Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

moonshine said:
striker54 said:
moonshine said:
I've been looking around and have not been able to find a specific setting enabling balancing on the BMS. I have my bms connected and I set it to be enabled. I also see the cell voltages but the BMS board isn't flashing or seem to be balancing.

Anyone have any input on what I'm missing? Is there a specific setting? The BMS status keeps saying "no" next to "bat balancing"

In the BMS menu you have to configure the type of cells you have (lipo, life, lion) and you also have a custom mode where you can set the max cell voltage, the balance voltage, minimum voltage, etc). What have you selected???


I chose "custom" I believe i put in max cell voltage as 4.10, min as 3.10, critical as 2.5, balancing as 4.10. I'm running samsung 25R cells. Should i be putting in max as 4.2, min 3.1, and critical 2.5? I wanted to increase longevity of cells so i thought charging them to 4.10 down to 3.10 was a good range. That means i set my charge voltage to 82V, high voltage cutoff to 84V with 1V softlimit. I'm not sure if that's the correct way. What have people been doing for 18650 cells?


you'll want to put balancing below max cell voltage. if max is 4.1 and balance is 4.1 it probably wont kick in.

mine is max cell voltage 4.12 balance voltage at 4.06

this way at you approach the top the balancing kicks in
 
striker54 said:
OK, there is another menu (that i don't remember the name)in the BMS menu where you need to set the number of cells in each plug board

Yep, i remember that one. I just configured everything to channel A (using 5 boards but burned the 2nd board...haha). I set each board for 4 cells (20s8p). i can see them just fine, i just want to make sure they actually balance because i seem to be charging w/o balancing. One time the charger stop at 79V or so (82V cutoff) and i couldn't figure out why until i checked the bms and saw one cell was 4.26 and another was 3.65. I flipped my shit for a few seconds. But after a minute or two...and checking the bms connections the cells all went back down to normal ranges around 4V. That's when i realized that none of the cells were actually being balanced but rather just bulk charged.
 
wingsuit said:
you'll want to put balancing below max cell voltage. if max is 4.1 and balance is 4.1 it probably wont kick in.

Ok, well i'll set my max cell voltage to 4.20, and balance to 4.10. I guess it doesnt matter what the max cell voltage is since i will set the max battery charge voltage at 82V. Right?
 
skWarDog said:
Allex said:
Dunno about rc7c, b is what I used and what doc uses now.
That's actually what I wrote to the SD Drive, and now the drive letter don't show up in windows explorer (I understand this is normal), so saves me a trip to Staples. I'll give 'b' a try...... It did write successfully, thanks for posting the translation @ 40 pages back, Allex! I'm sure I'm not the only one in this thread who appreciates all the really accurate knowledge you contributed to this thread and forum!
Damn-it!!! So today I tried to flash rc7b. D/L good, using the utility successfully wrote it to a PNY SDHC 4GB memory card. Put the card in the display, powered system>press "left" update>press "left" update all....
SD OK 1%
CRC is good 10%
LCD Deleted 15%
LCD Updated 20%
Write to Controller 1-100%
Update Successfull! Remove SD Card. Restart Controller. 100%

Upon restart, all I get is a blank screen????
HELP ME PO-LEASE!!!!!

Edit: Prefomed Hardware Test from SDHC- All buttons work and current to throttle(0799), brake(0763) and the other thing(0163).
There was also another "Display Update" and I saved those settings as prompted without changing.

Reflashed rc7b again.... same result!?? Display is backlit but blank, throttle does not respond either
 
skWarDog said:
skWarDog said:
Allex said:
Dunno about rc7c, b is what I used and what doc uses now.
That's actually what I wrote to the SD Drive, and now the drive letter don't show up in windows explorer (I understand this is normal), so saves me a trip to Staples. I'll give 'b' a try...... It did write successfully, thanks for posting the translation @ 40 pages back, Allex! I'm sure I'm not the only one in this thread who appreciates all the really accurate knowledge you contributed to this thread and forum!
Damn-it!!! So today I tried to flash rc7b. D/L good, using the utility successfully wrote it to a PNY SDHC 4GB memory card. Put the card in the display, powered system>press "left" update>press "left" update all....
SD OK 1%
CRC is good 10%
LCD Deleted 15%
LCD Updated 20%
Write to Controller 1-100%
Update Successfull! Remove SD Card. Restart Controller. 100%

Upon restart, all I get is a blank screen????
HELP ME PO-LEASE!!!!!

Edit: Prefomed Hardware Test from SDHC- All buttons work and current to throttle(0799), brake(0763) and the other thing(0163).
There was also another "Display Update" and I saved those settings as prompted without changing.

Reflashed rc7b again.... same result!?? Display is backlit but blank, throttle does not respond either

This is exactly why I'm a bit hesitant to reflash my controller. Especially with the nice weather just starting.
 
Offroader said:
skWarDog said:
Damn-it!!! So today I tried to flash rc7b. D/L good, using the utility successfully wrote it to a PNY SDHC 4GB memory card. Put the card in the display, powered system>press "left" update>press "left" update all....
Upon restart, all I get is a blank screen????
HELP ME PO-LEASE!!!!!

Edit: Prefomed Hardware Test from SDHC- All buttons work and current to throttle(0799), brake(0763) and the other thing(0163).
There was also another "Display Update" and I saved those settings as prompted without changing.

Reflashed rc7b again.... same result!?? Display is backlit but blank, throttle does not respond either

This is exactly why I'm a bit hesitant to reflash my controller. Especially with the nice weather just starting.
OK, I'm fixed! I ended up flashing rc9e (upgrade for me from 9b), but was not able to flash rc7b...

My observations:
1) I think if you have a newer controller, Adaptto may have reconfigured something (processor?) so you can't flash back that far. Just a wild guess?!
2) I also tried the Doc B LS Tune Trick.... FAIL!
Theory- I have a batt with an internal BMS witch cuts it at 50amps, witch my "Boost" profile is set at 49.8amps. I tried setting the LS current at 52amps, that caused shutdown. I turned LS current down to 49.8amps, no problems, but no gain either. So, I just turned it off.

So basically, I'm back to where I was yesterday. Minus $20 for a couple SDHC memory cards...... That's all for now
 
ohzee said:
Where are people getting rc9f ?


From adaptto directly. When i received mine back from repair it had rc9f

Doc
 
Hey Doc,

Do you have a part number for those 1000uF 18 milliohm ESR caps you installed?
 
striker54 said:
Offroader said:
What is this LS tweak, I tried looking back in the thread but couldn't find much information about it.
Second picture: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=61183&start=1675#p1050630
You need to set a current equal or superior to the batt amps set in the profile boost and adjust the LS start speed where it kicks in.

This screen is actually a bit different on the later firmware versions, you don't specify a speed at which LS starts, but where it ends. I extended the LS end to 75km/h and to 80a and it definitely had the desired effect. My earlier point regarding phase amps stands however, at low speed the phase amps are still limited to your power profile setting (in my case as high as it will go in boost with the locked firmware) however battery amps will increase. That means at low speed where you're not reaching battery amp limit it will make no difference.

6.7kw maximum registered on this mornings journey in, feels good.
 
I played around a little with the LS setting, I set it to 83amps, my battery amps are 76. I set the LS start at 00 MPH.

What I noticed is that the front of the bike lifts up higher at first, but a second later the bike bogs down or loses power. I guess this is the phase amp limit hitting. Because of this it wasn't really worth messing around with it anymore.
 
Brake said:
Hey Doc,

Do you have a part number for those 1000uF 18 milliohm ESR caps you installed?

These was from another Lyen controller.. Sorry i dont have any part number. However use the digikey parametric search tool, you will find some even better!

DOc
 
skWarDog,
There is different firmware for the screen and the controller. Your display firmware may not be compatible with the older controller firmware that you installed. I haven't tried updating the display separately, so I can't help there. Try going back to the rc9 if nothing else.
 
Thanks Doc, I ordered some and we will see. Guess I have to get an ESR meter now. [SMILING FACE WITH OPEN MOUTH]
 
Does anybody know which thermistor is in the Crystalyte 5403 by stock and if it's supported by Adaptto?
Usually Crystalyte is using NTC 10k but it seems to be another one… Thanks
 
burner77 said:
Does anybody know which thermistor is in the Crystalyte 5403 by stock and if it's supported by Adaptto?
Usually Crystalyte is using NTC 10k but it seems to be another one… Thanks

Same question here for the crystalyte hs4080, tried every possible option, I even switched the sensorcable.

Have you tried that burner77?
 
best just cut it out and solder in the adaptto one that comes with the controller. completely painless op. just stick it in there with rtv gasket silicone...
 
skWarDog said:
skWarDog said:
Allex said:
Dunno about rc7c, b is what I used and what doc uses now.
That's actually what I wrote to the SD Drive, and now the drive letter don't show up in windows explorer (I understand this is normal), so saves me a trip to Staples. I'll give 'b' a try...... It did write successfully, thanks for posting the translation @ 40 pages back, Allex! I'm sure I'm not the only one in this thread who appreciates all the really accurate knowledge you contributed to this thread and forum!
Damn-it!!! So today I tried to flash rc7b. D/L good, using the utility successfully wrote it to a PNY SDHC 4GB memory card. Put the card in the display, powered system>press "left" update>press "left" update all....
SD OK 1%
CRC is good 10%
LCD Deleted 15%
LCD Updated 20%
Write to Controller 1-100%
Update Successfull! Remove SD Card. Restart Controller. 100%

Upon restart, all I get is a blank screen????
HELP ME PO-LEASE!!!!!

Edit: Prefomed Hardware Test from SDHC- All buttons work and current to throttle(0799), brake(0763) and the other thing(0163).
There was also another "Display Update" and I saved those settings as prompted without changing.

Reflashed rc7b again.... same result!?? Display is backlit but blank, throttle does not respond either


I had to hit back button to wake it up.
 
yep, one of my displays does that from time to time too.the rc7c mine-e one.seems to be when iv let it sit for a while without use..have to hit any key and it wakes up again.

it is often asleep when i turn it on with the red wire switch too. its funny. it boots and displays the firmware version, then goes to sleep again, and i have to wake it up.
 
Could anyone recommend their settings to try who has a mxus 3000 v1 with a max e locked ?

Running 20s9p 25r's so I feel I should be able to push it well.

I feel I should be able to get more from the motor , but so far have been hesitant to push the settings to far.

I have seen where some people listed their cromotor settings just not any for the mxus tho I very well may have missed some. Thanks in advance.
 
Allex said:
I had to hit back button to wake it up.
Oh, believe me, I hit every button at least 10 times to try and wake it up! And like I said, I tried the hardware tests (pass) and saving the LCD settings a function on the SD memory card.....
It did cross my mind to try what Brake suggested:
Brake said:
skWarDog,
There is different firmware for the screen and the controller. Your display firmware may not be compatible with the older controller firmware that you installed. I haven't tried updating the display separately, so I can't help there. Try going back to the rc9 if nothing else.
But I was happy to have SuMo lit-up again and running firmware rc9e, cus it was 80 degrees and sunshiney here yesterday and I didn't want to be in that damp cold basement room with a....... Well, daylight was burnin, my batt pack was fully charged.... It was time to tox a fatty, hop on SuMo, dance down the D&R Canal towpath right into dowtown Trenton and burn down some of those hucks I been scoping out:
Planet of Terrium 2.jpg
Planet of Terrium.jpg
WW2 Memorial Hucks.jpg
WW2 Memorial Huck.jpg
You see, I'm still invisable to the Po-Po because I'm the only person I know in my area who has a weapon like this. As a matter of fact, yesterday I was hucking-up General George's (his pic is on the dolla bill) old barracks, which is now a NJ State Pork Pen and the Trooper's going in and out were giving me the "that's cool" wave! So, right now, the only one who can ruin e-riding in my area is me, that's why I try to keep a low-pro and if anyone asks me about the extra's on my bike, I tell them things like, cable TV, GPS trail mapping equipment for Google Earth, Russian Republic satellite receiver, pedal stroke amplifier, etc..... amazing how gullible people are!!!
I'm sure once all the blockheads get ahold of this tech, it's all over, now is my time to fly>>>>>>>>>>>>
 
Boestin said:
burner77 said:
Does anybody know which thermistor is in the Crystalyte 5403 by stock and if it's supported by Adaptto?
Usually Crystalyte is using NTC 10k but it seems to be another one… Thanks

Same question here for the crystalyte hs4080, tried every possible option, I even switched the sensorcable.

Have you tried that burner77?
There are some Crystalytes with 1 wire and some with 2 wire thermistor. The 4065 had two and it worked for me, using 10k NTC setting. But I will plant the Adaptto one to the stator
 
ridethelightning said:
one end to the black gnd wire, other end is to the adaptto thermistor pin in halls plug :wink:


Nope, not working here. I think the thermistor is broken inside the hub.
Hey, maybe that's why Adaptto gives us a thermistor..
 
all i want is more torque. I spend all kind of time thinking about how to tweak my mini-e to get better off the line speed.

my top speed still only hits 55kph on flats and 70kph on downhills but how fast it gets there seems a shame. never really seems to pickup until after 15kph.

need to spend more time tweaking settings.


has anyone with a mini managed to get it to feel snappy off the line?
 
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