Best rear shock for heavy ebike.

E5J7R

1 W
Joined
Apr 20, 2020
Messages
54
Hey,

I was wondering if someone could help me with some advice. I have a heavy steel exoskeleton (not the lighter one with the plastic panels) stealth clone ebike/motorcycle that weighs about 165 lbs or so. I originally had some zoom forks which were horrible... I mean HORRIBLE. I first upgraded them to the DNM UsD-8 which was a massive improvement but after almost a year, I have decided to go big with a set of Marzocchi Bomber 58’s. They are basically Fox 40’s with a smidge less adjustability. Fox bought Marzocchi and so these forks use the same basic tech and specs... but are about 700$ Cheaper. 😅

Anyways, I have not received the forks yet but am wondering if I should go ahead and upgrade the rear shock. I currently have the DNM rcp-s2. I’ve had no issue with it really but I would like to have as good a ride as possible. I don’t know what to do. Should I wait and see how it rides when I get the fork? It is coming sometime from late June to late august (backorder 😠 grr).

I’m thinking about the fox DHX2. I heard it pairs well with the Bomber 52. I just know pretty much jack didly about rear shocks lol.

There’s a guy -
https://youtube.com/user/ScottPaulConley
He has a tricked out Sur-Ron and rips it around a full motocross track. Check his happy track video... insane!

He says the fox dhx2 is well worth the money.

I don’t race my bike or anything but it would be fun to take it to a track sometime just to learn a bit.

I do know that I need to structurally support the bike.

I’ve already got these parts to upgrade:
-roller bearing motorcycle headset.
-promax cranks
-hubsink/feerofluid
-DRIVELINE TT Chainring 56T BCD 110MM AL7075
-Magura mt5e
-Magura 220mm rotor and adapter for caliper
-Hirschmann Electric throttle (same as Alta redshift)

I also have a votol emc150 controller to install.

Still need to order an ANT BMS for my battery to up its discharge a bit as I don’t want to just bypass it like some do.

I’ve also upgraded the swingarm linkage to use a full stack of bearings riding on the the metal rod, along with the oil filled bushings... rather than the rubber thing with bushings it came with. Planning on upgrading my wheels to excel with thicker spokes also (having trouble finding the spoke length to pair with an 18” takasago excel rim and my qs205 50H 36 spoke hole motor.)

So anyone got some shock suggestions or thoughts? Or heck , even some help on the spoke /rim issue would be really awesome as well ...

Thanks so much guys!!!
 
Have you thought about renting a quarq shockwiz and trying that to get a good setup? I’ve been chasing settings on mine for a while and about to rent one. I’m getting there now I’ve put a lot of damping in the rear, but still messing around months later....
 
Don't want to bust any bubble, I changed from dnm dv-22ar rear oil dampened spring shock (lower end than rcp2, $40 on ebay) to a cane creek spring shock 2020 model ($500 on ebay).

The difference is very hard / impossible to tell. A metal spring is a metal spring. Oil dampers have different levels of adjustability and serviceability so if you are after that go for it. But it is still a spring and oil being restricted.

For a rear suspension there are so many other factors, linkage system, swingarm length/rigidity, unsprung weight, bushing/bearing condition and smoothness and so on, as opposed to the front suspension where the fork by itself is the whole suspension.

The cranks, the shortest ones are the best ones for high power ebike use. I got 145mm on one bike and 152mm on the other. Much more confidence off road as the chance of ground/rock strikes is much less and a more central posture.
 
IMG_20201122_150704a.jpg

DNM pit bike shock 285mm - much better job.

Jonno
 
I had similar issues getting a good rear set up due to QS273, weight of bike and weight of me.
My rear shock length 190mm.
I started with a DNM RCP3 shock and modified a 1000lb spring to fit. But, this, although comfortable, bottomed out easy.
Then I had the idea of trying 2 RCP air shocks. (1 was not enough due to air pressure needed). This worked well, but constantly needed topping up with air and the reaction of this shock set up never seemed quite right.
Then I tried a pit / motor bike shock, 205mm with remote cannister (available in many lengths). 18 compression settings and (I think) 12 rebound settings.
I don't know the spring strength, but it is advertised as maximum 1000lb load.
This totally transformed the bike. Smooth suspension that doesn't bottom out. The adjustments for compression rebound do work and I am slowly dialing it in to suit how I ride. (I had to 3D print a holder for the remote reservoir, as the supplied bracket was no good to me).
I am at this time, redesigning a new rear swing arm, to lower the rear a bit (as the 205 shock makes it a bit high) and also to allow more space for the rear disc and gear set).

RCP3.jpg
RCP2.jpg
RCP1.jpg
 
Tats said:
Have you thought about renting a quarq shockwiz and trying that to get a good setup? I’ve been chasing settings on mine for a while and about to rent one. I’m getting there now I’ve put a lot of damping in the rear, but still messing around months later....

Wow, see that goes to show my lack of knowledge. I didn’t even know that was a thing. Thanks for the tip, I’ll definitely look into it if I run out of options.
 
Tommm said:
Don't want to bust any bubble, I changed from dnm dv-22ar rear oil dampened spring shock (lower end than rcp2, $40 on ebay) to a cane creek spring shock 2020 model ($500 on ebay).

The difference is very hard / impossible to tell. A metal spring is a metal spring. Oil dampers have different levels of adjustability and serviceability so if you are after that go for it. But it is still a spring and oil being restricted.

For a rear suspension there are so many other factors, linkage system, swingarm length/rigidity, unsprung weight, bushing/bearing condition and smoothness and so on, as opposed to the front suspension where the fork by itself is the whole suspension.

The cranks, the shortest ones are the best ones for high power ebike use. I got 145mm on one bike and 152mm on the other. Much more confidence off road as the chance of ground/rock strikes is much less and a more central posture.


Yeah the swingarm on this frame leaves much to be desired, then again, at the price I paid... I don’t know what else I could expect. Still an amazing frame for the money as king as you are willing to put in a little work getting it up to par.

Maybe I should reconsider spending $700 on the fox shock.

I got me some 140mm cranks and a 56T. Haunting that just got here. First I came to realize I didn’t have the crank removal tool needed, now I find out that I don’t have the required (5) chainring bolts lol. I can’t wait to try them out, I just have to wait for these damn bolts now. Thanks for the help.
 
Jonno said:
IMG_20201122_150704a.jpg

DNM pit bike shock 285mm - much better job.

Jonno

Hey jonno, long time no talk.

Yeah definitely looks like a good idea with the pit bike shock option. For me the trick will be finding one that fits my 200mm eye to eye. I didn’t realize that frame you have uses a different eye to eye measurement. If you know of any that will 200mm with 2.25 of travel let me know. Thanks man!
 
:pancake:
Santacruz said:
I had similar issues getting a good rear set up due to QS273, weight of bike and weight of me.
My rear shock length 190mm.
I started with a DNM RCP3 shock and modified a 1000lb spring to fit. But, this, although comfortable, bottomed out easy.
Then I had the idea of trying 2 RCP air shocks. (1 was not enough due to air pressure needed). This worked well, but constantly needed topping up with air and the reaction of this shock set up never seemed quite right.
Then I tried a pit / motor bike shock, 205mm with remote cannister (available in many lengths). 18 compression settings and (I think) 12 rebound settings.
I don't know the spring strength, but it is advertised as maximum 1000lb load.
This totally transformed the bike. Smooth suspension that doesn't bottom out. The adjustments for compression rebound do work and I am slowly dialing it in to suit how I ride. (I had to 3D print a holder for the remote reservoir, as the supplied bracket was no good to me).
I am at this time, redesigning a new rear swing arm, to lower the rear a bit (as the 205 shock makes it a bit high) and also to allow more space for the rear disc and gear set).

RCP3.jpg
RCP2.jpg
RCP1.jpg



Ok, now this might work. You have the same exact frame as me. So it is a 205mm.... hmm , I’m about to be putting a slightly smaller rear wheel on so that might offset the 5mm difference in height. I’m pretty tall anyways and I have trouble pedaling without sitting up higher. Maybe this will work, what brand and model is the shock? Do u have a link? Also , would you mind sharing that 3d file for when I put on my bicycle seat?

Thanks a bunch man. I might actually be able to save some money now without buying that big$ fox
 
E5J7R said:
Tats said:
Have you thought about renting a quarq shockwiz and trying that to get a good setup? I’ve been chasing settings on mine for a while and about to rent one. I’m getting there now I’ve put a lot of damping in the rear, but still messing around months later....

Wow, see that goes to show my lack of knowledge. I didn’t even know that was a thing. Thanks for the tip, I’ll definitely look into it if I run out of options.

I’ll let you know how I go with mine - I’ve bought one as a local supplier had a 15% off sale and by all accounts it takes a fair few rides to get things fully dialed in. Should arrive tomorrow so this w/end I’ll know just how wrong my setup is...
 
E5J7R said:
Ok, now this might work. You have the same exact frame as me. So it is a 205mm.... hmm , I’m about to be putting a slightly smaller rear wheel on so that might offset the 5mm difference in height. I’m pretty tall anyways and I have trouble pedaling without sitting up higher. Maybe this will work, what brand and model is the shock? Do u have a link? Also , would you mind sharing that 3d file for when I put on my bicycle seat?

Thanks a bunch man. I might actually be able to save some money now without buying that big$ fox

No problem. The only thing I should add that I did not say, was, this shock has 10mm eyes, so you have to drill out the 8mm holes on the swing arm and frame box. (I suppose you could also sleeve the shock eyes, but I went with drilling and it fits perfect), eye width is 24mm so no problem there. I used 10mm Allen head shoulder bolts and cap nuts for looks.

Link to shock I bought:-
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001729478489.html?spm=2114.13010708.0.0.3a994c4djiIWWv
I don't know the make, but I will say it is very well made and now at about 500kms it is still working fine.

What 3D file are you referring to?

Here is a better pic of the new shock:
20210428_111834r.jpg
 
Got the shockwiz and must say it is helping me a lot.

It’s a bit tricky to calibrate at first but once you get the hang of it, it’s a piece of cake. I’ve only done a couple of runs but I’m heaps closer to where I needs to be. The big issue has been air pressure. My shock pump is inaccurate and is reading -10 psi less than the shockwiz reading for a start. The 2010 solo air boxxer for my 84kg suggests 70-85 psi and I’d reduced this on my pump to 55psi....but this was actually 65.

So some 40kms later with a few sessions, I’m getting closer with the shockwiz now reading green with 51 psi in the fork. This psi is for a rider of 63-72 kegs according to the tuning guide. I’ve just checked and I’ve used 188mm of the 200 travel. It’s now recommending I reduce the HSC by more than 3 clicks but I just want a bit more ‘confidence’ percentage before I move out of air pressure adjustments. I haven’t checked tokens yet. But it’s already much improved on the rattly rooty concrete paths where I’m experiencing the worst feedback. And I’m starting to feel the direction I want to go in. I recommend a weeks rental before buying anything for sure.
 
Tats said:
E5J7R said:
Tats said:
Have you thought about renting a quarq shockwiz and trying that to get a good setup? I’ve been chasing settings on mine for a while and about to rent one. I’m getting there now I’ve put a lot of damping in the rear, but still messing around months later....
.

Wow, see that goes to show my lack of knowledge. I didn’t even know that was a thing. Thanks for the tip, I’ll definitely look into it if I run out of options.

I’ll let you know how I go with mine - I’ve bought one as a local supplier had a 15% off sale and by all accounts it takes a fair few rides to get things fully dialed in. Should arrive tomorrow so this w/end I’ll know just how wrong my setup is...


Lol, ya definitely let me know. My situation is being put on hold until my new fork arrives. Being that most of the suspension will be handled up front, I need to wait and see how my current shock pairs with my new fork before I even really know what is going on and what I’m going to need

There is a guy on you tube called fpvlee that is running the rockshox vivid r2c on a very fast and heavy bomber clone and he takes it on some fast, heavily rooted downhill. He says it is amazing. He said he might also try an Elka moto shock by welding a new mount, but I don’t one how to weld yet... so that’s a no go for me, for now.
 
Santacruz said:
No problem. The only thing I should add that I did not say, was, this shock has 10mm eyes, so you have to drill out the 8mm holes on the swing arm and frame box. (I suppose you could also sleeve the shock eyes, but I went with drilling and it fits perfect), eye width is 24mm so no problem there. I used 10mm Allen head shoulder bolts and cap nuts for looks.

Link to shock I bought:-
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001729478489.html?spm=2114.13010708.0.0.3a994c4djiIWWv
I don't know the make, but I will say it is very well made and now at about 500kms it is still working fine.

What 3D file are you referring to?

Here is a better pic of the new shock:
20210428_111834r.jpg

I thought The 3d file was for the seat post holder for reservoir.

Thanks for the better picture and link, I found it, I’ve decided to wait for the moment before I buy anything... until my fork arrives that is. I need to see how my current shock pairs with the marzocchi fork before I know what’s up.

Does your shock allow for enough travel?

I’m bouncing back and forth between getting your shock and the rockshox vivid r2c. I just can’t see blowing the $800 on a fox dhx2 when I have other things like the wheels that still need upgrades too.
 
E5J7R said:

I thought The 3d file was for the seat post holder for reservoir.

Thanks for the better picture and link, I found it, I’ve decided to wait for the moment before I buy anything... until my fork arrives that is. I need to see how my current shock pairs with the marzocchi fork before I know what’s up.

Does your shock allow for enough travel?

I’m bouncing back and forth between getting your shock and the rockshox vivid r2c. I just can’t see blowing the $800 on a fox dhx2 when I have other things like the wheels that still need upgrades too.
I have many 3D files.
No problem with the reservoir holder, although I am at the moment doing a better one and of course the seat post mounting may not be correct for you, due to different diameters.
Shock travel for me is about 7/8, but I have not bottomed out and it remains very smooth. I have changed my front over to 36 fox float standard style shocks (lucky buy from local advert) and that has made a huge improvement in comfort (Compression / rebound / lock out and air). Also allows for much more steering angle.
I think what is important, is how and what you are going to use your bike for.
Mine is road and cycle paths (mix of tarmac and brick paving), for commuting to work etc. and this set up is good for me. Off road, maybe would not work with this rear shock.
 
Swapped the shockwiz onto my new bike that has a durolux fork - so much better than my old boxxer over high speed root/rippled surface. The suntour fork has much more compression ratio than the boxxer. Again at 52psi it’s got my air pressure for a rider 20kgs less than I actually am. My riding position is very different from those setting pressure as recommended by manufacturer. The rear shock is a dnm burner and this is setup much better than the old fox on my old bike.

So in summary it’s definitely helping setup and I would never have tried these settings with out it. So yeah I recommend a weeks rental at least.
 
I have many 3D files.
No problem with the reservoir holder, although I am at the moment doing a better one and of course the seat post mounting may not be correct for you, due to different diameters.
Shock travel for me is about 7/8, but I have not bottomed out and it remains very smooth. I have changed my front over to 36 fox float standard style shocks (lucky buy from local advert) and that has made a huge improvement in comfort (Compression / rebound / lock out and air). Also allows for much more steering angle.
I think what is important, is how and what you are going to use your bike for.
Mine is road and cycle paths (mix of tarmac and brick paving), for commuting to work etc. and this set up is good for me. Off road, maybe would not work with this rear shock.
Hi mate. Can you share the file to 3D print the reservoir holder?
 
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