So time to address the elephant in the room.
This thing hauls ass and to be a responsible parent and ensure a slight modicum of safety I guess brakes are maybe a good idea.
Ok so options were:
Mechanical,
Pros: They are tried and tested, nobody will question them, they will work with the power off.
Cons: Wont be nice for 3 years old fingers to pull, super inefficient, don't have parts during lockdown.
Electrical:
Pros: Wont add weight, slick, fun to try figure out how to do, can print the lever,
Cons: I have no idea what i'm doing with electronics, i may / may not have the parts here? Don't work with power off.
So first step was to figure out if this was possible, i have a vague idea how servo signals work from years of RC. I had a spare servo tester lying around so i thought it'll e better to fry that one that blow up the one in his bike. So a servo tester has a pot that gives a varying resistance and a little brain that sees that voltage drop and converts it to PWM that the esc understands. Its not at all like the hall effect system that ebikes normally use.
First thing research, i found a post about a guy wanting to put a dual rate knob onto a rc car remote, so went down that rabbit hole and read up on putting pots in series and parallel, but could get my head around it until i found this site.
http://www.falstad.com/circuit/ the guys that made this deserve a big ol high five (one we rid of this Covid19 situation)
I need to gibe a big thanks to my friend Mark Beets for putting up with my endless questions about circuitry.
This gadget is absolutely amazing and it was so nice to be able to figure out what i need to do.
Started off measuring the pot in the servo tester at 10k ohms so drew that into the app, then added switches and an ohm meter to figure out firstly what happens when you adjust the pot, then secondly how to cheat the circuit into doing what we want.
i dug through my boxes of old crap and found 3 resistors, tester them and they were 217 ohms each. so popped that into the app and very luckily they were the perfect resistance to cheat the circuit into thinking the pot was turned to almost full brake!!!!!!
So quick interlude, RC car ESC's work like this:
0- middle is from full reverse to neutral, middle to full is throttle. ESC wont arm if the position isn't middle when it turns on.
so we had the middle to full throttle sorted but needed to have away to make it brake.
most esc's you can set to reverse/forward, reverse/brake/forward or brake/forward. that option was the win for us.
At first i though id have to have a SPDT switch that disconnected the normal pot and switched over to the "brake" circuit, but i realised that we didn't need to kill the original circuit, we could just jump ontop of it, not sure it thats proper electronics terminology. but if we jumped from the input to wiper of the pot with one of the resistors it's perfect to be full brake without disconnecting the pot!!! bingo.
So next stage was solder in the wires and resistor (which i learnt can be used both ways) and we managed to liberate a tiny push button momentary switch from the fried servo tester.
The switch is tiny with a 6mm square base and a 3mm button on top.
So back into fusion360
and time to draw a brake lever that will integrate with his current throttle body. gotta keep back brake on the right...