new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Electricglider said:
Like 3000 or 4000 watts will make a big difference in the legal department or pedaling for that matter. We are all dirtbags here ;)
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These guys are missing the point. If you have a 18650 battery that can supply 4kw+, your capacity will necessarily be so big, that you will need to go VERY far before you need to pedal just to make the trip... So in reality you either clown pedal or don't pedal. To do these Q factor is irrelevant.
 
Q-factor matters offroad whether you are peddling or standing. But with a moto seat a bit wider probably won't be bad. I think shorter cranks are also in my future given how high the cadence is.

CYC says in 3 weeks they'll have upgrade parts in their online store. Cost will be "reasonable", but who knows on shipping.
 
Tommm said:
Electricglider said:
Like 3000 or 4000 watts will make a big difference in the legal department or pedaling for that matter. We are all dirtbags here ;)
Click to expand...

These guys are missing the point. If you have a 18650 battery that can supply 4kw+, your capacity will necessarily be so big, that you will need to go VERY far before you need to pedal just to make the trip... So in reality you either clown pedal or don't pedal. To do these Q factor is irrelevant.
Click to expand...

The point was not about range or practical use. This is a 3kw thread, not about legality.
 
Electricglider said:
Tommm said:
Electricglider said:
Like 3000 or 4000 watts will make a big difference in the legal department or pedaling for that matter. We are all dirtbags here ;)
Click to expand...

These guys are missing the point. If you have a 18650 battery that can supply 4kw+, your capacity will necessarily be so big, that you will need to go VERY far before you need to pedal just to make the trip... So in reality you either clown pedal or don't pedal. To do these Q factor is irrelevant.
Click to expand...

The point was not about range or practical use. This is a 3kw thread, not about legality.
Click to expand...

Also true. Register it if it's easy to do where you live, otherwise stay stealth.
 
Asi85 said:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mx4Gq3kiIY&feature=youtu.be
Cyclone 3000w issue under heavy load... Gearbox is OK! Without load evryting is fine. If i give slowly gas it's fine and i can go with full speed. Have somebody any idea what is it? Can do this hall sensor issue? Sorry for my English...
PLZ help :) !
Click to expand...

I'm not too sure but it sounds like your one way clutch bearing needs replacing. It seems like it's slipping or something.
 
Sorry, I know this is an old thread but I posted separately and only got one answer, I'm hoping people here might know more. I have a mini cyclone and I'm running 2400 watts through it, 60 volt 40 amp. It's the stock cyclone controller, and I've had it shutoff during hard riding like three times. When this happens the motor is extremely hot, like hot enough that I could probably cook something on it. My issue is that even if the motor controller doesn't shut things off (which I've been using as a heat protection feature I guess) during hard riding (as in 35+ mph + hills) the motor is still very very hot, I can feel the heat radiating off of it. Is this normal for these motors? or am I going to cook my motor and burn it up eventually? I do keep my rpms high so that the motor is as efficient as possible and I never lug it or anything.
 
speedyebikenoob said:
Is this normal for these motors? or am I going to cook my motor and burn it up eventually? I do keep my rpms high so that the motor is as efficient as possible and I never lug it or anything.
Click to expand...

Normal for that size of a motor.

Yes it will burn up.

It will still cook if you are going 35mph and on hills, lugging or not. You need to switch to an easier gear and go slower with high rpm.

Those small motors aren't made for that power anyway, time for an upgrade.
 
Tommm said:
speedyebikenoob said:
Is this normal for these motors? or am I going to cook my motor and burn it up eventually? I do keep my rpms high so that the motor is as efficient as possible and I never lug it or anything.
Click to expand...

Normal for that size of a motor.

Yes it will burn up.

It will still cook if you are going 35mph and on hills, lugging or not. You need to switch to an easier gear and go slower with high rpm.

Those small motors aren't made for that power anyway, time for an upgrade.
Click to expand...

yeah I don't actually push it that hard up mountains anymore, but I really would like to keep this motor because of how compact it is, obviously I can't have everything. Is there like a temperature at which I shouldn't be exceeding for these motors? And is relying on the motor controller to shut off everything for me when thing get hot a bad idea?
 
Badgermilk said:
Has anyone used collar clamps to mount a cyclone directly to the down tube? I saw a guy on YouTube weld some clamps to work with the cyclone, but he never posted any follow-up on how well they worked. I think he used aluminum. I bought some steel ones and had them welded up, and they seem to be working really well. The motor has zero lateral movement, and I don't need a chain tensioner. Here are a few pictures. Is there something I need to be worried about with this setup?
Click to expand...

this looks brilliant.. super clean, no need for a BB mount or a tensioner puller. I was considering buying the Luna 3D mount for $140 shipped.. instead I just spend $16 on two clamps and I'll shoot a friend some cash to weld them up for me. :bigthumb: :bigthumb: :bigthumb:

btw what did you weld onto the clamps that connects to the motor? it looks like you made some kind of hook or something to grab onto the bolts? I was thinking a thick tube to run the bolts through would work
 
A day ago my newest built edirtbike's motor started growling while on a hillside ride. I looked at the emotor app on my cell and it read "Hall Fault". The motor was dead but the slope was downhill to the car.

The motor on this ebike has the new water proof plug and the new motor mount bracket whose left side fastens on top of the left motor cap. This left motor plate had to be loosened to get the motor cap off. --easy job. There is a new addition inside mounted in series on the plus side wire leading to the circuit board. I suspect this white case component is a thermal sensor? Triggering at what temp? Is it a one time Temp fuse which must be replaced after one hot motor detection?

This thermal sensor had continuity so it was left in the circuit. But unless this temp sensor has a low threshold you could still overheat the motor as it was not bonded to the motor whatsoever.

The 2 circuit boards were different but similar. The one from Sick Bike Parts had slightly smaller transistors making for an easier insertion of them. Otherwise it is up and running.

The new motor mounts have been quite adequate so far -- no need for all the beefing up of the motor frame. Or are all of these complainers from the Lightning Rod Camp making false news? And trying to undermine the worth of this vast improvement? If so waste you words and time, I know what works better having had the other.
 
Its easy. Only 4 bolts on output shaft side. Then take gearbox out and take out lock rings on gears.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q4XnKGF1QrdRRvqCA
 
I'm looking for some good looking 175mm ISIS crank arms that accept a freewheel and will clear the Cyclone 3000w with standard 68/73 bb. I see a lot of trials cranksets online but I don't want to spend $60-100 a pop to find out they don't clear the motor!

Has anybody tried anything besides the stock crank arms that you can buy from Luna or Sick Bike Parts? Neither offer 175mm ISIS arms, and the arms they do sell are pretty fugly. The trials cranks look a lot nicer and might be lighter and stiffer too. The 5mm difference isn't a big deal when using the motor but when just riding without it, I definitely notice myself wanting the extra leverage.
 
lukashanak said:
Its easy. Only 4 bolts on output shaft side. Then take gearbox out and take out lock rings on gears.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q4XnKGF1QrdRRvqCA
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Can you share a bit about your 150a setup? I have a 4kw motor too, curious how it handles it.
 
Tommm said:
Can you share a bit about your 150a setup? I have a 4kw motor too, curious how it handles it.
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i'm curious too.. I thought the 4k motor was rated for 45a
 
sjrides said:
Tommm said:
Can you share a bit about your 150a setup? I have a 4kw motor too, curious how it handles it.
Click to expand...

i'm curious too.. I thought the 4k motor was rated for 45a
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Those numbers are made up... The motor core is 30% wider.
 
Hi. I'm in the middle of building a couple of 2000's era freeride/downhill bikes with the cyclone 3000. I am encountering an issue on my first build and was wondering if anyone had any ideas/solutions. My drive on the bike had a 22/33 chainring setup and a topswing deore front derailleur. Despite pre-build tinkering, I was getting chainrub on the bottom cage of the derailleur in the smaller chainring. I ordered a kit with 3 front rings - one drive and a 42 and 22 chainring. The derailleur doesn't seem to have enough range. My thoughts are maybe I can replace the derailleur with a newer one with greater range - not sure if this is available or scrap the idea of a double front chainring set up and just go with a 33. I opted for the 22 as I intend to use the bike for going up steep logging roads to access the back country for hiking/climbing. Anyone faced a similar issue?
Thanks
Mike
 
Just get a wide range 9spd rear and use the 42 front.

Even 44f/32r will climb any road you could get a log truck up. Actually it'll just about climb anything a human can walk up.
 
Grantmac said:
Just get a wide range 9spd rear and use the 42 front.

Even 44f/32r will climb any road you could get a log truck up. Actually it'll just about climb anything a human can walk up.
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Hey thanks for responding. Nice to see another BC person here. I'm in North Van.
 
mstulken@telus.net said:
Hi. I'm in the middle of building a couple of 2000's era freeride/downhill bikes with the cyclone 3000. I am encountering an issue on my first build and was wondering if anyone had any ideas/solutions. My drive on the bike had a 22/33 chainring setup and a topswing deore front derailleur. Despite pre-build tinkering, I was getting chainrub on the bottom cage of the derailleur in the smaller chainring. I ordered a kit with 3 front rings - one drive and a 42 and 22 chainring. The derailleur doesn't seem to have enough range. My thoughts are maybe I can replace the derailleur with a newer one with greater range - not sure if this is available or scrap the idea of a double front chainring set up and just go with a 33. I opted for the 22 as I intend to use the bike for going up steep logging roads to access the back country for hiking/climbing. Anyone faced a similar issue?
Thanks
Mike
Click to expand...

I got an answer from Luna and confirmed what I had been moving to in my mind "Well the issue is that the cyclone cannot be used properly with a front derailleur, that is why you dont see any pictures of it on the listing or the forum. The triple chainring offers you 2 different ratio to choose from (like trail or street) but it must be shifted manually with your fingers, changing gear while pedalling or under power will result in a bent chain ring (specially with such a large gap)."
 
For chain and sprocket life you are much better using a larger chainring with the best possible chainline and getting a large enough rear cassette to climb what you need.
In my experience a 44 front and 34 rear on 26" rims will climb pretty much anything you have the traction to get up.
 
Tommm said:
lukashanak said:
Its easy. Only 4 bolts on output shaft side. Then take gearbox out and take out lock rings on gears.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q4XnKGF1QrdRRvqCA
Click to expand...

Can you share a bit about your 150a setup? I have a 4kw motor too, curious how it handles it.
Click to expand...

Sorry, I was kayaking last weeks.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/A4xLD8bL7atkThEo9

What do you want to know?
Its cyclone 4kw mounted on Specialized Epic. Upgraded motor mounts, freewheels, steel chainrings (big on motor for lower forces on bike chain and cog), brakes, shorter trial isis cranks, steel gears in gearbox now,sabvoton 72150 controller and 3x10ah +3x8ah lipos (18s 18ah pack). Now thinking about gearbox oil mod and some cooling mod for motor. I have temp sensor and controller limits power when overheated. If i dont ride to hard, its ok but summer wil be worse...
 
lukashanak said:
Sorry, I was kayaking last weeks.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/A4xLD8bL7atkThEo9

What do you want to know?
Its cyclone 4kw mounted on Specialized Epic. Upgraded motor mounts, freewheels, steel chainrings (big on motor for lower forces on bike chain and cog), brakes, shorter trial isis cranks, steel gears in gearbox now,sabvoton 72150 controller and 3x10ah +3x8ah lipos (18s 18ah pack). Now thinking about gearbox oil mod and some cooling mod for motor. I have temp sensor and controller limits power when overheated. If i dont ride to hard, its ok but summer wil be worse...
Click to expand...

How many amps and phase amps have you set it to? Do you know the temp of the motor while riding and what does the sensor measure, coil temp?
How fast does it get to 100C or whatever your limit is if you hammer it?

You can just change the gearbox grease, it made it quieter for me, mobiltemp shc 100, designed for electric motors with high heat.
 
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