Looking to start a new project. I was hoping to use a battery and motor I already have. Both are from a 2015 zero fx. 75-5 z force motor, 2.8kwh pack. My question is, has anyone been able to use a zero battery without the rest of the stock zero wiring, controller, mbb?
Electric ATV battery advice
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Depends on the battery. You can test yours by connecting a voltmeter to the main + and - output, set to 200VDC.
If you get no output, then something needs to enable the BMS output first. I don't know what that would be, but there are a few Zero battery pack threads around here and on some of the Zero MC forums, etc. (or the pack might be "empty" and need to be charged first, so you could try that, too).
If you get the expected voltage (near 120vdc) then you can try running a load on the output while monitoring with your meter. Heating elements for stuff that plugs into the wall for 115VAC or so will generally work fine at this voltage. Old toaster ovens, etc. Probably get 500-1000w of load per device that way, and if you need to test at higher power you parallel more of the same loads.
If you can use a wattmeter between the battery and the load, then you can monitor votlage, watts, amps, amphours and watthours all at the same time, which is handy. Just has to be able to handle the full voltage of the system, and the max current you'll be drawing from it. Is also handy for later testing on the EV itself.
Are you going to use the original controller as well, or just the motor with a new controller?
If you get no output, then something needs to enable the BMS output first. I don't know what that would be, but there are a few Zero battery pack threads around here and on some of the Zero MC forums, etc. (or the pack might be "empty" and need to be charged first, so you could try that, too).
If you get the expected voltage (near 120vdc) then you can try running a load on the output while monitoring with your meter. Heating elements for stuff that plugs into the wall for 115VAC or so will generally work fine at this voltage. Old toaster ovens, etc. Probably get 500-1000w of load per device that way, and if you need to test at higher power you parallel more of the same loads.
If you can use a wattmeter between the battery and the load, then you can monitor votlage, watts, amps, amphours and watthours all at the same time, which is handy. Just has to be able to handle the full voltage of the system, and the max current you'll be drawing from it. Is also handy for later testing on the EV itself.
Are you going to use the original controller as well, or just the motor with a new controller?
