GNG / CYC X1 Pro 3000w

I knew the controller would be garbage. Controllers from motor makers are almost always poorly matched or designed. Seems that you guys would have a lot more luck running an ASI BAC*.
 
Föppel said:
Hey Lenk,
...so my question; are you changing your setting via the "Beta-app", or does your bluetooth stil working after the firmware update?
You guys having the problem that your throttle hit to hard? Thats what i would like to have.
i was able to set the amps to a higher value via the beta-app, but cant go higher then 40amp on the battery (battery fuse).
-->The amps in the app, those are the phase-amps, right? how do i know how much phase amps i can set, to not burn the fuse on the battery?
cheerio, föppel

Howdy, I am still changing all my settings via the Beta app. Never was able to create a user account with the android app released here in the US. Talking with the SW engineers I work with, based on the nature of the errors that are generated while attempting to create a user account, the app contains some coding errors that have not been resolved.

Regarding throttle response, i cant really get it to come on any differently no matter what I do. There are three beta app settings for throttle type - current, power,& speed. I've asked Jon on two separate occasions to please explain how each of these has been configured to work so that I can better understand how to config the throttle for my applications. I have tried each setting and it feels no different. Jon has not responded to this specific question.

I have made some progress getting the bike to respond for PAS and throttle more consistently, but its pretty ridiculous to have a controller that doesn't have the functional programmability of at least something like an infineon base controller.

I asked jon to provide the software so I could just program the controller directly from my laptop, but he danced around that option. I think their solution of an "app" based programming interface keeps their proprietary software from the fate of the bafang software, while providing us with an extremely light version through the app. Which sucks.

Jon has taken my feedback into consideration and has indicated that the new firmware, app, and future controllers will have these features (it will work, more programming parameters, throttle independent of PAS setting, access to torque settings, etc.)

Regarding the amps setting in the app, in the beta app it is indicated as "phase amps" so I would assume you are correct.

It still is a nice little kit, I have my power settings to the max, I have the medium chainring size. With the power at 100% the bicycle chain slips on the three smallest rear cogs. Bike gets up to around 35mph or so on the flats. So I really dont need much more power, its just the smoothness and predictability that I'm after.

After riding some of the brose - motor based specialized ebikes, although the were not nearly as powerful or cheap as what we can build, the bikes were clearly engineered to feel like a seamless extension of human body power output. Smoothest bikes I have ever ridden. Thats what I am after, just much more powerful.

I built this bike anticipating a long commute due to our company relocating across town. I'm actually planning on riding the continental divide on a mountain bike in the upcoming year or two, maybe i should just go back to pedalling 100%.

Cheers,

Len
 
Any updates on the drive? I thought this thing looked really promising. Or is everyone just out riding without issues?
 
Just received my kit last week put it together within 8 hours ran into a few bumps with the width of crank arms from bottom bracket rubbing rear lower frame .
And also make sure on electronic brake cut outs too make sure that the little magnet touches sensor if not
The bike will not go .but other than that I’m very happy I bought the bike and kit to tackle hills where I live . I’m 300lbs and bike took me up hill with ease and motor temp was at 40c . I will try too upload some videos later but here are some pics enjoy 😊
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*craning neck*

Cool, what voltage are you running on and what kind of top speeds are you seeing?
 
neptronix said:
*craning neck*

Cool, what voltage are you running on and what kind of top speeds are you seeing?

im running 52 volts with a 14ah luna cycle triangle pack
top speed so far 30mph which is fast enough for me :D
 
That 1s throttle delay is horrible. If they cant get it better by new firmware I will need new controller. Any suggestions? Bac800 or Castle talon hv 80? I hope some RTR controller kit comes to markets.. I think that motor is good.
 
CYC wrote me field weakening might come as a software update to the 72v controller, no idea if there is any intent or truth to it...
 
Tommm said:
CYC wrote me field weakening might come as a software update to the 72v controller, no idea if there is any intent or truth to it...
The key word is MIGHT.
 
Does anyone have both the geared and chain reduced version of this drive to compare noise? I got the chain reduction cuz I figured it will be quieter.
 
flat tire said:
Does anyone have both the geared and chain reduced version of this drive to compare noise? I got the chain reduction cuz I figured it will be quieter.

They are the same in my opinion.
I guess most of the noice comes from the planetary gear reduction.
 
Here's something fun :

A 2500w carbon road bike.

https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=101776#p1488043

mfiERTf.jpg






A few things I found while installing the kit:

1. The left bb cup is too short to thread into the bb shell. It needs to be literally twice as long to have the functinality that it needs. I'm not impressed with this. The cyclone 3000 kit has this ability, with a long, threaded sleeve, with several lockrings to get the spacing right. I like that system better, since you can hard-mount everything, instead of leaving the left side unsecured.

2. The PAS sensor is about 3~4mm too thick for the gap between the left crank arm and bb cup. Attempting to torque the crankarm will freeze it in place, against the PAS sensor. The red anodized sleeve on the ISIS spindle should have a little more length, or it can be made up somewhere else.

3. The stock tension on the 219 chain idler is very tight. You can force the tensioner against the spring to soften it up. I remember on the cyclone motor, how much of a difference it was with the motor -> crank chain tension, in terms of sound and parasitic loss. Having fun at high rpm will kill your battery with a tight chain.




Other than that, it seems like a solid kit. Can't wait to put it on a more sensible bike and take advantage of more reduction.
 
hypertoric_amplituhedron said:
Here's something fun :

A 2500w carbon road bike.

https://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=101776#p1488043

mfiERTf.jpg






A few things I found while installing the kit:

1. The left bb cup is too short to thread into the bb shell. It needs to be literally twice as long to have the functinality that it needs. I'm not impressed with this. The cyclone 3000 kit has this ability, with a long, threaded sleeve, with several lockrings to get the spacing right. I like that system better, since you can hard-mount everything, instead of leaving the left side unsecured.

2. The PAS sensor is about 3~4mm too thick for the gap between the left crank arm and bb cup. Attempting to torque the crankarm will freeze it in place, against the PAS sensor. The red anodized sleeve on the ISIS spindle should have a little more length, or it can be made up somewhere else.

3. The stock tension on the 219 chain idler is very tight. You can force the tensioner against the spring to soften it up. I remember on the cyclone motor, how much of a difference it was with the motor -> crank chain tension, in terms of sound and parasitic loss. Having fun at high rpm will kill your battery with a tight chain.




Other than that, it seems like a solid kit. Can't wait to put it on a more sensible bike and take advantage of more reduction.
i thought the same about the pas sensor but the gap is just right bc the little splines on the pas sensor fits into the bb cup .
if you look closely you will see little inserts in the cup for the sensor.....hope this helps :D /quote]
 
even after grinding down those splines you refer to (since I thought they were too long) , the sensor still was too thick. It's the whole body that's the problem. But, at the same time, it could be a minor difference in the bb shell on my bike. I haven't mic'ed it, but that could be the culprit, since the three spacers were a fairly tight fit in between the motor mounts. I could have a 69.5 or 70mm shell , when it should be standard 68. Who knows, I won't be using PAS anyways.
 
Anyone has the pin-out for the hall/temp connector? My unit is being shipped right now so I haven't tried it out yet, but if there's such a huge delay in the throttle (sounds totally unusable), I'll be fine using a Castle HV80+CA3 instead.
 
For throttle response I've been running this drive on castle edge HV 160 10S. Works pretty well but the BAC2000 on 18S will be much better.

Also looks like the crank freewheel is underspecced. Mine has slight play. Will see if I can replace with my spare SBP freewheel.
 
Just got my kit up and running. My first impressions of the throttle and controller are mixed, but the motor is a solid piece of hardware.

It's nice to be able to configure in the field with bluetooth but the update cycles are surprisingly slow. Downloading/uploading settings takes way too many seconds.
The only throttle mode that is close to usable seems to be "speed", the "current" or "wattage" one just makes the bike jump away start.
I also gotten a lot of BMS cutting out since the controller doesn't seem to care much about what voltage the pack is and pulls max amps at all SoC. I use rclipo, 14s and a 50v low threshold, but I get the feeling the controller doesn't care much about those parameters.

I seem to run firmware revision 18. Anyone got anything newer?
Has anyone confirmed that the thermal sensor is a ntc10k?
 
flat tire said:
Any reasons not to add ferrofluid to this motor?

its a very high rpm inrunner?

ie - no benefit, and (likely) notable drag losses.
 
Hi guys, maybe you can help-
I currently run a BBSHD paired with an ASI BAC800 controller, with a 84V battery. I limit the battery current to 42A (to protect the nylon gear) which gives me a little more than 3KW peak.

I was thinking of upgrading to the X1 pro to get more power.
How are these numbers compared to the X1 pro? Will I be able to run it at 55-60 amps?

Thanks!
 
endrew said:
Hi guys, maybe you can help-
I currently run a BBSHD paired with an ASI BAC800 controller, with a 84V battery. I limit the battery current to 42A (to protect the nylon gear) which gives me a little more than 3KW peak.

I was thinking of upgrading to the X1 pro to get more power.
How are these numbers compared to the X1 pro? Will I be able to run it at 55-60 amps?

Thanks!

Cyc say at least 80-90a peak.
 
Tommm said:
endrew said:
Hi guys, maybe you can help-
I currently run a BBSHD paired with an ASI BAC800 controller, with a 84V battery. I limit the battery current to 42A (to protect the nylon gear) which gives me a little more than 3KW peak.

I was thinking of upgrading to the X1 pro to get more power.
How are these numbers compared to the X1 pro? Will I be able to run it at 55-60 amps?

Thanks!

Cyc say at least 80-90a peak.

OK, Thanks!
Id like to hear from your experience if that's actually the case?
 
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