crossbreak
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níce motor mount! is`it an RV120?
crossbreak said:níce motor mount! is`it an RV120?
Gregory said:It looks amazing. You've put in some serious time and effort.
Love the idea of the cable steering, hope it works well at speed.
Stielz said:Some awesome work you've done there!
Regarding the efficiency, I have experience using Adaptto with RC outrunner motor. My findings were that manual tuning of the adaptto is required, and that tuning under no load gives very poor results when the motor is under load. You'll need to spend lots of time adjusting settings then trying it out.
What sort of efficiency are you getting in Wh/km?
And are you having problems with the motor overheating?
ridethelightning said:i have a cargo bike with 220 lg mg1 cells, 22s10p, mine-e ,5404 /20"wheel
riding 6 months ,so far very good. its amazing how much weight you can get up hills on these things at 50kph.
im topping out at 6kw+ i think.
Wheazel said:ridethelightning said:i have a cargo bike with 220 lg mg1 cells, 22s10p, mine-e ,5404 /20"wheel
riding 6 months ,so far very good. its amazing how much weight you can get up hills on these things at 50kph.
im topping out at 6kw+ i think.
Sounds great! How is the startup from zero with cargo and that hub?
Stielz said:Not too many setting to adjust, really just the timing correction angle and ind timing.I just start with an auto tune then manual tuning but testing the settings in on road tests for each adjustment.it is a time consuming process. I found that I needed a significant amount of increase in angle correction.
On another note, is there much leakage magnetic field from the motor can? Looking at your photos it looks like a fairly small gap between the motor can and the aluminium mounting hardware. Leakage magnetic field can induce current in the aluminium mount which could be effecting your efficiency
Wheazel said:The bike is almost done. Whats missing is only the wall infront of the electronics compartment. Still debating on suitable alternatives.
Bluefang said:More likely the heat is due to been a heavy bike and a tiny little motor mass. You have some awesome skills with metal work but i have not noticed if you have built a proper fan onto the end of the motor? No matter what its sold for its still a RC style motor that will need a TON of cooling air flow thru it. What sort of RPM is the motor running it? Is it the high KV motor of the low KV one? Also is the alloy plate next to the can of the motor getting warm if so its too close and will affect hte motor heat too.
tahustvedt said:It turned out great.
Wheazel said:The bike is almost done. Whats missing is only the wall infront of the electronics compartment. Still debating on suitable alternatives.
I suggest using plexiglass. You can leave it clear or paint the inside surface which. Biltema has 4mm sheets.
Wheazel said:Stielz said:Not too many setting to adjust, really just the timing correction angle and ind timing.I just start with an auto tune then manual tuning but testing the settings in on road tests for each adjustment.it is a time consuming process. I found that I needed a significant amount of increase in angle correction.
On another note, is there much leakage magnetic field from the motor can? Looking at your photos it looks like a fairly small gap between the motor can and the aluminium mounting hardware. Leakage magnetic field can induce current in the aluminium mount which could be effecting your efficiency
This is true, the gap to my aluminium mount is small, only like 5mm or so. The bottom plate of the mount is also hollowed to allow the motor to sit even lower.
I was under the impression that nonmagnetic material didnt induce currents in the same way as steel would.
I even scrapped a motormount and a raincover made from steel for that reason. the motor attracts magnetic objects outside the can quite strong, if thats a good indication for leakage.