knutselmaaster said:No 135. It didn't cost much effort to put it in, maybe because after the "S-bent" rear stays.
Ozzzz said:I used sheldon browns lever method to bend my fat bike steel frame, one side at a time.
Alan B said:But the problem with all these solutions is they bend the bike unequally, since the two sides never have exactly the same bending characteristics. There is a need to bend each side independently, which is more difficult.
Alan B said:If you lay the bike on it's side and use the scissor jack against a long wood block on the side against both the chainstay and seatstay tubes at about the tire, and a wire from the dropout to the jack top, then to the lower "seat tube" midway between the stays you can bend one side independently from the other. All the forces are within the one side of the rear triangle, none are on the pivots.
Okay. That's tallies with the front wheel motor with disk brake. (The v-disk front is 100mm).bigoilbob said:what I called the "skinny" version, is, I believe, ~110mm. I was blessed with a thick, steel , front fork, and enlarged it to handle my 48 volt hub.
bigoilbob said:I'm no expert, but I don't think the thicker versions have any stronger innards, more windings, or anything like that.
knutselmaaster said:As the 2-speed motors have quite a big width at a big diameter, one should check if the fork doesn't narrow down near the axle, especially at the front. A lot of front forks get less wide at a few centimetres from the axle and that may cause the motor not to fit.
Don't only check the width at the axle, but also it needs to be 100mm wide until at least 60mm from the axle.
qwerkus said:Hello, I'm considering the 2 speed xiongda motor for a second build, with more torque in mind. Sadly the motor seems very wide. Is there any chance it could fit into an aluminium 135mm disc rear frame ? Cold bending aluminum is not advisable, so I guess I only have +-2mm of spare room.
d8veh said:
d8veh said:It doesn't do any harm to bend aluminium frames. I've done it several times even on two full-suspension bikes.
I started with a 36v version. I added some solder to the shunt to take the current up to 20 amps. That made it pull 33% more up hills. Then I tried the 48v version at 15 amps, which was just about the same as the 36v one at 20 amps, but not long after I got it, I dropped the bike and damaged the motor wire. While I was waiting to repair it, I put the 36v motor in and ran it at 48v. It ran fine, though O could tell that in high gear, it wasn't very efficient, and low gear became too fast to act as a winch. I'd say that there's absolutely no point in over-volting these motors because you lose more than you gain. The 48v one with everything standard has immense climbing power. If you need more speed, you'd be better off with a Bafang BPM, MAC or Q128 with higher current.Buk___ said:d8veh said:
As you seem to have been an early adopter of the XD2, have you over-driven one to any extent? Ie 40v in to a 36V wound motor or similar.
I'm wondering if it is the default controller the limiting factor, or the windings?
I saw a vid of some guy pushing 82V into (I think) a 48V wound XD2, but he had added a thermistor to cut off when the stator got too hot. He also seemed to be trying to blow the thing.