GNG / CYC X1 Pro 3000w

knurf said:
n2mb said:
knurf said:
n2mb said:
Has anyone gotten the throttle to work well on the stock 14s controller? It is terrible, even with the latest firmware. Super slow and when you hit the throttle from a stop, the motor oscillates and then shuts down. On PAS it is fine. I can't understand why a simple throttle control could be so hard! It's unbelievable.

Also, has anyone fixed the chain ring wobble? I tried tightening the crank, but it still wobbles when you pedal or freewheel the pedals.
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What kind of battery (and limits) do you feed it? For me it seems to oscillate more when the battery struggles to deliver enough current, and lower gears, higher rpm tend to behave a little better in that case. The controller also seems pretty bad at dialing back power when voltage is lower (this is something the CA does very well) and my BMS sometimes shut down due to single cell low when I push it.

My chainring also wobbles very slightly but its barely noticable (a common problem for all these setups, Tangent included, as far as I have seen). I just keep an eye on it, so it doesn't get any worse.
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Good point. I'm using a 14s4p 30q battery. Luna wolf. Should be good for 80A peak.

It doesn't oscillate when using PAS, with the same hard start. Only on throttle...
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Hm well I haven't tried PAS, but I know a 30q 4p battery will have to struggle to deliver 2000w if below 50-75% SoC. Try running lower gears, let it rev more, see if it does anything to help.
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Yeah, this was at 85 - 90% SoC. Lower gears are better, but still bad. I've tried to pick a mid-range gear and run it single speed on the road, so I don't have to shift and I get the best chain line. It's a gear that does about 30 mph on the flats.

I think there is something wrong with their phase / power limiting algorithm that only comes up on throttle and not with the PAS.
 
Meanwhile my 12S Castle HV160 continues to flawlessly drive this thing with INSTANT throttle response and totally reliable power every time. They're only $250.
 
flat tire said:
Meanwhile my 12S Castle HV160 continues to flawlessly drive this thing with INSTANT throttle response and totally reliable power every time. They're only $250.
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Link to "this thing's" build thread?
 
flat tire said:
Meanwhile my 12S Castle HV160 continues to flawlessly drive this thing with INSTANT throttle response and totally reliable power every time. They're only $250.
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Just watch it with the water... I've killed more CC ESC than I want to count with water damage :( Biggest advantage the stock controller has is that it's fully potted. Did you calibrate the thermal sensor?
 
I'm not running a thermal sensor and my bike doesn't have a build thread.

Thanks for the heads up on the water! I will keep that in mind. Maybe I can pot the CC, but rarely do my bicycles get wet.
 
flat tire said:
I'm not running a thermal sensor and my bike doesn't have a build thread.

Thanks for the heads up on the water! I will keep that in mind. Maybe I can pot the CC, but rarely do my bicycles get wet.
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I've had some success by picking them apart, scraping off original thermal paste with a toothpick, coating electronics with silicon conformal coating (similar to clear nail polish), applying new thermal paste and reassembling. Held up even for winter usage and slush. But just a few days ago I almost cleaned it to death anyway, not sure how. Luckily a light baking in the oven fixed that :D
 
Anyone know how many RPM this thing can take before flinging magnets? I see there are possibly two different rotor types, since the one on my early X1 pro appears to be different from the one I got a month or so ago.
 
n2mb said:
Yeah, I'm still trying to figure out how to change gears on mine without crunching.... I guess slow down pedaling enough so that the PAS stops? It is strange...
Click to expand...

Okay, I figured it out:

Hook up the throttle, and when you want to change gears, you want to quickly push the throttle to WOT, then let off, while at the same exact time you click the shifter. This will let off the power while pedaling and re-engage at just the right time, after the chain catches. When you time it right, there should be a short pause instead of a longer one. It takes time to learn, as I just figured it out today.

I now ride in mode 2 , PAS 5 which is the US legal 750w. I'm usually in the 43Tx12T gear cruising at 25-26 mph. On hills and downwind, the 11T can hit 28-30mph. I can get about 60 miles on a 14s7p of 35E , 900wh.
 
hypertoric_amplituhedron said:
n2mb said:
Yeah, I'm still trying to figure out how to change gears on mine without crunching.... I guess slow down pedaling enough so that the PAS stops? It is strange...
Click to expand...

Okay, I figured it out:

Hook up the throttle, and when you want to change gears, you want to quickly push the throttle to WOT, then let off, while at the same exact time you click the shifter. This will let off the power while pedaling and re-engage at just the right time, after the chain catches. When you time it right, there should be a short pause instead of a longer one. It takes time to learn, as I just figured it out today.

I now ride in mode 2 , PAS 5 which is the US legal 750w. I'm usually in the 43Tx12T gear cruising at 25-26 mph. On hills and downwind, the 11T can hit 28-30mph. I can get about 60 miles on a 14s7p of 35E , 900wh.
Click to expand...

Interesting!

Yeah, I've found about 1500W (PAS 2) to be the upper limit of what is useful off road while pedaling. On road, I use PAS 5, 3500W and throttle!!! Looks like about 35 mph.
 
Hi

Does anyone have the full motor specs to be able to put on the motor comparison spreadsheet ?

What is the rotor size and how does it compare to the cyclone mini that is also around 3000w at 48v. KV seems to be the same around 150v.

is this a 4 pole inrunner ? and will it run on a normal ebike controller ?
 
Gab said:
Does anyone have the full motor specs to be able to put on the motor comparison spreadsheet ?
Click to expand...

Any info about this motor can be found here: https://www.cycmotor.com/x1-pro

Gab said:
and will it run on a normal ebike controller ?
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Yes, people were doing this before the stock controller was released with the kit. ASI and some others.
 
What price to be people pay for this posted ? Does this have trumps 25pcnt import tariff ?
 
john61ct said:
Has anyone been charged any tariff in these product categories yet, at all?
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The tariffs only apply to shipments over $2K (or is it $2500?). And it seems to apply to country of origin(manufacture), not where it is shipped from. Is CYC manufactured in HK or mainland China?
I had to pay tariffs on a large shipment ASI controllers shipped from Canada because they are made in China.
 
Hello my people. I fell deep for this motor when I first saw glimpses of it a year ago but the honeymoon is over and we need a little counseling perhaps to strengthen our relationship again. I can't seem to get the PAS to work at all. I've tried every trick I can think of shy of replacing parts. Before I start going backward... am I missing some simple setting or parameter? Setting up on BT through the app is a bit on the confusing side and not intuitive for me at least. But what do I know, I'm just a 52 yr old with over 20 custom builds so far... any tips tricks or voodoo dances suggested would be most appreciated before destruction and inevitable go to Phaserunner/CA3. Thanks and cheers!

(Pic in function test mode. Moving motor up in frame for final version. 2018 Santa Cruz Hitower)
 
Well, it goes from bad to worse. Now the app (IOS, brand new IPhone XR) just kicks off every time I change parameters and "download to controller" so it never saves. Now the throttle doesn't work. (facepalm). I've uninstalled and installed the app so its in the controller somewhere. but If I cant change anything, how do I fix it? The only troubleshooting AT ALL I can find on the webs is this thread. I have the programming cable but again cant find an interface or any other way of configuring by PC. I emailed Howard in hopes of something from CYC. Again any help would be great. Thanks.
 
Loppy said:
any tips tricks or voodoo dances suggested would be most appreciated before destruction and inevitable go to Phaserunner/CA3. Thanks and cheers!
Click to expand...
Not really, but I do feel that the controller and software are pretty horrible. Lots of little quirks. I have switched to a CC/CA3 combo and the motor/gearbox on this thing is just awesome. It chugs down big amps and never breaks a sweat. It's a little bit more noisy and the wirr is a little bit more irregular when running sensorless but not a problem. Would be interesting to hear how it behaves with a phaserunner. Might be a real good match, but I wanted the option of more amps.

Speaking of CA3, connecting the integrated mystery thermal sensor (on the ridiculously small connector, yellow wire) to it seems to map pretty darn close to the default setting of "10K Thermistor" on the CA3. I'll do some more testing and report back if I find anything relevant.
 
Hi, I have been following this discussion as I am still debating between a BBSHD and the CYC motor for my first build.
I just thought I would post a valuable resource for everyone, a youtube channel of an EBike builder with experience
with both motors and a early adopter of the CYC. I have found his videos useful, but I still haven't pulled the trigger
on a CYC until some questions have been answered about the latest builds by CYC.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIwEj8Ao33GyCfR2VCkHRmw

No Affiliation, just a great resource

BalfaBoy
 
I usually **hate** getting information from video, but I really like this guy's non nonsense approach, high signal to noise ratio

Thanks much!
 
999zip999 said:
Does anyone know how loud this mid drive is at 72 volts 5000 Watts what is this
Click to expand...
90 dB. Just like your typical lawn mower. :shock:
 
So I ordered an x1 pro and this came in the mail. Little confused!!?! Not sure what to do.
2b079ad8ed598b2e0b39cd1dc9ef6b88.jpg


Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 
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