BBS02 conversion Marin Mount Vision Full Suspension

Hi all, Great forum very useful this is my first post.

Here is the start of my first Ebike conversion. Comments, suggestions and encouragement would be welcome. I have mocked up fitting dimensions and it is clear installation will be very tight but should work.

Too late now anyway as I have ordered parts and am now playing a waiting game for delivery by Luna. Three weeks waiting now and I am getting very impatient to start hence this early post.

[b]Bike - Marin Mount Vision XM6 2013 Full Suspension Large Frame[/b]
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[b]Conversion Kit Bafang BBS02 from Luna Cycle [/b]
• BBS02
• 52V 14 AH Shark Case
• Lekkie 42 Tooth Bling Ring
• 500C Mini display
• Clarke Ebike Hydraulic Brake Set 160/180mm
• Thumb Throttle
The new E bike brake conversion kit added a fair bit of cost. Justified because my old rotors and pads were shot and I hope that the inbuilt sensor cut offs will clean tidy and reliable.
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[b]Battery Fit [/b]
So many vendors quoting slightly different dimensions and every mm counts here. In the end I downloaded a template from fasterbikes.eu. With air released from shock I tried the battery right way and wrong way up. Moving rear swing arm though full range. Clear things will be very tight. I may not have enough room to dismount from the base plate... or...Maybe the concave shape of the shark battery case at pointy end will be enough to save me here.

Mounting wrong way round might be easier fit as with shock extended, I seem to have room to unlatch from mounting plate. But I don’t like the idea of fighting gravity or having cables exit at the top, so will try to the right way up.
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Right way round looks better I think but is very tight for removal. Again maybe the concave profile of the battery case at the pointy end will give me the wiggle room I need to remove.
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If I rotate the rear shock 180 degrees to move the valve, I gain precious few mm but will need to Dremel out just a little piece of the pivot arm
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[b]Chain line[/b]
Looks promising I downloaded the template from BfangdirectUSA (very helpful) and cut it for the Lekkie 42 Tooth Bling Ring. If anything I might need to space it out ?
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[b]Mounting plate and rotation stabiliser idea.[/b]
I have an idea in mind to reduce torque rotation around bottom bracket. I plan to add a plate to the underside of the down tube, bolted to existing factory boss screws. Ideally with plate spaced away from top tube so that I can run cables underneath but the priority is to create a frame mounted fixing point to link up Bafang plate, motor and frame with a single bolt. Mocked up below in MS Paint CAD. Fixing M6 bolt would pass right though through mounting plate and Bafang motor lug then into the new fixing point bolted to frame.
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Nice bike and should be a great ride.
You could also mount the battery in front of the downtube just above the motor. That would lower the center of gravity. Just check if the front tire doesn't touch on full compression.
And use the latest custom firmware and settings for the BBS02 so you can set the speed to max on each level and only the amps increasing with each step. Makes it work more natural: https://edrivenet.com/bafang-programming/

Good luck and enjoy building!


This is my build with the triangle battery low down in front of the downtube:

Looks nice, good job. How is that seat?

Kiwi Tired legs said:

Battery Fit
Mounting wrong way round might be easier fit as with shock extended, I seem to have room to unlatch from mounting plate. But I don’t like the idea of fighting gravity or having cables exit at the top, so will try to the right way up.


Mounting plate and rotation stabiliser idea.
I have an idea in mind to reduce torque rotation around bottom bracket. I plan to add a plate to the underside of the down tube, bolted to existing factory boss screws. Ideally with plate spaced away from top tube so that I can run cables underneath but the priority is to create a frame mounted fixing point to link up Bafang plate, motor and frame with a single bolt. Mocked up below in MS Paint CAD. Fixing M6 bolt would pass right though through mounting plate and Bafang motor lug then into the new fixing point bolted to frame.

Click to expand...

Depending how much empty space is in the shark case, you could take a heat gun and mold it to fit around your shock. I saw someone else do that in another build thread. Also, if the battery doesn't fit the 'normal' way, you may need an extension cable as there's <12" of power cable hardwired to the motor.

Another potential option - what if you flip the shock upside down?

As for the additional mounting bracket, I don't think that's strictly necessary. I have ~400 miles on my BBS02 conversion and the motor hasn't budged. And that's with only 1 nut ( 73mm BB can't fit the 2nd jamb nut). Before I had even ordered, I had thoughts of doing a similar reinforcement, but held off. With the motor tucked against the downtube (and a piece of rubber in between to minimize rubbing), it can't really rotate anyway - mine has been rock solid.

Good luck on the build, should be a fun bike.

Report back with your results from the Clarks hydraulic brakes. All the examples I've serviced so far have suffered rotor rub due to unevenly sticky pistons.

@ Chalo - Clark Brakes - Thanks for the tip i will keep the original Avid calipers just in case

@ COAR - Upside down rear shock not a bad idea would certainly gain a few mm

@ ZeroEm - Seat is factory. Dropper is excellent should have fitted it years ago.

@SlowCo - Thanks. I ride mostly mild single trail and a natural peddle action is important to me much for me to learn on programming

Hi Update on the Marin Build
Making good progress after a very long wait for delivery. Only issue so far is that the Clark Hydaulic E Brakes are not triggering motor kill. The bafang cable brakes ones work but not the Clark Hydraulic ones - Very disappointing

Battery Luna 52V fits but only just. I can click it in and out with 5mm to sapre at top and about 10mm clearance from rear shock.



Bafang 750
Wrapped the harness with silicone self fusing tape. Works great at keeping it all tidy. With tails for shift sensor and speed sensor popping out exactly where I wanted them. After this photo the harness was silicone wrapped a second time with cable ties removed.

The end position for main cable is a lot tighter than shown here. Sits right down tight above bottom bracket. I think a chain guide might be a good investment as a dropped chain is the only thing that might cause damage.



Torque Reaction Plate
Formed a heavy duty stainless plate to counter motor rotation and toughen things up. Works really well. Mount is super solid. Bolts into two water bottle mounts under the downtube. With O rings to space off frame and allow room for Brake and Shifter cables to maintain their original routing. And to isolate vibration from frame.



Here torque plate loosely fitted



Pleased with the control cables. The length supplied was just right. Good that the connectors are easy to get at cause these clark brakes are giving me grief.