Strange problem with kelly/hall

hi guys, first of all, let me introduce myself.
My name is Rick, 34 from the Netherlands.
I have build myself a 3 wheeled "transport bike"


And sadly, that's where the question is about :

Some specs :

Battery's 4x 70ah lead/acid semi traction battery's
Controller : brand new Kelly kbs48121
Hub motor : unknown 1500watt bldc motor

The problem :

As soon as I twist the throttle the wheel starts moving, but not fast and with a lot of noise/shaking. The controller trows a cell code : hall sensor fail..

OK clearly that's where I went checking..
Multimeter : black probe @black hall wire
Red probe @ yellow... Spinning the wheel.. On-off-on-off. Shows between 10/12 volt, switching to 0

Now I did the same for green... Same result..

Blue : strange: Shows around 5 volts and not going 0.

OK, bad hall sensor right?

But now I replaced ALL hall sensors 3 times, and checked the wires 4x but still the same error...

Am I doing something wrong or is it the controlller.

Any idea?

Thats why I like sensorless controllers, no need to deal with hall sensors.

1) Did you visually check that the wire insulation has not been damaged on any of the phase wires and hall wires, from the hub motor axle, to the controller. Try to look into the axle and see, they usually damage there because they rub.

I would do a continuity test of the hall wires, from the halls themselves to the controller. I would also check any connectors for continuity. This means opening up the hub motor, so you would have smelled something if you said you already repaired the hall sensors.

2) Is the bldc motor a geared hub or a direct drive hub or is it a mid drive?

3) https://www.ebikes.ca/learn/troubleshooting.html
Testing for a Defective Hall Sensor
Repairing a defective hall sensor - Your hall sensor may have become loose. A tiny dab of epoxy holds it in well to the lamination slots.

4) Like I said before, in #1, you may have cooked the motor, it smells real bad and the windings get a dull color. I can usually smell it from undoing a few bolts and using a flat head screw driver to crack the cover plate.

5) You may have defective new hall sensors, or you might have purchased and installed the wrong hall sensor.

Crxrick said:

OK clearly that's where I went checking..
Multimeter : black probe @black hall wire
Red probe @ yellow... Spinning the wheel.. On-off-on-off. Shows between 10/12 volt, switching to 0

Now I did the same for green... Same result..

Blue : strange: Shows around 5 volts and not going 0.

Click to expand...

This indicates a few possible problems, of which more than one could be happening at the same time. Without knowing exactly where you are measuring, and under what conditions, it's hard to be more precise.

--5v rather than the 12v the other two get could mean a poor connection to the controller
--or a problem with the controller's internal pullup resistor (there is one on each hall signal line)
--or a miswiring at the controller or the motor, so the signal is connected to the wrong controller line.

--no drop of signal to near zero as magnets pass the hall indicates no connection to the hall sensor itself, if it's known to be good, and wired correctly


If you are testing at the connector between the controller and motor, it may make a difference to the test result whether you measure from the back of the motor-side connector, or the back of the controller-side connector, if the problem is within the connector.

Connector problems include but aren't limited to:
--bad crimp of wire into contact
--broken wire inside insulation near crimp at back of contact
--contact backing out of connector when plugged in (but not visibly happening when not plugged in)
--corrosion of contact mating surfaces

To eliminate the controller and to double check your testing points. Follow this guide...









Regards,
T.C.

Thanks guys, sorry for the late reply, but I was very busy with various things.

Thanks for all the help, going to check everything again, now I at least know where to look