Looking forward to do my Peugeot 307

Shamooooot

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Hello guys

I am new here and I didn't expect such a wonderful forum like this exist..
I have a petrol 2003 Peugeot 307 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peugeot_307 with "TU5 JP4 (NFU) 112 PS (82 kW; 110 hp) engine".
I would like to convert it to a hybrid keeping the original engine setup as is. I've been searching and looking around for weeks and I have a good idea about the options I have, but I thought it would be better if I could catch some of you guys experiences on the best route to take..
I am looking for a range of up to 100km and a 100km/hr top speed.

The best option for me would be the one with the fastest ROI...
 
If you post the specifics of what you need it to do for you, under what specific conditions, and list all the options you've already considered, it would help us help you choose.

Listing your budget, etc would also help us help you pick options within it. Do you have extensive DIY experience / capabilities? (you will need them to do this).

How much space inside the passenger area are you willing to sacrifice for battery, controller, wiring, etc?

Have you checked out the effect of this conversion on the ability to register and title the car in your locality?
 
If you're keeping the stinking gas engine, what's the point of converting it? You just want a heavier car that wasn't engineered to be that heavy?
 
Thanks for the replies guys..

First of all let me say the exact reason why I want to keep the gasoline part is because I won't be able to register a fully converted car.

- The car has a manual transmission, and I want to use a switch to start or kill the electric motor, while other parts of the car keep running using the 12v battery while engine is off (the power steering for example).
- I will use it to drive around the city, I usually have no additional weight or passengers with me.
- I don't have a budget but as I said I am looking into second hand parts for the most part to keep the budget as low as possible.
- I would say I have a pretty good DIY skills and access to tools, parts, machining etc.
- I would like to keep the passenger area unused except for minor things, and use the trunk of the car instead in which I can sacrifice the spare wheel. I would even drop to 60km as a maximum range to get there https://gomotors.net/photos/0b/04/peugeot-307-16-xline_7b98c.jpg?i.

- The options I was thinking of are the two below:
1. Installing an electric induction motor on a rear differential axle either mounting the motor under the car (probable won't fit), or finding a way to mount it inside the trunk and drive the shaft to the axle.
2. This option I am not sure about as I didn't see it done before even though it is budget friendly, which is using the Prius MG1 and MG2 motors together as I have read they are very capable motors. The problem is to find a way to mount them. Either again using a diff axle or finding a way to link these motors with the manual gearbox (which will require some heavy adjustments).

* With both options I am willing to use a Prius inverter (also to make use of the DC/DC converter), second hand battery modules, and second hand HV battery charger of some EV.
 
Some thoughts, just to point out things you may not have considered (it's common):


Shamooooot said:
First of all let me say the exact reason why I want to keep the gasoline part is because I won't be able to register a fully converted car.
Can you register (or afford to register) a DIY-converted car? Some localities have pretty extreme requirements for proving it meets various standards, including paying large sums of money to special engineering test firms to verify this.


- I would like to keep the passenger area unused except for minor things, and use the trunk of the car instead in which I can sacrifice the spare wheel.
Can the rear suspension take the weight of the battery, controller, motor, etc that would be placed on it in the trunk, and still perform as you need it to?

I would even drop to 60km as a maximum range to get there
Depending on the speed you go, the number of stops and starts, the amount of acceleration you require (how fast you need to reach your cruising speed), the terrain, road conditions, vehicle + everything else weight, wind conditions, vehicle aerodynamics, etc., it could take 100-300wh/mile (or more) (63-187wh/km) to drive around under electric-only power.

Assuming a 187wh/km situation, that's a minimum of 60km x 187wh/km = 11,220kwh of battery capacity. That's assuming you always use the battery from completely empty to completely full, and it never ages losing capacity, etc. Safer to add at least 20-25% more, minimum, for 14,025kwh, which means you aren't running the battery as hard and it will last longer and give you taht range for a longer time.

I have a 2kwh battery made of EV-grade EIG cells, without any casing around it, that is approaching 40lbs, and the size of a small stack of hardcover books. A 14kwh pack of these, with no protective casing, etc., or method to secure them in place, would then weigh about 14 / 2 = 7 times that, or 280lbs, or 127kg (about two full grown adults), and be 7 times that volume. A casing to secure and protect it would probably add at least 20lbs, probably more, plus some volume. (possibly more if there are significant regulations requiring more protection for it to prevent crash fires).




Either of the rear-end motor drive systems you're considering would probably work; keep in mind they will add all their weight to the rear suspension as well.

Any front-drive system would move the weight up there, but because the engine is there, too, may complicate the design and installation.

Note that in some places, any modification of the body of the car (like cutting holes to pass drivetrain components thru) may either prevent registration or require some form of engineering recertification of the car to do so.


These kinds of regulations kinda suck for DIYers, but they've brought some projects around the world I've seen to a halt, or delayed them for years. :(
 
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