26" x 3.0" wheels onto 750/1500w hub

DrkAngel

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Dec 15, 2010
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5,300
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Upstate-Western-Southern Tier NY. USA
Score!
Picked up a set of 26" x 3.0" wheels for $10, wide rim, tires and tubes in excellent condition.
Spokes a bit rusty, rear hub stiff and "rough" ... perfect!

3inchers.jpg

I have a Liberty Stealth Climber - Circa 2006? ($50) in need of an upgrade.
200mm rear disc and 160mm front.
Looking for a worthy rim to lace a 750/1500w hub into.
Replacing a ridiculously under powered 250w geared hub.

443_long.jpg

Of course, modifications will be necessary:
replace 14g spokes with 12g;
re-drill holes for 12g nipples;
"washer" nipple seats to reinforce - spread stress.

As done previously, to strengthen nipple seating, I place stamped washers, sized for wide nipple swing, under each nipple. This helps prevent nipple pull through, spreads rim stress, allows wide spoke swing and greatly eases tensioning difficulty. "Stamped" washer are slightly cupped on one side making for a smooth seat, reverse side is rough-sharp for good traction against aluminum rim. I have variously placed a layer of duct tape under washers or used SS washers to deter any corrosion.

A 2012 build
file.php


Will update with progress!

Wide rims are still 26"'s standard diameter, so should be good for 2.5" more street designed tires. 1500w mode pushed to 14s should be near 40mph capable.

PS - will want to re-lace front wheel with disc capable hub. Has vestigial rim brake mounts but ... stopping from 40mph could use some better help.
 
Don't use 12ga spokes. They make your wheel weaker and require more frequent maintenance. They're not better at anything, but they're worse at several things.

To cope with dumb oversized hub holes, use washers under the heads of 14ga spokes.

If those rims are single walled, they are probably plenty thick in the spoke bed to take whatever tension you want to use, assuming 14ga spokes. No need for washers on that account (though stainless steel washers can serve as an improved bearing surface to make tightening and truing easier).

A rim brake can be every bit as powerful as a disc brake-- more so if you're spending less than about $80 retail per brake-- but the width of the rim and the spacing of the brake bosses might not be a great match. It's worth checking out before you throw money at a problem you don't have. If the hub is in cruddy shape, that's a point in favor of relacing.
 
Ordering up a 750\1500w hub kit.
48V rated for 34mph and will push a bit, to 14s, maybe 15s ... if I want to hit 40mph.
Got refund on a batch of bad cells, so, battery shopping!

Or
Have 6x 36V 14Ah (10s4p) Batteries, Could use 3, split 1 for 2x 54V 14Ah (15s4p) batteries.
Yeah, would probably want 15s8p 54V 28Ah for any decent range. 8p rated for 80A, plenty enough so 35A controller won't stress batteries.
 
Hello!
I'm new to the e-bike industry and I just changed my tires to Kenda Nevegal 2 Tubeless Ready Tire (see these tubeless-ready tires: https://raderides.com/collections/e-bikes-tires-tubeless-ready-tires). I haven't got the chance to use them properly and my question is: did someone used them? and got a review?
Thank you! :D
 
Three inch tires will not fit on proposed 26" frame!
Clearance issues!
And need even more clearance for large fenders.
If I want to use at all, will need to convert to disc hub and fit onto a 29er?
 
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