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- Thread starter D-Man
- Start date
Nice and neat! Xyster could learn a lot from you :wink:
xyster
10 MW
I was just thinking as I looked at this: "hey, that still looks like a bicycle!"
At least my nylon-cloaked device is less likely to get stolen than D-man's groovy-licious wheels.
Good Job!!
Nice ride thanks for posting the pics!!
Lipo is great and Mark spoils me with it!! I have yet another battery coming in for test, its similar to the EV packs but has a removable BMS and is good for 40A continuous.
Hopefully by the spring we will have settled on which packs performs the best, they are all performing very well.
I have the Puma in a 26 Inch wheel coming tomorrow and the new battery and a broken controller to fix.
I am going to be busy
Thanks again for the pictures, when I get some time I will post pictures and data / video of the new Puma and Lipos.
Cheers
Knoxie
Nice ride thanks for posting the pics!!
Lipo is great and Mark spoils me with it!! I have yet another battery coming in for test, its similar to the EV packs but has a removable BMS and is good for 40A continuous.
Hopefully by the spring we will have settled on which packs performs the best, they are all performing very well.
I have the Puma in a 26 Inch wheel coming tomorrow and the new battery and a broken controller to fix.
I am going to be busy
Thanks again for the pictures, when I get some time I will post pictures and data / video of the new Puma and Lipos.
Cheers
Knoxie
Nice bike !
If you can figure out how to get those batteries inside the frame, the bike will handle much better !!.. other than that.. looks like a solid ride !
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Damit Knox... you drive me nuts....
I'm so jealous.. it's insane. :lol:
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If you can figure out how to get those batteries inside the frame, the bike will handle much better !!.. other than that.. looks like a solid ride !
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Damit Knox... you drive me nuts....
I'm so jealous.. it's insane. :lol:
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Hi Buzz
Great you are over here, there are some great people on here now!! its going to be as big as VV for sure and the big guns keep posting and appear to be online. some people like my good friend Steve Head lie dormant in the winter but he will no doubt be contributing as soon as the sap starts to rise in the spring.
Yeah the battery situation is incredible ha ha spoilt brat or what ha ha.
Cheers
Paul :lol:
Great you are over here, there are some great people on here now!! its going to be as big as VV for sure and the big guns keep posting and appear to be online. some people like my good friend Steve Head lie dormant in the winter but he will no doubt be contributing as soon as the sap starts to rise in the spring.
Yeah the battery situation is incredible ha ha spoilt brat or what ha ha.
Cheers
Paul :lol:
BiGH
100 kW
nice conversion!
Knoxie - ur not a spoiled brat spoiled visionary maybe
Knoxie - ur not a spoiled brat
spoiled visionary maybe
xyster
10 MW
fechter said:
Und he did...!
Johnbear
10 kW
What is the brand of the bag, is it a standard duffle bag? Thanks!
knightmb
100 kW
D-Man said:Thanks guys.
Mathurin - 42 volts/20amp controller/21 mph/26 miles at 15mph.
Road test in reviews and testing: "Testing Crystalyte 408 brushless".
ROFL, it's a 2 wheel drive e-bike with 4 "spare" motors in case you burn out the two? Either that or like the young teenagers that get the 'spinner' rims, you have those extra 4 motors spinning on 12 volts to look pimpin'
Actually the 4 in the middle generate power and charge up the batteries. There's a fan belt that winds around all 6 of them. Just kidding of course. I removed the picture and updated it with a new one.
If you look at the picture, you can see the non-used brake lever sticking out on the left side. That was one problem with this conversion that I never fixed. The brake levers and shifters are all one unit, so I removed the left side. The right side got moved to the left side and a small block of wood is wedged in place holding the front sprocket derailer in place. Its now a 7 speed bike. Why not just use the stop screws? (people have asked me). Well, the spring tension is so high that they bend around them when the cable has been removed. The cable and shifter help relieve tension so once their gone, its full force on the stop screws. Bottom line: get a bike with independent trigger shifters or just a 7 speed. Or just purchase trigger shifters to go with the twist throttle and electric safety brakes.
If you look at the picture, you can see the non-used brake lever sticking out on the left side. That was one problem with this conversion that I never fixed. The brake levers and shifters are all one unit, so I removed the left side. The right side got moved to the left side and a small block of wood is wedged in place holding the front sprocket derailer in place. Its now a 7 speed bike. Why not just use the stop screws? (people have asked me). Well, the spring tension is so high that they bend around them when the cable has been removed. The cable and shifter help relieve tension so once their gone, its full force on the stop screws. Bottom line: get a bike with independent trigger shifters or just a 7 speed. Or just purchase trigger shifters to go with the twist throttle and electric safety brakes.
Got some new grips. Looked at the new ones and all the different shapes out there and didn't like em. With the half twist throttle and twist shifter, I'd end up using short type grips anyway. So I really wanted some thick foam grips as my hands sometimes hurt from not enough padding. Anyway, here they are:
Eric G
1 kW
Neat,using the dremel tool to shape the foam grip.I had changed my grips for foam ones as well.I had to trim mine too but used an X-acto knife and nope mine don't look nearly as professional as yours!
Great Job and Cool
Eric
Great Job and Cool
Eric
Thanks. Yeah I figured since they were so cheap I'd cut em up and if I messed up, I could just buy another one down at the bike store, although this was the last one on the shelf. There's a little bit excessive taper on the ends that they put on them. I should have cut that off and probably could have got an extra 1/2 inch in length when I cut the other end. Oh Well. They are comfortable and soft and I like them.
Ok, time for a fork. Waited long enough. Its a 2008 Marz. Mz supercomp. Its got Coil spring/preload adj/rebound adj. Its all steel except for the crown/dropouts which will get torque arm and maybe additional bracing. No rush on this. Plenty of time.
BiGH
100 kW
does the fork support disc brakes?
this looks like an excellent suspension fork for a front motor setup (with some serious torque arms of course.
this looks like an excellent suspension fork for a front motor setup (with some serious torque arms of course.
Ok, still working on the torque arms made from the cheap hand truck. The oval holes take like an hour per hole to drill and file. I'll be tempering everything later. They are only 1/8" thick but there's 2 of them plus 1/8" oval washers so that's .5 inch of steel total. Problem is there's only 1 inch of axel to work with on this front motor.
Also, I'll be making my torque arms so they will have adjustable dropout stops that will prevent them from spreading.
One torque arm will be hooked up to the disk brake mounts and the other will have 2 clamps instead of one. This will eliminate forward movement. Anyway, here's a pic of the new hardware and washers.
Also, I'll be making my torque arms so they will have adjustable dropout stops that will prevent them from spreading.
One torque arm will be hooked up to the disk brake mounts and the other will have 2 clamps instead of one. This will eliminate forward movement.
Anyway, here's a pic of the new hardware and washers.
Drunkskunk
100 GW
Very Nice work on the torque arm design.
If I can make a sugestion, Get rid of those split washers. They need 30-35 pounds of torque on the nut to compress fully, and axle nut realy only should have 15-20 pounds of torque on it. They could actulay cause the wheel to come loose.
A better alternative is Nylock nuts, or Red Locktite
If I can make a sugestion, Get rid of those split washers. They need 30-35 pounds of torque on the nut to compress fully, and axle nut realy only should have 15-20 pounds of torque on it. They could actulay cause the wheel to come loose.
A better alternative is Nylock nuts, or Red Locktite
Thanks, The originals were split type lock washers but were not as wide as these so maybe the thinner one's compressed easier. I thought if the split washer was wider, it would be better because more surface area. I have a torque wrench. Maybe I should check. I did stick the washer in the vice to compress it first as it did feel stiffer.
Edit: checked with torque wrench. About 10 lbs to seat so I'd say these particular ones are ok.
Edit: I may look into the nylon lock nut because the split washer seems to scratch up the torque arm on a trial fit. Not good.
Edit: checked with torque wrench. About 10 lbs to seat so I'd say these particular ones are ok.
Edit: I may look into the nylon lock nut because the split washer seems to scratch up the torque arm on a trial fit. Not good.
Here's some of the hardware I'm going to use. We have: an electrical ground strip cut into pieces for the dropout stops and small dropout steel crowns made from plain sheet steel for the set screws to go up against. The idea is to protect the dropouts.
