New Enduro/clone build

More pics

For the derailer I used a small piece of cable to hold it in line for my single speed 16 tooth. Works great! Plus it has a clutch so it’s easy to switch the chain on the 3 different chain rings but typically I leave it in the large/58T so I can pedal at 20+ miles per hour.

Very nice ride, black on black is always good, it deceives the eye of anyone looking your way.
The red accent rear spring and crank is a nice touch, personal preference for me is all black.

Those are good gears to have, will have to read up on what your using.
Those are the gears I want for a crank. Not that I'd go fast, but I like to think I am actively pedaling but I prefer slow cadence.

58t, 32t, 22t for now

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Single rear gear #? You posted 2 different ones, prev page.

Shimano 16 tooth the other is a 22 tooth sunlight.

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Is that a normal RD Zee, for chain tension?
I would buy that bike off you, how much you want for it? :lol:

Eastwood said:

More pics

For the derailer I used a small piece of cable to hold it in line for my single speed 16 tooth. Works great! Plus it has a clutch so it’s easy to switch the chain on the 3 different chain rings but typically I leave it in the large/58T so I can pedal at 20+ miles per hour.

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markz said:

Very nice ride, black on black is always good, it deceives the eye of anyone looking your way.
The red accent rear spring and crank is a nice touch, personal preference for me is all black.

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Thanks!

I probably need to up the LBS on the spring another 100lbs. Have a 600 right now maybe should get a 700lbs. Thought about maybe getting a yellow spring to mix it up. Yes I agree black on black is very stealth looking.

markz said:

Those are good gears to have, will have to read up on what your using.
Those are the gears I want for a crank. Not that I'd go fast, but I like to think I am actively pedaling but I prefer slow cadence.

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Yeah I’m loving this 58 tooth chainring, anything below 10 mph it’s a slow crawl but like you, I prefer the slow cadence. Much better than spinning my legs super fast. The 58T shines anywhere between 10mph to 20mph. At 25 mph the cadence is getting faster. Still can pedal at 30 mph but the cadence starts to get super fast, but I really don’t like to pedal too much faster than 20/25-ish mph.

markz said:

Single rear gear #? You posted 2 different ones, prev page.
Shimano 16 tooth the other is a 22 tooth sunlight.

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I end up going with the Shimano 16 tooth. A few reasons, for one it fits my current chain and also this freewheel is super quiet which is very desirable in my opinion. The 22 tooth was super loud. It felt pretty cheap and I could feel some slight play in it. While the Shimano feels super solid.

markz said:

Is that a normal RD Zee, for chain tension?
I would buy that bike off you, how much you want for it? :lol:

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The derailer is SHIMANO RD-M640 Zee Shadow Plus
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q4P7UQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_88KFW96DMJZ58AEK5BJV?psc=1

Haha I don’t even know how much :lol:

Just received my second battery :thumb:
This new pack is the exact same as my existing battery.
Will connect these in parallel to have a total of 40 amp hours, 160amp discharge, 80 A each.

Charging the new pack now to equal voltage and will connect these today

Was planning on building a 24S battery but I was able to get the second battery for very cheap, so went this route. So for now this bike will stay at 72 V with the QS205 6T.

Upping the voltage means getting more total watts (good for hills) and of course speed.
36V 35A is 1260W which is good for a casual ride for me and a good workout on certain hills.
Same bike has 52V 40A battery but 35A controller so 52x35=1800W which is good for 95% of the hills and I dont go fast, I just wanted the extra total watts for the hills to go up faster. 36V bogs down.

I was thinking today, when I do go Stealth/Enduro style ebike suitcase frame I'm going 72V 40A (Grintech) or 50A (Luna) and limit the speed because its to tempting and I dont want broken ribs again. I don't know where else to buy from a reputable reputable builder. Maybe UPP has higher discharge amps in 72V, or OSN, or find a good hard cased prismatic, but that loses a lot of space with the casement. Pouches might be suitable, but they need to be compressed which isnt a big deal.

Well I’m one connector short from making a parallel connection but thanks to Amazon it will be here early in the morning. Ordered some XT 90 anti-spark.

Pretty much got the batteries mounted and also the controller. I shorten up the phase wires as they were way too long and it was actually bending, creating an issue as you can see in the pictures below. Chopped the phase wires about 1 foot, they were super long.

markz said:

Maybe UPP has higher discharge amps in 72V,

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There 72v US stock has a 50a bms. Or you can order from China which you can get with a 60a bms. Amazon is the quickest if you want a 50 amp bms but if you want the 60 amp buy through the website. I receive my battery less than two weeks and I believe the shipping was only about $35, not bad.

I’ve been running this battery at 80 A :lol: it barely gets warm. I wasn’t the first to try this, know a guy that has the same pack and he runs at 100 A and it’s almost 2 years old and still no issues lol not bad for a cheap battery 8)
Now that I have a second battery I can stop beating my first one to death. So for now with this controller each battery will only be pulling 40 A, they don’t even get warm at 80 A so I’m sure the efficiency will be greater. Well for now until I get the the 72200 unlocked, but I’ll still only run around 120 battery amps and then phase amps at 400-ish. The unlocked can go up to 550 phase amps
probably saturation at that point, we’ll see.

It's always nice to have enough battery. You get more watts by not straining a battery.

ZeroEm said:

It's always nice to have enough battery. You get more watts by not straining a battery.

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Nice, more watts
Yeah I’m sure my efficiency was low with the single battery beating it to death. I’m curious to see what the voltage drop will be at now since there’s two packs. Will find out soon almost got this thing wrapped up, got the parallel connections made and now topping off the batteries to equal voltage.

Almost there!
I was able to fit 8 gauge wire in the XT-90 :thumb:

As I have little interest in 'off road' bikes I usually do not bother with these threads. Having said that, I have to offer my compliments on a very nice build although I would classify more as an electric Mo-ped than an E-Bike :thumb:

Are those mechanically fastened XT's?
Like your phases are.

You could be a hand model :wink:

LewTwo said:

As I have little interest in 'off road' bikes I usually do not bother with these threads. Having said that, I have to offer my compliments on a very nice build although I would classify more as an electric Mo-ped than an E-Bike :thumb:

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Thank you for the compliment! Yes I consider this build more of a dirtbike with pedals. Definitely beyond the E bike limits right :wink:

markz said:

Are those mechanically fastened XT's?
Like your phases are.

You could be a hand model :wink:

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The XT 90-S came like this, pic below
I don’t enjoy soldering these type of connectors
Took me way too long to make that parallel connection.

I prefer to use these pole connectors and use a torch and heat up the terminal fill it with solder, then slam the wire in there quickly before it cools down. It’s so quick and super solid connection. With these dang XT 60s and 90s I spend forever trying to get them soldered properly. My connections were good it just took way too long
Glad that part is over with

markz said:

You could be a hand model :wink:

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:lol:

Practice some jumping today. Nothing too crazy just learning the bike, it’s heavy! Really happy with the excel rims. It’s a complete different bike compared to those super Moto mountain bike wheels.

And an update on the added parallel battery is working out great! Loving the extra range as it’s actually a little bit more than double the range. Can keep the power turned all the way up without having to worry about conserving battery. Can basically play twice as long at full power where before I was keeping it around 60% power

Next part of this build will be upgrading the controller or I might hack the one I have now and see what happens :lol
But yes I need more phase amps for the extreme Hillclimb‘s I’ve been doing lately. The QS205 V3 6T is performing extremely well with off-road. Tons of torque!
Obviously there’s the upspring from the heavy hub motor but that is the only complaint. I think I’ve been actually critical of hub motors off road until I use this one now my opinion has changed with having a 6T winding.

I have an mx back ground and i still enjoy my build most wkds.Yes like you said the hub can act strange in some parts of a trail but when you know what to expect you find yourself adapting.Also a hub based build was a must for my local woods as a noisy chain drive would just draw unwanted attention.I also run the 6t but on a 22s 8p 4200 molicel setup and around 240 ish dc and 500 ph :thumb: amps and is a little silent rocket around the woods :thumb:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AQgGiAm_3lE

speedy1984 said:

Also a hub based build was a must for my local woods as a noisy chain drive would just draw unwanted attention.

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Yeah that’s great point!

speedy1984 said:

I have an mx back ground and i still enjoy my build most wkds.

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Nice me too, mx back ground! Yeah these bikes do really well off-road, like you mentioned just learn to adapt with the heavy hub :thumb:
I’ve been primarily riding on ATV trails with pretty extreme elevation with no complaints, well except my 7280 controller lol
I’m at 80dc 200phase which is enough in most circumstances but not quite enough for some stuff.
Will have the svmc72200 unlocked next week. Definitely need that big power for extreme hill climbs. Well also because it’s about 10x as fun :lol:
So glad that I went with the 6T winding for off road use, and seen your forest ride videos that got thinking about the 6T. Was planing on going with the 5T.

speedy1984 said:

22s 8p 4200 molicel setup and around 240 ish dc and 500 ph

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Nice, Big power! What controller?
How’s the heat with 500 phase amps? I’ll be trying soon

Another update :thumb:
So as some of you know I had some issues with my controller and the rear hub. Everything is sorted now. My controller was giving me over current errors as the controller was wearing out and also not enough power for the heavy load of this bike. So I purchased a new controller SVMC 72200 unlocked version. Then the issue with my motor, water got inside the hub motor and rusted everything. I was able to give it a couple of acid baths and got rid of all the rust, reassembled and everything is working again :thumb:

So the main update is for the new controller. Very satisfied with the added power. The old 80 amp controller is not enough for the heavy QS205 V3 50h. Been playing with the settings on the new controller and right now I have DC current at 120, phase amps 400. The power difference is unreal! Have to be very cautious to not loop out with this 6T winding motor. This build has become a real monster of an E bike, love it

This new controller really transform this build into something really powerful. Feel like I never even used my QS205 until I connected this controller :lol:
Some of the new features are E brake throttle, 3 speed switch - no display, reverse. Also has an H break 12v but don’t have that connected for now. Dc amps 250max, phase amps 550 max

Sabvoton Mqcon SVMC72200 Unlock Version
https://a.aliexpress.com_msjp1ma

I’m still sorting out other small details. I’ll continue to update as I finish the details on this bike. Will be putting motorcycle pegs on soon, Plan to switch back-and-forth from Moto pegs to bicycle pedals. Well that’s the plan for now at least :wink:

I’ll post some video soon of the bike in action, it’s a monster now with this new controller!

Did you give the motor a coat inside to stop the rust?
5305 rebuilt after rust damage

That motor sure looked wide, I just had to find out what it was. 80A and I assume 72V, 6kw and its probably a cool cat huh

Eastwood said:

heavy QS205 V3 50h

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ZeroEm said:

Did you give the motor a coat inside to stop the rust?
5305 rebuilt after rust damage

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Well this is something I contemplated really hard. I watch Doctorbass YouTube video as well on the subject. I ultimately chose to not paint the inside for a few reasons mainly to see if it would come back unprotected. Everyone says you can’t seal these motors 100% and I would like to test this out.

So I’ve sealed the motor the best it can be and feel certain that Water will not enter the hub. So let’s see what happens with this motor if it begins to rust again or not. Obviously I’m hoping it doesn’t but if rust occurs again I will take it back apart give it 3 acid bath and then paint.
This Time 2 acid baths Got rid of all the rust. I think it was good after the first bath but I did a second one just to be sure. Used a heat gun to dry the motor quickly so no rust would begin to form. also set it out in the sunlight before reassembling and kept rotating the motor allowing those UV rays to dry up any moisture. Used JB Weld high temp RTV gasket maker. Use the same stuff on my MXUS 3k rebuild and had no rust issues. In fact I would spray the mxus With a water hose basically daily to help with overheating and never had 1 spec of rust. This dang QS motor rusted within the first month :lol:
The water was entering through the side plate covers as there was tons of rust where the core and plates meet.

markz said:

That motor sure looked wide, I just had to find out what it was. 80A and I assume 72V, 6kw and its probably a cool cat huh

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Yeah wide and real heavy :lol:
The reverse feature on the new controller is a must.

Oh and the 80amp was for the last controller. I have the DC current at 120 as of now but today I will turn it up to have some fun 8)
So today’s test I will try 160 DC amps, 450 phase amps haven’t went past 120dc and 400 phase amps yet.
Or maybe I should set the phase amps to 500, I don’t want to take it to the max of 550 and risk blowing the controller. There’s no warranty on this unlocked controller :wink:

Was reading up on the Acid bath. Seems it alters the metal on the surface and makes it harder to rust the next time. I live in a humid area and the Trike has been drove thru a surprise rain storm. The issue is not water coming in as much as when it heats up it pushes air out as it expands, then when cooling pulls some back in. Not much you can do about that. May depend where you live.

When I pull mine open to change out the thermistor will see how it is doing. If no rust then no worries, if so then maybe a coat of red varnish.

by Eastwood » Nov 16 2021 11:09am

ZeroEm wrote: ↑Nov 15 2021 2:25pm
Did you give the motor a coat inside to stop the rust?

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5305 rebuilt after rust damage
Well this is something I contemplated really hard. I watch Doctorbass YouTube video as well on the subject. I ultimately chose to not paint the inside for a few reasons mainly to see if it would come back unprotected. Everyone says you can’t seal these motors 100% and I would like to test this out.

So I’ve sealed the motor the best it can be and feel certain that Water will not enter the hub. So let’s see what happens with this motor if it begins to rust again or not. Obviously I’m hoping it doesn’t but if rust occurs again I will take it back apart give it 3 acid bath and then paint.
This Time 2 acid baths Got rid of all the rust. I think it was good after the first bath but I did a second one just to be sure. Used a heat gun to dry the motor quickly so no rust would begin to form. also set it out in the sunlight before reassembling and kept rotating the motor allowing those UV rays to dry up any moisture. Used JB Weld high temp RTV gasket maker. Use the same stuff on my MXUS 3k rebuild and had no rust issues. In fact I would spray the mxus With a water hose basically daily to help with overheating and never had 1 spec of rust. This dang QS motor rusted within the first month :lol:
The water was entering through the side plate covers as there was tons of rust where the core and plates meet.

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ZeroEm said:

The issue is not water coming in as much as when it heats up it pushes air out as it expands, then when cooling pulls some back in. Not much you can do about that. May depend where you live.

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Yeah that makes sense. I wonder where the air could be pulled in and pushed out if everything is sealed. My guess would be through the wires themselves. Unless there wasn’t enough grease inside the bearings and maybe humid air could be pulled in.

ZeroEm said:

Was reading up on the Acid bath. Seems it alters the metal on the surface and makes it harder to rust

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This product supposedly protects the metal up to 12 months. That was also a part of my thinking with not painting this time.

This is all interesting. The motor was not designed to be air tight, just water resistant. Some do extra sealing to keep FF in the motor. The covers may leak, any bolt that goes thru the housing and the wire run are all causes. Would not worry to much unless you ride in water. When running FF would put a bead of sealant around each cover and any bolt that goes thru. Some try to put some inside the motor where the wires come out. You could add some where they go thru.

Ride it for a year then pull it open to look.