Kona Blast Worth Upgrading Forks?

spaceship

1 W
Joined
Mar 21, 2022
Messages
62
Location
Vancouver Island, BC
I got this Kona Blast for $50 and have moved my 1500w rear hub over to it because my previous frame had rim brakes (an old chromo steel Marin), and figured the disc brakes would be a good upgrade.

It is working okay, however when I brake hard on the front the wheel tweaks to the left quite a bit, enough that the tire nearly touches the fork. I realize this can be either quick release spindle loose/slipping, the fork twisting, or the wheel flexing (or some combination).

I'm wondering if it is worth it to upgrade the fork on this bike and if so what would be a good option? Also what about brakes, is it worthwhile to upgrade to hydrolic brakes, or just save up and watch for a better bike? I mostly use for commuting and some smooth trails, not hard offroad riding.

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I had that same problem on a similar setup. Excessive play allowed the front wheel to shift over violently to the left when applying the front brakes. NOT confidence-inspiring!

In my case was caused by 1) loose/worn hub bearings and; 2) loose/worn front suspension shocks.

Solved by overhauling the front hub and replacing the front suspension forks.

Theoretically the forks are rebuildable but I was not set up for that process and the FLSBSs were not interested in the job.
 
I have the same problem with an old 2003 Marzzochi fork I got for free. I think its a combination of all of those things you mentioned. The QR axles are not notorious for their stiffness.

You could try a brake booster that mounts on the studs for the rim brakes. I think what happens is the brake mount imparts a twist on the forks lower leg which throws everything out of square. I can't say for sure if it will help but its not going to hurt to try it.

If you get a new fork you are probably going to want to upgrade the front wheel to a stiffer axle design like the 15mm thru axle. So then you are at least in it for a new wheel as well.

If you want to try a new fork with your existing wheel the Rockshox Judy is about the cheapest one I know of that is not mystery garbage.

https://www.amazon.com/RockShox-Silver-Travel-Lockout-Package/dp/B06XCQQ36K/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=rockshox+judy&qid=1650048706&sr=8-13

As for brakes the Avid BB7 mechanical brakes are very powerful. I have removed problematic hydraulics and installed BB7s on my whole fleet. They might lack a bit of precise modulation vs the hydros but hydraulic brakes are annoying to maintain unless you really need them.

If you like the bike then its worth upgrading. Kona never made junk to my knowledge so ifs in good shape it might deserve a new fork.
 
DanGT86 said:
If you like the bike then its worth upgrading. Kona never made junk to my knowledge so ifs in good shape it might deserve a new fork.

Hmm, well I dont think I want to spend $300 plus on this bike. I got the rear brakes working and took it for a spin and it runs decent enough for now. I got it cheap because it has a mish mash of parts. It had mismatched pedals and garbage crank but I swapped those from my other bike. Still has mismatched brake calipers - shimano on the front and hayes on the back - but it works well enough. I think I'll just keep my eyes out for a better bike with better components, and then this one will become a spare (heck for the $50 I paid thats fine)
 
If the wheel moves around in the forks under any conditions, you should check the axle, hub, and bearings, and fix that before continuing to ride it--if something is worn, loose, or broken, you could end up with a faceplant at speed if it fails while riding (you don't necessarily have to be braking for it to fail).
 
If it were mine, I'd upgrade to a suspension corrected rigid steel fork for a lifetime solution.
 
$$$$$$$
You can not cheap out on suspension components, you just can't.
You either go all in or go rigid.
Find any good in its day suspension fork, and see if you can still buy parts for it and buy it.
Gotta be something out there
Are you out there

spaceship said:
But I like the squishy squish
 
calab said:
$$$$$$$
You can not cheap out on suspension components, you just can't.
You either go all in or go rigid.
Find any good in its day suspension fork, and see if you can still buy parts for it and buy it.
Gotta be something out there
Are you out there

spaceship said:
But I like the squishy squish

Its really not that bad, I cranked the $#@% out of the quick release spindle and used a rubber mallet to close the toggle and that helped, probably could use a new spindle or replace the QR axle with a solid axle. When using both brakes like I normally would it feels fine.

On my local marketplace there are some mid 2000s downhill bikes coming up in the $400-$700 range so I think I will leave this bike alone and grab one of these used DH bikes with beefier suspension and brakes.

I have some 350w front hubs that I need to lace onto rims, maybe I'll throw one on this Kona as a commuter and move the rear hub to a DH bike with a new controller and battery with speed in mind.
 
I'd think twice (actually only need to once) before putting a hub motor on an old (or any) suspension fork.
 
2old said:
I'd think twice (actually only need to once) before putting a hub motor on an old (or any) suspension fork.

Duly noted. I think the problem I was having was mostly the quick release spindle not clamping tight enough. The forks seem ok.

It seems that many people do ride front hub on suspension forks without any problems. With keeping the power within a reasonable limit I think it would be fine. Its a 350W hub, not 1000W.
 
spaceship said:
It seems that many people do ride front hub on suspension forks without any problems. With keeping the power within a reasonable limit I think it would be fine. Its a 350W hub, not 1000W.
OK but this is what you want to avoid at all costs:
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It can happen, and it has in fact happened before.

As you say, 350W front hubmotor presents less abuse to the forks, but--

Here is some good advice:

* All the mating surfaces must be in plane, especially the axle nuts and axle shoulders to dropout facings. (You may have inadvertently started some aluminum microfracture damage by hammering the QR closed.)

* Use good high-quality well-engineered TAs, properly installed. If the (weakish) front dropouts fail, at least you have more hope the TAs can keep the front wheel located until you can safely stop.

* You can do it, just do it intelligently with good components and keep up with the frequent inspections.
 
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