new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

matt912836 said:
flat tire said:
matt912836 said:
Ideas?
Click to expand...

The motor is made for bottom dollar by people who don't care that much and you slightly damaged some insulation / started to connect a winding to the stator or another winding when the internals were shocked / moved around slightly upon crashing. Happens all the time in these cheap chinese motors when ridden hard or crashed.

The damage is probably terminal and the only solution is to rewind the motor. Preferably with a decent magnet wire and properly isolated stator next time. Then you need to epoxy the windings so they can't move around.
Click to expand...
Tommm said:
Take it apart then. See if the shaft moves as easily as it did before. Same with the freewheel.
Click to expand...

I was really hoping it was just a bearing gone bad or something, but upon further inspection, the top bolt on the drive side the motor holding the motor onto the mount happens to have sheered off right at the beginning of the threads. I will have to use a left handed drill bit to get the threaded piece out the motor, hopefully this was the original problem but honestly not sure as I'm only noticing this now after continuing to ride the motor hard (wheelies and all) and almost having the motor chain snap on me. Now i see why the chain almost snapped, because the motor is now moving in the mount. Only thing is it definitely wasnt doing this immediately after the crash, it's only now the motor is clear its loose.

Anyone know the size of the bolts that are on the freewheel side of the motor? Its atleast an inch and a half before the threads actually begin.

Also, if this doesnt fix the problem, wheres the easiest and cheapest place to source a replacement motor? I see some replies about it being $99 for a new one shipped..
Click to expand...

You see $99 because the cyclone warranty works that way, you pay for shipping only.

The motor has 2 parts, gearbox and motor core. You don't need to get the whole thing if you stripped something. You got any pictures?
 
Tommm said:
matt912836 said:
flat tire said:
matt912836 said:
Ideas?
Click to expand...

The motor is made for bottom dollar by people who don't care that much and you slightly damaged some insulation / started to connect a winding to the stator or another winding when the internals were shocked / moved around slightly upon crashing. Happens all the time in these cheap chinese motors when ridden hard or crashed.

The damage is probably terminal and the only solution is to rewind the motor. Preferably with a decent magnet wire and properly isolated stator next time. Then you need to epoxy the windings so they can't move around.
Click to expand...
Tommm said:
Take it apart then. See if the shaft moves as easily as it did before. Same with the freewheel.
Click to expand...

I was really hoping it was just a bearing gone bad or something, but upon further inspection, the top bolt on the drive side the motor holding the motor onto the mount happens to have sheered off right at the beginning of the threads. I will have to use a left handed drill bit to get the threaded piece out the motor, hopefully this was the original problem but honestly not sure as I'm only noticing this now after continuing to ride the motor hard (wheelies and all) and almost having the motor chain snap on me. Now i see why the chain almost snapped, because the motor is now moving in the mount. Only thing is it definitely wasnt doing this immediately after the crash, it's only now the motor is clear its loose.

Anyone know the size of the bolts that are on the freewheel side of the motor? Its atleast an inch and a half before the threads actually begin.

Also, if this doesnt fix the problem, wheres the easiest and cheapest place to source a replacement motor? I see some replies about it being $99 for a new one shipped..
Click to expand...

You see $99 because the cyclone warranty works that way, you pay for shipping only.

The motor has 2 parts, gearbox and motor core. You don't need to get the whole thing if you stripped something. You got any pictures?
Click to expand...

Looks like fixing the broken bolt seems to have solved my problem, but now I've run into another one, one I've had before...

The bolts that hold the chain rings together dont seem to be strong enough to hold up to heavy 3000w abuse. This is the second time I've had a chainring bolt break on me and almost destroy my whole drivetrain in the process. First I had problems with them loosening, loctite fixed that. Now they just seem to not be strong enough and definitely doesnt help that they're hollow even though they are steel.

Anyone have an alternative for a nice solid bolt and nut to fasten the chainrings together? In the meantime I'm going to head to home depot to see what bolt will best fit the diameter of the lip on the chainring bolts.
 
Hi yes you will not find stock chian ring bolt good for powerful middrive
You a m8 countsink bolt and back half of the stock bolt
It been a long time you may to retap back half

Use 2 drills the fasTers way i know .

Good luck
 
Does the "Battery current limit" value basically control how many amps are drawn from the battery? I have mine set to 75% with a 48v battery, which gives me 30amp * 48v = 1440w. If I switch to a 60v battery, and adjust the Battery Current Limit to 60%, that should give me the same 1440w, right? 24amp * 60v = 1440w

Does anyone know the difference between the Battery Current Limit and the Phase Current Limit?
 
sjrides said:
Does the "Battery current limit" value basically control how many amps are drawn from the battery? I have mine set to 75% with a 48v battery, which gives me 30amp * 48v = 1440w. If I switch to a 60v battery, and adjust the Battery Current Limit to 60%, that should give me the same 1440w, right? 24amp * 60v = 1440w

Does anyone know the difference between the Battery Current Limit and the Phase Current Limit?
Click to expand...

It will give you the same watts but it will feel different. Lower torque but higher maximum rpm.

Phase current limit is something completely different. It shows the current going to the motor. It is usually 1.5 to 2.3x of the battery current. It is enough that you know that with more phase current you will accelerate harder in the begining, even with the same battery current setting.
 
Tommm said:
It will give you the same watts but it will feel different. Lower torque but higher maximum rpm.
Click to expand...

ah, thanks. I was actually hoping it would be the opposite, same rpm but more torque. guess not! So in general, amps have to do with torque and volts with rpm?
 
sjrides said:
Tommm said:
It will give you the same watts but it will feel different. Lower torque but higher maximum rpm.
Click to expand...

ah, thanks. I was actually hoping it would be the opposite, same rpm but more torque. guess not! So in general, amps have to do with torque and volts with rpm?
Click to expand...

Yes, but on a mid drive you can just shift down and it will be the same.
 
this is on a single speed system. it's all good, i'll probably just not adjust the amps unless I need to get more range since torque is more important than top speed
 


Need some help pls

I bought the new cyclone kit aka gng 2019 cyclone.

I only hve the controller and a basic throttle without a key or something to turn the controller on or off. If i understand correctly, the lonely red wire that connects directly to the positive wire from the battery is the wire that switches the controller on. Do i understand correctly that all i need it is to cut that red wire somewhere and install some sort of a switch to make sure my controller is not always turned on? (Like so that i do not need to disconnect the battery all the time?)

Thanks
 
TOLM said:


Need some help pls

I bought the new cyclone kit aka gng 2019 cyclone.

I only hve the controller and a basic throttle without a key or something to turn the controller on or off. If i understand correctly, the lonely red wire that connects directly to the positive wire from the battery is the wire that switches the controller on. Do i understand correctly that all i need it is to cut that red wire somewhere and install some sort of a switch to make sure my controller is not always turned on? (Like so that i do not need to disconnect the battery all the time?)

Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes, the thin red wire that goes to battery and usually has a label "power switch" on it.
 
Tommm said:
TOLM said:


Need some help pls

I bought the new cyclone kit aka gng 2019 cyclone.

I only hve the controller and a basic throttle without a key or something to turn the controller on or off. If i understand correctly, the lonely red wire that connects directly to the positive wire from the battery is the wire that switches the controller on. Do i understand correctly that all i need it is to cut that red wire somewhere and install some sort of a switch to make sure my controller is not always turned on? (Like so that i do not need to disconnect the battery all the time?)

Thanks
Click to expand...

Yes, the thin red wire that goes to battery and usually has a label "power switch" on it.
Click to expand...
Thanks Tommm
 
thank for reply.
i have open the motor, all is in place and dry.
I seem that the rear bearing (6201) is fautly.
20190611.jpg

20190612.jpg
 
Brazilian talking to the automatic translator, strange things may appear.

You may need to look not for the maximum power of the motor, but for voltage, and especially the maximum current. Since power is the relationship between voltage and current. First it is interesting to find the maximum voltage supported by the motor. With this we can determine the current required for a desired power. The main research is to find the maximum current because it is only the current that generates heat. The more current the more heating. The ideal test would be to subject the motor to a certain current that will keep it below 110ºC. If this motor supports 25A continuously, for example at 84V we have continuous power of 2.1kW without relevant heating. Am I right?
 
laerciohj said:
Brazilian talking to the automatic translator, strange things may appear.

You may need to look not for the maximum power of the motor, but for voltage, and especially the maximum current. Since power is the relationship between voltage and current. First it is interesting to find the maximum voltage supported by the motor. With this we can determine the current required for a desired power. The main research is to find the maximum current because it is only the current that generates heat. The more current the more heating. The ideal test would be to subject the motor to a certain current that will keep it below 110ºC. If this motor supports 25A continuously, for example at 84V we have continuous power of 2.1kW without relevant heating. Am I right?
Click to expand...

Yes, and 2.1kw continuous is about right for the 3kw and about 2.5kw for the 4kw motor. The cyclones lack cooling fins to have a high continuous rating.
 
IMG_20190819_081739-756x1008.jpg
IMG_20190819_081729-1008x756.jpg
Ultralight and narrow Cyclone 4000W :)
11/72 gearing, so gearbox is needless.
About 2kgs less weight compared to my previous setup.
 
Very good, I guess the cooling gets better too that way. I will go as far as saying this is the way the cyclones should have been sold from the start. You don't need 2 stages for this motor at all.
 
Hi c3000 cyclone with fan stay at around 35c which is cool. Floorless last 3 months dry and water plus sand

You lose 1.6 not use gearbox heatup faster.
Nice it work on flat land. Dont try a real hill.

Next motor c4800 in 2 weeks
 
aCeMadMod said:
Hi c3000 cyclone with fan stay at around 35c which is cool. Floorless last 3 months dry and water plus sand

You lose 1.6 not use gearbox heatup faster.
Nice it work on flat land. Dont try a real hill.

Next motor c4800 in 2 weeks
Click to expand...

No flat land many kms around me. I can climb anything where I dont fall to my back. This is same reduction like my previous setup.
With gearbox I used 22/30 front and 36/11-40 back. And now without gearbox 11/72 front and 30/11-40 back. Its exactly same reduction.
 
Lukashanak, super cool, thanks for sharing!

Can you share what freewheel and 72t sprocket did you use? Would definitely be interested to learn more how to
 
mstulken@telus.net said:
Grantmac said:
Just get a wide range 9spd rear and use the 42 front.

Even 44f/32r will climb any road you could get a log truck up. Actually it'll just about climb anything a human can walk up.
Click to expand...

Hey thanks for responding. Nice to see another BC person here. I'm in North Van.
Click to expand...

Another bc guy here (burnaby).. The thing sure climbs anything easily
 
TOLM said:
Lukashanak, super cool, thanks for sharing!

Can you share what freewheel and 72t sprocket did you use? Would definitely be interested to learn more how to
Click to expand...

Motor is without freewheel. 11/72 sprockets with 219h chain from Cycmotor x1 pro. And narrower bottom bracket. Nobody pedals with high power ebike. :D Motor resistance force is not to high, so you can pedal. And always I can release tensioner and remove front chain if something fail a I need to pedal longer way.... :D
After week of riding I can say, that its better than with gearbox and freewheel. Lighter bike, narrower cranks and little quiter than gearbox with steel gears.
 
Hi everyone, I'm looking into purchasing this bike (2015 KHS 4 Season 3000): http://1d8piv1xedxt3k9gin22z4pqb30-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/2015-KHS-4Season_3000.pdf but I'm not sure if the bottom bracket style is compatible with the cyclone 3000W kit. It lists "outboard cartridge bearing" for the bottom bracket on that bike. Any ideas?

Thanks
 
Has anyone ever modified one of these yuyangking controllers for higher voltage? I have the black 72v 40a bluetooth controller, currently shunt modded for 50 amps peaks. I want to go 22s for a touch more RPMs. Basically I want it to be able to reach the speeds it achieves with flux weakening (3rd speed mode) but without having to deal with the inefficiency and extra current draw associated with flux weakening. This would also widen the powerband in each gear since you could then achieve those higher rpms with regular 100% speed. And while it does have 100v caps, when I try to feed it 21s or 22s it simply does not want to run. Would it be as simple as swapping out a resistor on the inside, or something much more complicated?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Cryingmadman
How and where can I buy a Toseven mid drive Motor kit?
Replies
1
Views
1,184
rondi7
R
U
Folding mid drive conversion options?
2 3 4 5 6
Replies
129
Views
4,753
kcikY
K
O
Help Me Decide Which Mid Drive Kit To Buy.
Replies
20
Views
2,092
o00scorpion00o
O
A
Outrunner left side mid-drive conversion
Replies
19
Views
1,751
crazy dreamer
C
G
Reviving an Old Front Hub E-Bike with a New Rear Drive: Need Advice and Help Choosing Parts
Replies
8
Views
614
999zip999
999zip999
Back
Top