhaul. Right?
Any cheap recommendation on V-brake set?
 
calab said:
So cheap plastic brake levers?

Did you get the bungee cord, rear rack bag or zip ties with that kit :lol:

It that really necessary.
Not everyone is rich and advance like you.
I consider myself as a beginner with entry level budget. And that why I am here to learn.
Bty
How is your junky razor scooter coming along. I remember you keep saying things like use what you already have and try not to buy stuff.
 
I aint saying yours is junk. I primarily buy piece by piece but every cheap ebay/amazon kit I ever bought came with plastic levers, some even came with bungee cords, a rear rack bag and perhaps even zip ties, I was making fun of what the sellers try to throw in the kit to "sweeten" the deal, not making fun of your wheels. I aint rich either, I got piles of junk, just in case :lol: but I ride a lot, so I can not afford any downtime but I cut corners, I have about 10+ wheels :lol: I got Wuxing levers, so not much better.

Seeing the scooter rental riders, and requiring 240v welding, I abandoned that project as there was just too much weight, it needs new lighter, smaller stuff like a small esc, a lightweight motor and perhaps lipo and a balance charger, or some LiGo's. I prefer ebiking as there is more of a benefit through physical exercise which you cant get on e-scooter/skateboard etc. I probably can get further too on an ebike. I doubt I'd go the same places.
 
Chalo said:
Tektro, even cheap Tektro, is a safe bet. Same with Shimano. Promax always finds a way to suck way hard. Origin8 is a total crapshoot, like the buying agent is drunk and choosing Taiwanese and Chinese catalog products at random. Sunlite and Clarks are always a bit crappy looking and feeling, but functional. Dimension is kind of like that, but a little less crappy on average.

If you can buy a full kit with two brakes (and maybe two levers), you'll get more bang for the buck than buying them all separately.

Sound advice there, agree completely with one addition: if you live in rainy or salty parts of the world and can choose between shimano and tektro, get the shimano. I’ve found during years of riding that tektros corrode and oxidise way more than shimano. Stuff still works but with high friction, creaking and bad looks.
 
It's all metal for sure. No plastic. So I measured the distance between the pivot and the cable anchor it about 1.5".
I think that's a long pull?
Thanks larsb for the heads up. I am at social, and we are in a drought again. So no worry on that.
Sorry about jacking the post OP.
I am really here to learn about torque arms. Safety 1st.
 
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