Marin Wild Cat Trail

the build is
crystallite hs3540r
phaserunner
ca 2.3
13s5p- lg mh1 cells
im switching the rear tire to a duro razorback 24x3.0

I needed to test the hanging battery before putting it on my sons bike so I put this together, 13s5p is 65 cells so you could actually do a 16s4p battery in that case with higher amp cells. ill keep adding pics as I build this bike with a different battery and clean up the wiring

cutting axle to fit torque

theres actually 2 torque arms, one on each side of the motor mounted the same way. ill be making torque plates but I needed these on for testing the bike.

went for a ride, tried not to go over 2000 watts because the battery is fused at 40 amps. im actually surprised how the bike did at 48v and 2000 watts. ca is km/h

I left with 54.3v and this was after a quick trip

battery is 16ah

8volt battery sag, lg mh1 aren't made for this kind of bike. this battery is going to be used with a little 500 watt geared hub. I have 25r packs that I share between my bikes. ill post more later. a 26 inch hookworm on the front and this could be a fun city bike

added 3s4p to a 14s4p for 17s4p of 25r. need to get a bms for it. made a basic mold for a fiberglass shell with a 3/16 aluminum plate. just waiting for the rain to stop.

ive been fitting the battery case to the bike, now I just need to finish shaping and sanding and paint

didn't want wires running up the side of the battery, I had room for 18s so I used cell holders and filled the cavity with silicone to act as a bumper. most of the battery weight will be there.





I loaded up the silicone and will trim it later





just need to make some kind of cap/nose for the battery case.

I cut about 1/2 inch of the axle on 3 sides so I have 3/4 inch of clamping on the axle. the clamping torque arm wraps around the drop out at 3 points and the derailleur hanger screws into it. it was 1 inch plate aluminum





clamping bolt , I filed the axle so the bolt is keyed to the axle

needed 3/8 inch to mount the brake caliper, I made another clamping torque arm, different style. its 3/8 aluminum plate clamped with 1/4 inch screws. I think im going to make another one or change how I bolt it. im clearing the rotor by 1/8 inch . ill see how it does.

I also replaced the motor cable because there was an intermiitent short giving me a blown hall sensor code from the phaserunner, the halls tested fine so I figured cable and it was. set my regen amps to 20 and cleared the fault code.

no more error codes and wheel is now solid so I cranked the throttle/ no load to max speed 85km/h then hit regen, I saw 400 watts on regen. I might bump it upto 30 amps but im only 4p of 25r, I need to check max quick charge amp for the cell.

I bumped the regen amps to 30, clamping torque arms are solid and im pulling 700 watts on the regen.

at 3500 watts, 70v and 51 amps *edit my ca3 was set to 65km/h max speed*



at 3000 watts



im getting bad volt sag, 7 volts



so at 58.6 itll sag to 51v and ah is 7ah from a 10ah pack, its high resistance or dead cell or batteries are tired so I opened pack up



its only 1 layer of nickelstrip and 1 entire series connection is missing. nickelstrip can only carry 7?amps so 21 amps so I soldered 16 gauge copper to all series connections





plastidip



I use 1/2 thick silicone as a bumper so nothing rubs the connections



I don't have a bms for this yet so I have pos and neg wires for each p group in the straws and I can manually balance the pack.

next dry day ill see if that fixed the volt sag

I got the sag down to 5/6 volts under hard riding so I knocked the watts down to 2500 watts and now the sag is 4/5 volts, its still a lot of fun at 2500 watts and strong regen. trying to decide if im going to use a 17s4p 40T pack or 5p of 30Q

one of the problems building these bikes is there is a limit line and I think im there and going over it a bit.

the 3540 is bit heavy for a bicycle, I might switch it to a xf40 with statorade 1kg less weight or something that can take 2500 watts

the tire at 3.0 is a little heavy so im going to see what I can find in 2.6 to 2.8

the battery is a little undersized for the 3000 watts,

the bikes at 70lbs, I don't want another 100+lb bike and that's where this build will wind up at.

im actually waiting to see what happens with the Sinister R9 build. If his battery can handle the power demands of a mxus V3 turbo ill do the 40t pack and leave the rest of the bike alone because its a blast to ride and I don't go off road

I had 60 cells of used Panasonic 18650pd 10amp/2900mah, I got them off my battery guy for cheap so I yanked the nickel strip off, long story short they were 4.18v about 6 months ago last week I checked them and 52 were all 4.09v but 1 cell was showing electrolysis on one of the spotwelds where the nickel strip had been, so garbage. 51 cells, 17s3p is 51 cells, I decided to make a backpack battery.

17s3p of 18650pd is 30 amps and 8.7ah and weighs 7lbs

I paralleled to my 25r4p pack charging connection and I used a 10 amp fuse in between the bike battery and backpack battery



when using different battery types there can be issues with resistance so I started with a 10 amp fuse and wanted to see when it would blow.

phaserunner was set at 2500 watts the batteries were at 69. went outside thinking id blow the fuse right away but no. I was pulling 2200 watts up a hill, pull over and check the ca max amps were 36 amps. 7p at 36a is 5amps per cell, that should blow the 10amp fuse. I rode the bike hard for 15km trying to blow the fuse but couldn't. went home unplugged the packs and tested the pack voltages. 25r was 0.5v lower than the Panasonics (the Panasonics appear to have the higher resistance) plugged the packs backtogether. changed the phaserunner to 3500watts had a coffee, checked the batteries and they were 0.1v apart.

another test run, blew the 10 amp fuse right away at about 2700 watts so I replaced it with a 15 amp fuse to see if I could blow it but I couldn't. my battery was about 60v, the ca was showing 2700 watts but it said my amps were at 50. im not going to up my amps for a test when I can just charge my battery. I only went about 1km uphill trying to blow the fuse and when I got off the bike I checked the voltages and the packs were 60.2v for the 25r and 60.9v for the pd so I just plugged them back together to balance them.

at 2700 watts my packs drifted apart by 0.7v after a quick/hard km ride, couldn't blow a 15amp fuse, theres going to be issues if riding hard

at 2200 watts my packs only drifted 0.5v apart, I couldn't blow a 10 amp fuse and 15km of hard riding, seems perfectly fine

conclusion

at 2500 watts and 10 amp fuse, no problems, ride like a madman. 2700 watts of hard riding you might start blowing 15 amp fuses as the pack voltages drift apart. the pd is higher resistance so its volts will be higher and will behave like a battery charger. a 25r can receive 4amps for fast charging. 4p of 25r is 16amps of fast charging so if the 25r tries to suck more than 15 amps from the pd pack the fuse will blow. ill have to see what happens at the lower voltages though. suppose to snow tomorrow so ill add more info when I can test again.

also if anyone is following this thread about volt sag and what batteries I might use, I was basically running a 7p pack today and my volt sag didn't change 4/5v so if I want less sag the problem isn't the battery I could probably beef up my wiring to lower resistance. been reading some threads, I wouldn't use a 30q, im looking at 40t and 50E at 4p. if you look at the numbers im sharing. the bike at 2200 watts 36amps and 70v is a fun bike. 4p of 50e is 20ah and 40 amps and should have atleast twice the cycle life than a 40t 4p 16ah.

its funny I just linked to this thread, 3 months later and I would never use a 50E on this bike now. 4p or 5p of 30q, 4p of 40t or 4p of Lg HG2

the kenda flame sidewalls are paper thin and cany handle the regen. I bought a 24x2.8/3.0 Mongoose from amazon. outside diameter is 25 1/4 inchs and 3.0 wide. tire says chao wang not mongoose, sidewalls are thicker, see how these handle regen.