Qulbix build Adaptto 10 kW FasterBikes

burner77

100 W
Joined
Mar 4, 2014
Messages
135
Location
Austria
Since I was reading many of your build threads which were very helpful for me, I finally decided to post some of my builds.
Having 6 bikes, these was my most demanding project, since I was spending more time building than driving.
I have been a Qulbix dealer until Qulbix decided to not list any dealer on their website without comment and giving more discount to end customer than dealer.
So all began with the 165 frame which I bought, but only shorter after the 140 frame was released and the mounted parts were removed to the new frame without driving the old one.
I have decided to go for the rarely black chassis, since I had some white bikes and it was impossible to have a clean it and they always had a look of dirt and oil and …
Since I'm a passionate biker it should have gears to pedal with and my first test motor was the Crystalyte 4065 using the Adaptto Max-E
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But as you can immagine, the Adaptto Controller has plenty of power and the beginning comfort zone was expanded to fun zone and only shortly after the hall sensor wiring was melted, the temperature was set to 130°. But since I'm have many Crystalyte motors around here, I was going for the 5403 laced in a moto rim. Unfortunately The Crown wasn't running with the Adaptto. This ended in a speed machine and as you know from Allex videos 110 km/h is easy. I have also changed the fork from a Marzocchi 888 double to a 180 mm Rock Shox Totem, since I didn't like the steering angle on the technical tracks I have around here.
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I live in a area with many mountains and the 5403 was nice in the flat, but around here more torque make more sense and I have ordered some of the QS205 50 V3 Export and decided to go for the 390rpm/5,5T/8,1kV. The wider stator is good for torque, but bad for gears and the axle made for 150 mm allouded me to use 1 gear only (or 3). Unfortunately pedalling isn't an option anymore. But the torque was insane and putted a big smile on my face. A truly wheely machine and going 30-40 km/h the front comes easily up and I went mostly on one wheel. I love wheelis.
Because of the different chain line of the motor the chain is touching the dropout and I have to mount a smaller chainwheel on the front.
The build isn't final and the motor wires have to be shortened. It was a fast option, because Crystalyte motors have a much shoter motor wiring and the prolungation is still near the dropout. I liked more the driving, than building in the past.
The bike goeas around 90 km/h with 20S and OVS 7, but still 85 km/h with OVS 3. The tire is a Shinko 241 19" 2.75 and a HALO SAS 26" rim on the front
 
I have replaced the clamps of the display with metal ones, the plastic didn't look very stable. A left thumb throttle is used for regen braking and I'm using a Domino throttle which works perfect with the Adaptto software and set the throttle progression signal to 1. The gear changer is still on the handlebar and the deraileur works as chain tensioner.
The original Mini-XLR charge hole was widened for a Neutrix 4pin connector, an aextra hole was made for the display wire.
The USB charger is sealed with a plastic cap
Brakes are from BFO or BrakeForceOne with 203 mm disc and the wires glow in the dark
+ Integrated hydraulic booster
+ Maintenance-free, closed system without break fluid reservoir
+ No more grinding and squeaking brake discs – Adjustment of clearance at the dial on the thumb brake lever
+ Made in Germany

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Lets go to the inside of the frame:
The bolts of the controller holder are not very nice and could be a issue for batterys. But i have decided to leave them in and used a plywood with holes for the and a good protection with a hard foam
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It is plenty of space on the inside and I was going for 2x 10S 12P Panasonic 2.9 Ah for a total of 34,8 Ah
charge 40A, discharge 120A. In total 240 cells using the Adaptto BMS
The battery was made by a German guy and he also made the wiring for the Adaptto. The batterys have a Sub-D connector to the BMS and the BMS-board was placed in front of the frame crewed on a plywood and mounted on the fixation of the battery
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Unfortunately the wiring or the BMS is not 100% correct or even some cells. On channel 19 during charge is rising about 0.1V or more compared to other cells and the same is during driving. At full throttle the voltage is dropping allot more than other cells. I have sendet the battery to test it to the German guy, but he said everything is fine and it was tested for 2 days on charge and discharge and the voltage is fine.
I have tried to switch the connectors on the BMS board, but with no difference. Martin of the forum told me he had the same problem, but since he removed the recommended connector of the signal it was fine. Trying the same it made no difference.
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The controller is placed on the inside and I had no problems with heat. Using 2 ABB fuses, which are also used to turn the system off
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The snow came back and before living the monster in the garage I took some pictures of the more final build
I have still issues with the battery and I can't find any solution.
Charging the 20S package to 80V and using 120A the voltage drop is enourmous on the Adaptto display. It goes down to 60V. The battery is rated 120A continous.
Is such a voltage drop possible? The battery maker says not.
I have to measure it with a multimeter

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thanks for posting.

i have a question re. circut breakers you used:
what current rating have you used there?

also, do they have a surge arrest built into them to stop the sudden inrush of power to controller when they are turned on(like precharge resistor)

or do they simply turn on/off without a spark to avoid damaging bullet connectors that some people use?

i was interested in using them but im not sure of the function.

what type of panasonics have you got?

nice bike!
 
ridethelightning said:
thanks for posting.

i have a question re. circut breakers you used:
what current rating have you used there?

also, do they have a surge arrest built into them to stop the sudden inrush of power to controller when they are turned on(like precharge resistor)

or do they simply turn on/off without a spark to avoid damaging bullet connectors that some people use?

i was interested in using them but im not sure of the function.

what type of panasonics have you got?

nice bike!

I have used this ones:
http://www.abb.com/product/seitp329/49a79353b0194401c12572ab00257544.aspx?tabKey=2&gid=ABB2CDS251001R0634&cid=9AAC100489
they have no precharge resistor and there is a spark when turned on. But it is internally and they are made for it.
Connect all the wires and then turn the circuit breaker on.
I'm using the Panasonic 2900
 
I dig those brake lines. Pretty cool.

Have you laced up the QS 205 to the 19x1.6 wheel yet? If so, can you share your spoke specs?
 
Mammalian04 said:
I dig those brake lines. Pretty cool.

Have you laced up the QS 205 to the 19x1.6 wheel yet? If so, can you share your spoke specs?
I have used SAPIM Leader 2,6 mm/12G spokes 126,5 mm
 
I wanted to add a parts list and their cost in Europe incl. VAT:
2300€ battery 72V 35 Ah and charger, wiring for Adaptto
1300€ for Qulbix 140 frame (but is way cheaper right now)
850€ QS 205 (50H) V3 Extra Type motor incl. Holmes rim, spokes and nipples, freewheel
750€ Adaptto controller with BMS and charge coil
350€ front shock RS Totem with headset
500€ BFO brakes incl. discs
80€ rear and front tire incl. air chamber, 2.75-19 Shinko SR 241 and Schwalbe Hans Dampf
125€ front wheel Halo SAS + Pro SB Spin
120€ ZEE crank + pedals
180€ RS Kage with Qulbix mount kit
50€ seat post with clamp and saddle
30€ chain and tensioner
50€ riser and stem
80€ Domino throttle with left thumb throttle for regen
50€ circuit breakers and wires, small stuff, connectors
Total 6.815€ wtf

not counted is all the work and shippng costs. I have got some parts with a dealer discount, but this are the prices you can expect building such a bike.
Make a serious offer if you are interested, the bike has less than 300 km.
 
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