guancio said:
motomech said:
Also, I'm assuming that Bafang mounts the original cassette so you are at 14 /28 now. That's a fairly useless gearing for an Ebike unless you are limited to 15 MPH (sorry, we don't think in Kilometers). It should relatively easy (inexpensive) to get something like a 11 or 12/46 or 48 gearing which would allow you to have a good cadence while cruising.
They don't need to be of the highest quality for an ebike and the mid-grade stuff works fine. when everything on a hub motor ebike is working right, the rider doesn't need to shift much, just the lowest two or three gears and never the chain rings. In fact, the smaller frt chainrings and frt. shifter are not used at all.
Agree and unfortunately when I've bought the engine I've decided to opt for the same system of the original bike: a freewheel. It is OK to pedal up to 7.8 m/s (sorry, we are SI extremists
).
I'm actually planning to buy a 11 rear. However, a 11T freewheel seems challenging to find and many people complain about DNP or the fact that 11T put too much stress on the chain. An alternative could be to have 48 or 52 front.
I'm of the minority that doesn't think the DNP is that bad, and perhaps the lack of love comes from the serious road bike crowd who would never like anything that can be weighed in Kilo's.
I'm on my third and here's my take on the DNP' when used on an ebike.
Good or indifferent;
1)I think there may have been some mid-production improvements, My last two seem smoother and quieter. On #2, I soaked it a bucket of oil overnight, not sure it made it better, but it sure made a mess for weeks.
2)It doesn't matter if the free wheel ratchet is not the smoothest when mounted on a geared motor, as it is the internal sprag clutch of the motor free wheels some of time.
3) the fact that it is heavy is not that big a deal when a 2Kg. to 5Kg. motor is already in the whl. When you come to understand that you need rear suspension, it will be even less of a factor.
4)The shifting can be improved. Due to the shark-fin shape of the teeth, the derailluer should up close and further under the gear-set. Adjust the derailleur for the three lowest gears that will be used.
Not so good;
1)It's pricey
2)It doesn't come apart, so no replacing the, first to wear out, 11T sm. gear.
Common to all free whl.s;
1)It's difficult to unscrew it off once used. The pedal action tightens it on the motor.
Bottom-line;
It's pretty much all there is and you need the 11T gear. And it looks as if your chainstay is not going to allow any big chain-ring over 48T before it hits, if that.
