karenw said:
Apparently, the controller requires a constant steady 10 amps or more or it will kick in.
Pretty sure whoever is saying that to you doesn't understand how the system works, or what the various numbers they have mean, because that doesnt' make any sense for anything we've seen here.
If it were a much smaller scooter, then it might make sense for a limiter to kick in if the controller drew *more* than 10 amps, as that is a common thing (with the amount of amps varying depending on design). However, your scooter is large enough that it probably takes quite a lot more amps than that to get going, even if it doesn't use that much power all the time. (depends on the speeds, hills, etc).
It is possible that they mean that when a single battery (of the 5 SLA you probably have in there) drops below 10 *volts*, that the system shuts down.
If you don't have a voltmeter, you can get one from Harbor Freight or similar stores for a few dollars--sometimes you can even get it for free if you get their coupons in the junk mail. Even the crappy ones will do this test, so you can get one from anywhere--it just has to be capable of at least 60-70v, most of them ahve a "200vdc" setting, which is what you'd leave it on for the battery tests.
As for how to test the battery, there are two (three) tests, the first is very simple:
First, simply charge the scooter at your destination. If it doesnt' ahve the problem on the return trip like it did without doing that, then your batteries simply don't ahve enough capacity to do the trip without a recharge. If it still has the problem, then it may not have anything to do with the batteries, unless its' uphill on the ride home and downhill on the way out.
Second test: Place the voltmeter across the battery during a ride, and note down the voltage you see on the trip there when you don't have a problem, and then on the trip back both before the problem starts, and then after it starts. The red voltmeter lead goes to the battery + main wire, and the black one to the battery - main wire.
Third: A better test is to do that for each battery, because it will tell you which one of them is a problem (if they all aren't). For this the voltmeter wires go to the + and - of each separate battery.
The meter wires may not be long enough to reach inside the battery case and still see the voltmeter, so you can use long alligator-clip extension wires (and electrical tape the clip-to-meter-probe connections so they cant' short against each other or the scooter frame), and then run the meter so it is up on the handlebars, or somewhere else you can easily see it. Any wire is good enough for this test, even an old cut up two-wire extension cord, with ends cut off and wires spliced into the meter test leads to make them long enough, as long as you insulate around the splice points so they can't short anything out.
You may not have to test while actually moving, but I'd look at it while moving if it's safe to do so and possible, as that will show what the system is doing under load, and is a better test of a battery than while sitting still (no load).
A fourth test I suggested previously:
Also, you should test with the limiter back in. If the problem disappears, then it means you are simply using more capacity from the batteries with the limiter removed, and your choices are to leave the limiter in and live with the old problem, or take the limiter out and live with the new problem, or to use a larger-capacity battery.
I'm surprised the dealer won't test them for you, as it's a very simple and quick test for anyone that's done it before, and is a very common thing for dealers and repair techs to have to do. Some automotive places (checker, autozone, etc) will load test a battery for free; you can ask them if they can do it with the battery still in your scooter and ride it there, then open the battery compartment and let them test each individual battery.
If you're here in Phoenix or surrounding area, I could come to you to help figure the problem out; if you're not, we'll have to do it the hard way.