Votol EM-100 & EM-150 controllers

Thunder_blade said:
fishblood said:
Thunder_blade said:
fishblood said:
google hc-05 :)
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Great i have some this module, what speed your setup on it 115200?
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u just settled HC-05 to 115200, BT on Android will handle it to 115200 correctly
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Great, after finishing Ua-Ru War :evil: , try it.
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change HC-05 baud rate

https://www.instructables.com/Change-the-Baud-Rate-of-HC-05-Bluetooth-Module-Usi/
 
Dear Friends, many thanks in advance for your support!

I have bough a new Votol EM 200/2 controller, after a quick run, it stopped working and the red light become permanent (I think due to a under-voltage issue with my cell pack),

Can I reset the controller?

Please note that it does not communicate with my PC,

Any ideas?
 

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Quinc said:
Try changing from com1 to com2 com3 com4 etc until it connects.



Has anyone hooked up a wireless remote kill switch to one of these? Thinking something for when the kiddos ride.
Click to expand...
I have a deadman switch in the one I’m building. It uses ESP32. If you look at that video closely I shared the other day you can see me holding the wii remote button with my index finger - that’s the deadman.

You could build one with some ESP’s and a relay on the e lock. There are probably better ways, but it made sense for my use case. If you have experience with that stuff I’m happy to walk you through how I did it. My code hasn’t been debugged so I’m not comfortable sharing it without some giant caveats yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Has anyone ever found documentation or had success coding their own interface to a votol controller? I’d like to get readings from my EM-150’s on something smaller than a laptop. I’m able to with the Daly BMS and want to build some safety features and logging in to my build. I don’t care if it’s arduino, Pi / Linux, I can work with whatever.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Philosoraptor said:
Quinc said:
Try changing from com1 to com2 com3 com4 etc until it connects.



Has anyone hooked up a wireless remote kill switch to one of these? Thinking something for when the kiddos ride.
Click to expand...
I have a deadman switch in the one I’m building. It uses ESP32. If you look at that video closely I shared the other day you can see me holding the wii remote button with my index finger - that’s the deadman.

You could build one with some ESP’s and a relay on the e lock. There are probably better ways, but it made sense for my use case. If you have experience with that stuff I’m happy to walk you through how I did it. My code hasn’t been debugged so I’m not comfortable sharing it without some giant caveats yet.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I violated a documentation rule and referred to something without giving the source (namely the video of my joystick controller with the deadman). I got a DM asking for it, so for reference here is the link:

https://youtube.com/shorts/qIejY1E9TUk?feature=share


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Philosoraptor said:
Has anyone ever found documentation or had success coding their own interface to a votol controller? I’d like to get readings from my EM-150’s on something smaller than a laptop. I’m able to with the Daly BMS and want to build some safety features and logging in to my build. I don’t care if it’s arduino, Pi / Linux, I can work with whatever.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

This bluetooth app might work for you:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=95969&start=2025#p1707592
 
Hey guys,
I'm wondering if there is a function in the "port settings" that could simulate a parking brake without a switch/button. I changed from the original controller that has a special parking mode:

1.when unlocking the e-lock, the controller enters parking mode by default, the motor won't start even with full throttle, speed shows a "P";
2.when hitting the brake (idk if this has to trigger high brake), the "P" turn into speed, the motor can start normally;
3.when the motor stops for a while, the controller automatically get back to the parking mode with "P"

Since I'm not a native English speaker, I have no idea what is the proper words for the function. But if anyone can help, I would be grateful.
 
I bought a QS138 V3 kit that came with a Votol EM-150/2 controller (CAN Bus) and am one of the unlucky ones, as I have yet to successfully connect the PC software to the controller. I can open the COM Port, but each time I press "connect", it seems to time out and give me the dreaded, "Communication abnormal, no response" message. I've tried every COM port you can think of, grounding the CAN adapter to the controller, different orders of powering on and connecting, and still nothing.

This forum seems to be full of haves and have nots as far as connecting to these controllers go, and I'd like to find out why that is. Is it the controllers themselves or more likely the USB/Serial or USB/CAN Bus adapters and drivers? Do I need to sacrifice a goat or something?

Is anyone successfully running a CAN Bus connection at the 115200 baud rate that seems to be recommended and if so, what kind of USB to CAN Adapter are you running?

I'm starting a new thread so I don't bog this one down with troubleshooting and problem solving.
viewtopic.php?f=30&t=116189


communication_abnormal_message.png
 
Quinc said:
Are you on windows? If you search the thread there are different tips and solutions to get past that message.
Click to expand...

Yes I'm using Windows 10. I've searched through this entire thread and so far none of the info has helped me solve the problem. It seems that the USB/Serial side of the USB to CAN adapter is working. I used a logic analyzer to probe the CAN BUS connections of the controller and can see data before attempting to connect with the adapter. As soon as I press the "connect" button in the software, the CAN data stops showing up, almost like the adapter is corrupting the data. I'm still troubleshooting and don't know the exact root cause yet, but I'm working on it.
 
EVGator said:
Quinc said:
Are you on windows? If you search the thread there are different tips and solutions to get past that message.
Click to expand...

Yes I'm using Windows 10. I've searched through this entire thread and so far none of the info has helped me solve the problem. It seems that the USB/Serial side of the USB to CAN adapter is working. I used a logic analyzer to probe the CAN BUS connections of the controller and can see data before attempting to connect with the adapter. As soon as I press the "connect" button in the software, the CAN data stops showing up, almost like the adapter is corrupting the data. I'm still troubleshooting and don't know the exact root cause yet, but I'm working on it.
Click to expand...

With my pc I had to use the USB ports on the back 3.0 vs the usb ports on the front. I also went into device manager and uninstalled reinstalled the driver. Then started at COM1 COM2 COM3 etc until it worked. Now if I could just get it to work on ubunto with wine. :confused:
 
Quinc said:
EVGator said:
Quinc said:
Are you on windows? If you search the thread there are different tips and solutions to get past that message.
Click to expand...

Yes I'm using Windows 10. I've searched through this entire thread and so far none of the info has helped me solve the problem. It seems that the USB/Serial side of the USB to CAN adapter is working. I used a logic analyzer to probe the CAN BUS connections of the controller and can see data before attempting to connect with the adapter. As soon as I press the "connect" button in the software, the CAN data stops showing up, almost like the adapter is corrupting the data. I'm still troubleshooting and don't know the exact root cause yet, but I'm working on it.
Click to expand...

With my pc I had to use the USB ports on the back 3.0 vs the usb ports on the front. I also went into device manager and uninstalled reinstalled the driver. Then started at COM1 COM2 COM3 etc until it worked. Now if I could just get it to work on ubunto with wine. :confused:
Click to expand...



Interesting. Do you remember what settings you used for the device, such as the baud rate, 8 bit, no parity, etc? Which controller did you connect to and were you using serial or CAN Bus? Thanks for any tips you can share!

device_settings.png




I thinking about using a Raspberry Pi with Linux and a CAN adapter..
 
Hello guys
I need help. I replaced the acid battery of 72 volts 20 amps with 72 volts 40 amps lithium polymer battery. Here comes the question about the controller settings.
1. Overvoltage - I realized that it can not be less than 86 volts because it turns off the controller.
2. Undervoltage - What value should I set for a lithium polymer battery?
3. Soft undervoltage - Here, too, I do not know what applies to lithopolymer battery.
and lastly, undervoltage - variation: here sits 1 but somewhere I read that for a lithium battery should be 2, but I'm not sure.
I will be happy if you help a little.
The photo with factory defaults for acid battery 72 volts
thank you in advance

Screenshot 2022-05-20 090441.jpg
 
If it’s a 20s lithium battery then a battery overvolt will be higher than 4.2V

BUT: This setting is not your overvoltage protection of the battery since the controller is not a charger. This means it is a setting to protect the controller from overvoltage - you can set it at 90V or keep as is.

Undervoltage depends on your lithium battery cell and chemistry. Some can go lower than others. I normally cut at between 3V and 3.4V per cell depending on if i need the range, if i’m happy to run the battery to the ground, what type of cell it is. If it’s RC LiPo i’d stay higher on the undervoltage setting given their probability to catch fire :flame:

If you know what the BMS limits are then set the controller limits with some margin to the BMS settings - the BMS is actually never supposed to cut power - it’s for protection during faults so the motor controller limits shall stop it during the normal situations.

If you want some numbers to start from then
90V overvoltage
70V soft undervoltage (3.5 per cell)
66V undervoltage (3.3 per cell)
Variation 1 - i think this is the hysteresis for the undervoltage variation so if your pack dives under 66V during load, controller will cut power but you should be able to use it further if voltage comes back up to 67V when the load is removed. Under 67V you’d need to charge it once protection has occured.
 
This is the data of the battery I bought.
Baterie is no Lifepo4
Baterie ist LiCoxNiyMnzO2

Here are the most important technical data:

Voltage: 72V
Capacity: 40Ah
Energy: 2880Wh
CE certified
LiCoxNiyMnzO2 / battery
18650 lithium ion single cells
Weight: 16kg
BMS battery management system
approx. 800-1000 charging cycles possible
Temperature and overcharge protection
Dimensions: 430 x 185 x 138mm
Max. continuous discharge current: 60A
max. peak discharge current: 180A (1-3 sec.)
Cut-off voltage: 55V
Charging voltage: 84V

s-l1600.jpg
 
F53BB148-E065-45FB-A4FE-E425A7264F72.jpeg

CB6B5557-B27E-49B7-B6A2-F0DD1A9D398E.png

Hoping someone maybe able to answer this for me. I’m setting up my V3 3000w hub motor with a Votol EM150 controller.

In the pics and docs they say to set the 3 main wires up in a Yellow, Green, Blue order and everything else I’m reading and seeing shows Blue, Green, Yellow. I emailed my sales rep and he said to go by his docs not the colors.

So before I turn this baby on I wanted to see what others may say. Even in the word doc. I was sent it says to do Blue to “W” Green to “V” and Yellow to “U”

Thanks!
 
Although I managed to successfully connect a year ago through some voodoo (I don’t remember exactly but it involved uninstalling the prolific drivers every single time), I am now unable to connect my EM150SP controller to the software at all. I’ve wasted a few hours already and I’m at the point where I’d just rather replace my shop laptop since it has a few other annoying driver issues.

Can anyone tell me a model/OS of older laptop that consistently and easily connects to their VOTOL?
 
MDG said:
Hoping someone maybe able to answer this for me. I’m setting up my V3 3000w hub motor with a Votol EM150 controller.

In the pics and docs they say to set the 3 main wires up in a Yellow, Green, Blue order and everything else I’m reading and seeing shows Blue, Green, Yellow. I emailed my sales rep and he said to go by his docs not the colors.

So before I turn this baby on I wanted to see what others may say. Even in the word doc. I was sent it says to do Blue to “W” Green to “V” and Yellow to “U”

Thanks!
Click to expand...

Actually there is a menu in Votol software (page 3) to exchange the phase wire.
 
Jordan325ic said:
Can anyone tell me a model/OS of older laptop that consistently and easily connects to their VOTOL?
Click to expand...

Why don't you try using Bluetooth module HC-05. It compatible with all Windows version.
Connect USB cable from controller to BT module pin :
RX to RX
TX to TX
Ground to Ground
Positive 5V to VCC
Connect BT to your computer and enter password. After pairing successful, run your votol software, choose the right COM port then push connect button in software and it will work.
 
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