Kuberg freerider 2.0

Ianhill

1 MW
Joined
Sep 25, 2015
Messages
2,871
Ive had a kuberg freerider for a good while now I got it second hand rebuilt it soon as I got it and now it's due again so here's a build thread if the mods I got planned for the old girl.
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Stock the bike comes with a trails 14-3.00 rear tyre on 10t/80t sprockets with a custom 7 bolt pattern on the rear hub, that's limiting me to using the stock rear sprocket unless I change the hub, I've done some measurements and the rear dropout is 128mm with a 14mm axle on a 36h hub.
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Oset 16 racing uses the same 128mm 36h hub but with a 6 bolt pattern that fits an oset sprocket carrier so 219 go kart sprockets can be used they also make a 9 tooth front sprocket so I can drop my head to 9-1 and change my top speed from 34mph to 30mph bit increase torque at the rear wheel not that it's needed but I drive off-road alot below top speed so a bump in torque and range is a blessing and i can always swap to a tarmac set up if needed.
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The chain is long and expensive so I've got a 219 kart chain splitter and ill be making my own, the first chain is costing me more but over time I'll save money joining them myself and ill have the option of trying out o ring chains in the future.
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The brakes on the bike are decent but stopping faster is just as important and going quicker when the road is ruff, the stock 2 pots and 203 rotors stop the bike well but 220mm magura mdr p rotor front and back with shimano saint 4pots will stop the bike better and give me some decent modulation when the going gets tough.
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The stock charger on the bike failed few month back so I looked about and found chargery I got a c10325 24s 1500w version that gives me room to charge in as little as 40 mins in the future
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Only thing I don't like about the charger is the charge connector with its lead and grommet over time that looks like a weak spot so I ordered panel mount anderson connector to mod the chargers front panel ill show a few pics and bit more detail when I get time to fit them.
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I also got a front shock rebuild kit and got fluid on the way the shock still feels lovely to use but it's wise to give it a rebuild keep it fresh, as I get stuff done I'll post some more details my plan is to push the power on the bike up in the future but as to what way I go I'm unsure yet there's a 14kw controller available but I want to look inside the stock battery first see what cell holders it uses as to if I can increase it's cell count in the same foot print as to what to what final voltage I use, but any questions or what ever feel free to ask away.
 
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Got the charger connector fitted, it's not easy because the front has slats so you have to be careful opening up a hole, I used a step drill the hole needs to be 26mm or there abouts for a nice tight fit i clamped it too a bit of wood and just took my time little pressure as possible and ended up with a decent result

There's not much room inside the charger so the hole must follow where the factory wire comes out and then clip the wires back with a bit of slack to allow removing the faceplate for fitting, overall I'm happy with the result much more versatile now just alter my charge lead to suit and I'm done much better.
 
Tommm said:
I can't get past that tiny wheel... why... just why. :cry:

I don't understand why such large wheels on current bikes the 29er makes them numb and crap, the bike looks wierd no doubt but it's geometry ain't to bad it climbs decent small wheel or not it's a very lively frame easy to jump about good learner.

The 14-3.00 tyre is the same rim a oset 20 racing uses and there's a extended swing arm for those that are over 6ft but I'm 6ft and I'm comfy on it and say it's the limit of the frame.
 
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I managed to take 4mm off the toggle switch I didn't like it standing so proud of the front panel, inside the plastic shroud that pushes over the switch is a 8mm hole to fit over a 4mm switch so there's 4mm up for grabs so I took it, I'm proberly the only silly f*#ker that will take apart a new charger for the sake of a connector after 1 charge but for the sake of £8.90 id of paid the extra for it to have come like it stock.
 
armandd said:
Congrats on your new ride. How much is it, if you don't mind? :eek:

I got the kuberg a year ago now I payed £1700 but it needed a few bearings i spent about £50 stripes it rebuilt it and had a year fun out if it now it's time to progress it a bit further unlock the potential.
 
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I've swapped the bars over from 31.8mm×720 to 35mm ×750 bars, this means the stem needed replacing to the 35mm standard so I went with a 30mm riser to allow me to cut a bit of the steerer post so the front end looks more in proportion.

The only way to remove the stackers is to use a 26inch front wheel that way a direct mount clamp could be used straight on the forks that's what downhill bikes with this fork tend to use but I honestly do like my small wheels makes the bike feel lively light and chuckable granted I don't flow as smooth through extreme rutts but technical climbing i say the smaller wheel wins.

Next up is the rear wheel I've returned the oset 16 hub it's the correct width but it has spacers and is 10mm to narrow and just spaced out to 128mm so I think the oset 20 r hub is my best bet and waiting on them to send me one it looks simular but has 12mm extra width but the spacers look huge mine are small so last chance is i can make that work or im stuck with the stock hub and I don't like the sprocket 7 bolt iso at all without making a custom carrier im stuck and I already have the 6 bolt iso carrier so I'm not giving up and wasting money the hub seems the cheapest way but it's also the most risky one.
 
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Swapped my rear hub with oset from the 16.0 r to the 20.0r and even though it's 10mm wider with out the spacers it matches the kuberg hub so I can rebuild that wheel know and have some gearing choice.
Fitted my new bars I've got an steerer tube strenghtner to fit so I'll cut a bit more of my top tube and get that on.
Next is sourcing a new controller, I'm on the case for a sc 0640 from silixcon that will give me a new top power of 15kw and config setup with laptop allowing field weakening, motor over temp throttle response and much more.
 
John in CR said:
Is such a small diameter rear tire common with those types of bikes?

Stock the bike has a 20 inch rear rim but there's an upgrade for oset bikes that's simular and they use a 14-3.00 trials rim and that's what is on this the overall size is the same but the side wall is a good 1/3rd bigger so there's added flex and grip at low psi.

I've never been stopped by a climb other than me fall off, I got cocky and tryed a near vertical 5 ft climb didn't end well for myself the bike made it though 🤣
 
Got some new brakes on the way i needed 4 pots all round but the cost is getting to much for me to handle so I've cut back a bit and got slx m7120 set rather than the saints.
They have simular spec but are missing the throw adjustment and are £100 cheaper and still use a metal finned pad for better cooling so I'll have them buy the weekend but I csnt fit them till I get a 2m rear hose.

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Could hear clicking past few rides so I've stripped it down and the motor has chucked a magnet and most of them seem lose in the rotor so its met the end if the road for me I've spent load to much got all new brakes charger just under £1000 and this happens I'm fuked off with electric bikes if anyone want the frame etc get in touch.
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Just chuck a 90h qs mid drive fella.You have over heated it asp,what dc and ac amps was you running.
 
Ianhill said:
Could hear clicking past few rides so I've stripped it down and the motor has chucked a magnet and most of them seem lose in the rotor so its met the end if the road for me I've spent load to much got all new brakes charger just under £1000 and this happens I'm fuked off with electric bikes if anyone want the frame etc get in touch.
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Just order a new rotor from kuberg.
 
Kuberg sell the motor complete just under a grand and I got a baby on the way, I'm gonna scrap it all along with 2020 change my hobby to walking up in the night instead had a shit full be honest this is just the icing on the cake my car broke down, then my phone kept restarting and now this at a time money is none existent and I not got work, time to call it a day
 
speedy1984 said:
Just chuck a 90h qs mid drive fella.You have over heated it asp,what dc and ac amps was you running.

Stock they run 13s depending on the controller it can be upto 225amp I've been just over 200amp it's been an animal and that's why it was chooching on its limit.

I'd pull the throttle full from a stop and it would pick my adult frame up and hover the front wheel up to nearly full speed never did it refuse to steep etc dam Shane and I'm gutted bit just dont have the cash flow in tapped out.
 
Ianhill said:
Kuberg sell the motor complete just under a grand and I got a baby on the way, I'm gonna scrap it all along with 2020 change my hobby to walking up in the night instead had a shit full be honest this is just the icing on the cake my car broke down, then my phone kept restarting and now this at a time money is none existent and I not got work, time to call it a day
That's robbery. The cost for a motor an OEM is around $150 and you can get a wide selection for $250.
 
Tommm said:
Ianhill said:
Kuberg sell the motor complete just under a grand and I got a baby on the way, I'm gonna scrap it all along with 2020 change my hobby to walking up in the night instead had a shit full be honest this is just the icing on the cake my car broke down, then my phone kept restarting and now this at a time money is none existent and I not got work, time to call it a day
That's robbery. The cost for a motor an OEM is around $150 and you can get a wide selection for $250.

It's very much criminal I got the bike secondhand but the original £4400 price I'd be pissed.
Issue I got is the frame is very much setup for the motor the change needed to swap to a different motor would need a complete change of motor/battery cradle I may search for a magnet when I got time but outside that it's a Pyle of wank shit that's swallowed money with barely a 1000miles or so covered granted some them miles been ruff never in water or flat out abused Ive got some mechanical sympathy but it has had some nights on the limiter for miles at a time but it's never got so hot I can't touch but maybe internally that was plenty enough to kill it.
 
Damn' that's harsh :(
I was about to come here to post something about how I was happy with the new wheels on my freerider street, and how well my direct solar charging setup was working,
found one of your thread earlier (the battery connector mode that almost caught fire) while searching for infos about a freerider street that caught on fire in the streets in Israel (there's a video. it looks .. bad ;) )..
Arriving here. found this thread, start reading from the start, being super optimistic because your charging connector mod looked super impressive, see that's talking about "THE" hot topic among kuberg owners right now (the wheels) happily thinking I might have infos that could be helpful, and then .. Damn' those frocking magnets :-(
Maybe you could find someone with a dead motor (for another reason) on the facebook group "kuberg owners", who could help you on this..
I hope you'll be able to fix it and keep it running again for a long time !
 
I would have some decent photos to show you but my galaxy s7 decided its time to randomly reboot with a ram issue so im on a clunker now.

The magnets seem to be mostly fine other than 2 that have weaken i can put metal to them and only half the magnet attracts suggesting the rotor had a thermal issue on the side that sits to the sprocket face, this makes sence as the bulk of the motors heatsink is the rear plate and thats more open to air flow than the sprocket side, both bearing are still in good health.

The Israel battery on fire is concerning i opened my battery and its all potted in with just the balance wires poping up oit of the potting for 10cm length and dives back into it this looks like a point that if the rear if the case slips it could chop into them and short the lot into a blazing fire as bms cut would not do shit they go direct to the cell and would need to vaporize to open circuit while not causing a fire.

I did have pictures of it but my phone went same way as the motor, and ive noticed later models seem to have a different battery box top cover shape so not all maybe the same mines a 2017 model.

Ive had a look about and theres many varying motor magnet materal and samaruim cobolt looks to be the winner for enduring heat cycles that the bike goes through but they are also most expensive i will enquire for a price out of interest but even if i made the notor more bullet proof id soon knock the next weekness of the battery down the line and do i have the cssh flow to keep this game up no i dont so i may retire back to the electric scooter game from were i once come ive got loads of stuff ££££ just all in bit and broken just like the world funny enough
 
I bought a used freerider a few weeks ago for £1500. Bike had been stored for a while by previous owner. Rode it up and down and was working ok. After buying it working up and down the road at night , took it home , first ride and it cut out...it was really hard to push back to my vehicle...turns out the controller had blown mosefets , was burnt inside .. I also had issues charging battery , and after several attempts I realised that the battery wasn't holding a charge , and voltmeter told me it was completely flat .

My first post... I was going to post about how to ID hall sensor wires from the kuberg motor as they are not the standard colours ...even the phase wires are non standard colours ...I cant work out how to wire in a 180a Kelly controller that I planned to use on it with a new battery, which I dont have because they cost 2 grand !!
I did take bolts out of the Freerider motor to try and take apart and have a look but it wouldnt come apart easily so i put bolts back in. Yours is the first post I read after being member ... it strikes me that all I had left was a bike and a working motor ( battery and controller dead) , and you have a bike and a broken motor. I considered putting in an LMX161 motor looks like a similar fit but its 60v. I am also wondering if your bike is for sale .

I tell you what pisses me off about Kuberg bikes.... The spares are priced ridiculously high , the wiring diagrams are not available on the net . The controller noises are annoying , there is no ignition key. The battery life is a bit shite. love the frame though .love the weight of it . I haven't really ridden it to decide if its any good or not. Battery prices are near £2k ! thats insane . Oset bikes in the UK are brushed motors but way better for spares , prices, quality. Lmx bikes spares are fairly cheap compared to the Kuberg stuff.
Oset UK should make a full size mx-10 that would be great
 
to sum it up, I have a used bike that needs a new battery and a new controller. The fork seals need attention as well , and the rear tyre needs replacing soon. I bought a kelly controller to fit to the freerider ,and cant work out the wiring. The Kuberg controllers are £900 , and the batteries are £2k .

I have just bought the same controller thats on the lmx161 bike thinking that would work ( KBS721281AE , 180A , 24-72V ) I cant work out the wiring and dont want to buy an expensive battery but need something to make it work .

I also have two more bikes ...a great Oset MX-10 (brushed motor 48v 20ah battery) , and a road registered LMX161 (58V 34aH Battery) .... both of these bikes are really good and the batteries last for hours.
 
Where to are you located fella ?
Ive treated the bike decent as possible, the battery seems to be healthy last ride around a month ago and its been kept at 3.7v cell average now my charger kinda gives an health check with the capacity its put in and it seems close to 95% health and dont drop to yellow from full charge on full discharge power so i assume the voltage drop and sag is still well upto standards it was getting around 15 mile mountain range.

My front forks are like new hardly scratched got a rebuild kit from germany for them and proper fluid to rebuild.

Drop a message if you like at the moment the bikes in pieces ive cleaned it all up to give a service and not all went to plan.
 
If you do want it get in touch ill not give a crazy price im more than willing to see it gone if it makes one out of 2 and someone happy.
 
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