Seeking frame options for a dual suspension ebike

strepto

1 mW
Joined
Aug 29, 2016
Messages
19
Location
Brisbane
Hi everyone,

I've been riding a MAC converted hybrid ebike for years, but it's getting long in the tooth (and was recently underwater for several days which has... aged it somewhat...).

I'm also getting a bit older and sick of Brisbane's bumpy roads so I'd really love to build up something with dual suspension for my next ebike.

The main issue I'm finding is that most modern frames are using thru axles, and the rear geared hub motor I'd like to use (the GMAC) isn't going to work with those.

So I'm wondering if anyone can point me in the direction of a frame with the following attributes - and yes I realise I'm chasing a unicorn here...

- dual suspension
- XL size (I'm a tall guy)
- 29" / 700C wheels
- quick release style rear dropouts
- somehow available in Australia
- not crazy expensive ($3000AUD would be pushing it)
- a bit of room inside the body of the frame for a battery (less important as batteries can be mounted on the top of the bar but would still be useful)

So far I've found one older frame (https://www.norco.com/bike-archives/2017/fluid-fs-92/) but if anyone has pointers on other models to seek I'd be most grateful.

Failing dual suspension, a hard tail is also an option, but I'd like to investigate the dual option first. I've also considered the grin all axle motor but front wheel drive seems less appealing / safe to me.
 
Might be more work than you want to do, but if you're willing to make the right axle mount for it, you can use the GAA on the rear. If you need the pedal chain to still be functional, you'd need to modify the sidecover to accomodate at least one sprocket; this has been done on other motors by cutting an old regular rear hub up to get the rightside threaded flange section to be bolted to the motor side cover (after removing any bearing cups/etc and possibly removing the lip there to clear the axle/wiring.)
 
Going with 26 inch wheel will open up a lot more choices.
Thru axle and 29er got popular around the same time, so harder to find one without the other, and there's a lot of old downhill frames in 26"

From my experience having the same geared motor in different diameter wheels, it performed much better in a 26, esp on any kind of hill, but barely noticable top speed loss.
 
GT Helion and Sensor and Giant Maestro-suspended 29er bikes, if available in AU, might do well for you. The shock is next to the bottom bracket affording a large area for batteries.
 
I ended up building mine around a chinese frame from Himalo. Been pretty pleased with it so far. Finish is a little cheesy, but it seems plenty strong from my usage. You'll want to go through all the bearings and put a dab of loctite on the bolts though. I had mine start to back off until I did that, never an issue since.


Regarding build - I have a BBSHD in mine and it does hang a touch low on the 27.5/L size. It still has ground clearance on bottom out, but the breakover angle is a bit lame if you're going over any roots or obstacles taller than a curb.

Maybe something that tucks up high like a CYC unit would improve this. Or cut/weld in an integrated unit from bosch or bafang?

https://i.imgur.com/5cWv976.png
 
Voltron said:
Going with 26 inch wheel will open up a lot more choices.
Thru axle and 29er got popular around the same time, so harder to find one without the other, and there's a lot of old downhill frames in 26"

From my experience having the same geared motor in different diameter wheels, it performed much better in a 26, esp on any kind of hill, but barely noticable top speed loss.

Good point about wheel size.

I am thinking about the same type of build, and I have been looking at used bikes online. Lots of older full suspension, 26" wheel bikes available. Some of the older frame geometries are more suitable for a mid drive. The problem is where do you put the battery?
 
You are on the right track looking at older FS 26" models. You are very likely to find rear QR droputs. Some have a more open main triangle than others. IIRC, Specialized Epic was one of those. Kona Stinky? There are some threads here on ES talking about (older) open frame FS models. Here is a good one:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=112438

And, in your favor, the larger sizes naturally have larger triangle spaces.

I am happily riding a (2007?) Giant Reign DH model. Triangle opening somewhat cramped but I strapped my slimjim batteries on either side of the top tube, didn't lose any standover height clearance.

DH bikes have plenty of suspension travel, well reinforced, with strong componentry. Just make sure the susp. bearings/bushings are in good condition, or easily obtained.
 
Thanks for all the ideas guys!

Yeah I know 26" will be a lot easier to come by. I guess I'm sort of attached to 29/700c after riding that size wheel for so long, plus I have spare tyres and so on.

The little speed boost is also nice to have, although it's really only 3kph on the Grin simulator, so maybe I'm weighting that too much.

Will do some more googling!
 
I have many of the same reasons except I am no longer long in the tooth .... no teeth left except for the ones on the rear sprocket :(

I have a couple of additional high priority parameters which are step through and a rear rack. I want to be able to use it to go to the grocery store and back via pavements that are somewhat less than ideal. I also will not accept anything that has a proprietary electrical system like Bosh. I have decided that I must compromise my parameters for those highest priorities. For full suspension that leaves me looking at a moped style bike with Fat tires (usually 20 x 4) that I am not overly fond of. On the plus side, I am told that those help handle the cracks, pot-holes and washboards commonly found on the poorly maintained urban pavements. Also wider tires are taller tires so the difference between a 24 or 26 inch rim and a 20 inch rim is not as great as one might expect.
 
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