72v Controller suggestion

EZgo

1 W
Joined
Sep 10, 2012
Messages
62
Location
Carlisle, PA
I need some controller help. I need to replace my Lyen Edition 12 x 4110 MOSFET extreme moder controller.

I run a 72V 12ah battery, A 9c DD hub motor controlled by a Cycle Analyst V3. The battery was new last year everything else is from 2015. Controllers don't seem to be as easy to find as I remember than to be 5 or 6 years ago.
New or used would be ok.

Thanks,
 
Some info we'll need to provide a useful recommendation:

What do you want it to do for you?

What features do you need it to have?

What current limit does it need to have to prevent damaging your battery under high loads, (meaning what is the maximum current your battery will safely support continously)?

How much power do you need the system to provide you continously? (and peak)

What is the maximum size that will fit on the bike where you need it to go?

What is your budget?
 
Street use only but it's my regular transportation. That said I have a bad leg & I use a lot of motor support. ie if I lost power more than a mile from home I'd be waiting for a ride.

None to speak of. I do not have regen, electric brakes, PAS, or cruise control. I simply need (or would like) for it to plug into my CA V3 & into my DD 9c rear hub motor. A 9pin motor connection would be awesome.

My battery will handle 50amp continuously. My Lynn controller will handle 100amps. The most amps I've ever registered was 40 something. I can only keep up (pedaling) to the motor until about 25mph but flat out w/no head wind I can easily maintain 35mph (I rarely do that) & that's 38 to 42amps. My average commuting speed is around 22mph.

I sent my Lyen controller back to Lyen so I can't measure it but all of the old controllers I have sitting around fit with room to spare. But it could handle something as big as 4 "W x 2.25"H x 7" L. It goes between my rack & fender.

I could handle $400.

Edward Lyen is repairing this for me but I'm exploring other sources in case this would go down in mid season. (I'm in PA) I have been in touch with Grin & they are hoping to get a 72V into their inventory sometime soon but no eta on that.

The insulation on both the phase wires & the hall sensor wires started to break down on my 10x6 wound 9c hub motor. Since I'm a ebikekit.com dealer I decided to just buy a new wheel & repair my old one at my leisure. What I didn't know was that between 2015 & now they went from a 10x6 winding to a 6x10. By the time I figured out that the reason my new wheel was only spinning at 26mph instead of 50mph I had screwed up my controller. I will not be happy with this new motor so repairing my old wheel has move up my to-do list by a lot. I would kinda like to have a spare controller to go with my spare wheel.

My leg problem has kept me out of the garage & away from ebikes for 5yrs. I have forgotten what little I thought I knew & am now staring starting to re-educate myself.
 
EZgo said:
Street use only but it's my regular transportation. That said I have a bad leg & I use a lot of motor support. ie if I lost power more than a mile from home I'd be waiting for a ride.
So, like me, you are looking for ultra-reliable (generally meaning something from a known "brand" with a good reputation for long-term reliability)? And not something that is "riding the edge" of it's components, or that has to be (or has been) modified to work at the voltage and power range you need it for?

Grinfineons come to mind first, out of the ones I've used.

I have also had good luck (but it is a one-unit sample size) with a few different generics from various sources, but those types are unpredictable in build quality and reliability; one of them I had to replace the main caps in fairly quickly, but after that it's been reliable on the trike (also had to reconnectorize it because nothing matched anything when i got it). Another problem with generics is that you may not get the same controller twice from the same place, so you can't be guaranteed of getting the same results anyone else did from the same seller even if it's from the same product page link. :(


The Phaserunner is probably also in the categories you've specified (except for the motor connector; you'd have to get or make an adapter cable, unless Grin now offers it with your motor's connector). But the PR has to be setup and tuned for your specific motor and usage, using a computer and a USB-serial cable and Grin's program, before you can use it, because of the versatility of features it has. So it's not plug-and-play, and that's been frustrating for some users.

None to speak of. I do not have regen, electric brakes, PAS, or cruise control. I simply need (or would like) for it to plug into my CA V3 & into my DD 9c rear hub motor. A 9pin motor connection would be awesome.
Which 9-pin motor connection? (presumably a single-connector solution) And which wiring / pin order, and what functionality for the 9th pin? (presumably 3 phase and 5 hall for the other 8)

Asking because some controllers use the 9th wire for speedometer, some use it for thermometer, and there is more than one 9-pin connector out there (the most common is the Julet / Higo common on Bafang type motors, etc). The wiring order makes a difference for any controller that does not have auto-learn functionality, because if the wiring doesn't match between your motor and that controller, you'd have to open up either motor or controller and swap phase and hall wires around to match the other device. :(


Which CA connector do you have? There are at least two types they have used. (6pin JST-SM and "WP8" I think Grin calls it) I'd guess it's the JST as that's what I have so far always seen on the Lyen controllers.



My battery will handle 50amp continuously. My Lynn controller will handle 100amps. The most amps I've ever registered was 40 something. I can only keep up (pedaling) to the motor until about 25mph but flat out w/no head wind I can easily maintain 35mph (I rarely do that) & that's 38 to 42amps. My average commuting speed is around 22mph.
If the most current you've ever seen on the CA was <50A, (closer to 40? or closer to 50?) then you can probably use a "40A" 12fet controller, like the Grinfineons. (which have generally been reliable (I've had three, a 6fet and three 12fets and the only one with a problem was a factory-wrong wiring problem quickly found at the start of use), and also have the CA connector preinstalled, and can probably be custom ordered directly from Grin with any of the motor connectors they sell installed on it). THe only catch is that they've had trouble getting / keeping them in stock, from what I recall. :(

But it could handle something as big as 4 "W x 2.25"H x 7" L. It goes between my rack & fender.
Sounds like at least a 6FET size, possibly a 12FET (some 12FETs are longer than that, but about the same H & W).

Edward Lyen is repairing this for me but I'm exploring other sources in case this would go down in mid season. (I'm in PA) I have been in touch with Grin & they are hoping to get a 72V into their inventory sometime soon but no eta on that.

What I didn't know was that between 2015 & now they went from a 10x6 winding to a 6x10. By the time I figured out that the reason my new wheel was only spinning at 26mph instead of 50mph I had screwed up my controller.
:( I am not certain, but I think one of the old 9C stators I have here was a 10x6 winding. If I find it, and it's actually marked with this, you could have it for the cost of shipping from Phoenix, AZ (keeping in mind you'd need to install the motor cable of your choice on it and swap it into your rotor/covers/wheel as it's just a stator...and I don't know the status of the halls so they might need replacing, too, but probably not).


I will not be happy with this new motor so repairing my old wheel has move up my to-do list by a lot.
If you don't have new motor wiring already, Grin carries replacment motor cables (some preconnectorized, some as just cable by the meter).
 
I have quite a few motor extension wires so I decided to sacrifice one of them. Their the same gauge as what was in it originally. I'd prefer something a tad heavier but it was easy to get it through the axel. And my controller sits directly above the wheel so there's less than 2' of cable. I'll have it ready to test as soon as I find out if I can solder the blk thermistor wire directly onto the hall sensor board along with black hall wire?

I'll make a new post with that question since it's kind of a new subject.
 
EZgo said:
I'll have it ready to test as soon as I find out if I can solder the blk thermistor wire directly onto the hall sensor board along with black hall wire?
I don't see why not. Most of the time they're the same wire within the motor cable anyway.
 
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