Nucular Electronics owner's thread (setup infos, FW updates, links etc.)

jameswalker said:
I am more interested in decent control of the throttle during the wheelie.

Should I start saving for the 24F?!
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throttle control wise, special for wheelies, works pretty smooth. makes wheelies really easy.
if you have to wait anyway i would go 24F.

but your mxus is not that amp monster. so a 12F will overheat your Mxus also pretty fast (on full settings)
 
My MXUS is not quite ready for use yet, so I used my existing geared motor wheel build (BMC torque).

I wasn't successful getting the auto tune to work with this motor (I set the poles to 16 first, as instructed) but at the end of the auto tune, the wheel spins, I got "hall fail" error.

I managed to commute to work sensorless, I need to play with the acceleration / clutch config because I limited it too much.

Has anyone succeeded in autotune with a geared hub motor? Any tips to get it working? I know the motor halls are fine, as I literally just moved it off the working bike!

So far I am enjoying this controller. Even sensorless, with the acceleration and clutch config, it makes for a much smoother ride than before.
 
I found the problem; where I had moved the wheel over, the ground wire had chaffed where it left the axle. I will repair that tomorrow and fingers crossed the auto tune will work.

As a side note, I was provided these instructions on how to debug the halls. Very useful info!

Go to controller - debug information - hall input,
There are 3 digits representing 3 hall inputs, spin motor slowly with hand and see if all of them are changing

Obviously when I did this, none of them changed, given the halls were not grounded.
 
A nice review Souvlucky. I had a similarly enjoyable experience with the commute this morning. I fixed the hall sensor ground and now auto tune works perfectly and FOC control was enabled.

The most apparent difference after just 1 ride is how smooth this controller is. Buttery smooth!

I will dig deeper into the settings tonight.
 
Hi Guys

Thanks all for commenting on forum it has really helped us people, i have quick question i count find in the wiki
total battery AH is this set in the display and does it only count down from what ever you set, so best to set it when battery is full.

Also if charging not through the Motor will it replenish the AH or do i need to set it every time, or does it work off Mav min V example.

Cheers, Thanks for your help guys.
 
cheeko said:
Hi Guys

Thanks all for commenting on forum it has really helped us people, i have quick question i count find in the wiki
total battery AH is this set in the display and does it only count down from what ever you set, so best to set it when battery is full.

Also if charging not through the Motor will it replenish the AH or do i need to set it every time, or does it work off Mav min V example.

Cheers, Thanks for your help guys.
Click to expand...
In battery setting folder you set max battery and full charge delta V for example max 80V and delta 2V and when you power on display and you have 78-80V battery it resets wh counter to full.
And it is in wiki... :)
 
lukashanak said:
cheeko said:
Hi Guys

Thanks all for commenting on forum it has really helped us people, i have quick question i count find in the wiki
total battery AH is this set in the display and does it only count down from what ever you set, so best to set it when battery is full.

Also if charging not through the Motor will it replenish the AH or do i need to set it every time, or does it work off Mav min V example.

Cheers, Thanks for your help guys.
Click to expand...
In battery setting folder you set max battery and full charge delta V for example max 80V and delta 2V and when you power on display and you have 78-80V battery it resets wh counter to full.
And it is in wiki... :)
Click to expand...

Thanks Heaps, So in display where it says capacity is that the AH also
 
This bad boy very nice match to my setup

Thanks Nucular
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Sent from my SM-G965F using Tapatalk

 
Joachim said:
jameswalker said:
What are the best control modes plus throttle config for wheelie control, would anyone know?

I am almost at the point where I can test this thing out for real! Hopefully tomorrow.
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12F or 24F?
12F is not an easy to wheelie (Only 250A Phase) but depends on battery voltage ,your engine type and final drive ,hub engine or middrive?

my sur-ron with stock engine 12F nucular controller, 52T rear sprocket you can't make wheelies with
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is the 12F at 250phA better than the stock controller? wondering if I should change over to my 12F or wait for the 24F
 
A new Nuk owner here with the arrival of 3 of the 12F's. 2 will drive a 6phase (dual 3 phase actually) HubMonster, and one is going on my son's 3kw generic hubbie Phazor frame build. I already have CA3's and use will often be in heavy rain conditions, so I picked up only one display for use to set controller parameters.

One of the controllers is already set up with wires out for ebrakes, throttle, 3speed, and cruise, but none are wired for a key switch to turn on, a requirement for all of my builds. I can't find documentation for where to wire in a switch to turn ON a stand-alone 12F Nuk.
 
John in CR said:
A new Nuk owner here with the arrival of 3 of the 12F's. 2 will drive a 6phase (dual 3 phase actually) HubMonster, and one is going on my son's 3kw generic hubbie Phazor frame build. I already have CA3's and use will often be in heavy rain conditions, so I picked up only one display for use to set controller parameters.

One of the controllers is already set up with wires out for ebrakes, throttle, 3speed, and cruise, but none are wired for a key switch to turn on, a requirement for all of my builds. I can't find documentation for where to wire in a switch to turn ON a stand-alone 12F Nuk.

If there are different solutions, I need one that supplies the high voltage to the controller brain section. That way I don't need a separate switch for the DC/DC converters I use to supply 12V for lights.
Click to expand...
 
I would like that it turns on automatically when the battery is connected to the main wires, because i am using a precharge circuit "relay" with keyswitch and would like to avoid to press the display button on the backside additionally each time.

Is this somehow possible?
 
I'm probably just showing what an electrical dumba$$ I am, but here goes? Since everything shares a common ground to battery negative, is there any reason I can't put my keyswitch to complete the circuit to ground for my DC/DC converter as well as K1 to gnd? I'm sticking with fuses as my protection circuitry, because there's no way I'm adding the expense, space usage, or additional failure point of adding a contactor that can handle at least 300A at 80V+. I need to make a keyswitch work for me, worst case the key only completes the K1 to gnd circuit. Then I run brake lights and turn signals off of the 12V supply from the controller, and have my headlight switch turn on the DC/DC only when needed.

On my next controller order, is it possible to pay a bit extra for mods that boost the 12V supply to 4 or 5 amps or more? If I can eliminate a DC/DC converter and still run 30-40W of lights at night, it's worth paying extra. Hopefully all it takes is beefed up wiring in the 12V supply line.

Regarding Madin88's question, the way I see the schematic, doesn't he just need to solder a jumper of K1 to ground for automatic turn on when he powers up?
 
VasiliSk said:
you could use one switch if you add diode. from controller EN -|>|- to switch (dc-dc gnd)
otherwise you will apply high voltage on EN input and controller will be probably dead. really dead. very very. not fun to fix. i warned you.

im working on 3A dc-dc for controllers
Yes actually adding a jumper here also helps sometimes
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I guess I am learning some, since I was actually thinking I needed a diode.
 
Has anyone using solar panels as the power supply for charging via the Nucular controllers' Converter function? Would there be any special considerations or would the controller operating as a converter effectively function as a charge controller enabling the use of panels direct with only a diode and no charge controller? I understand that if my panels are affixed to the vehicle, I'd need a switch on them to go panels direct to battery while vehicle is in use to prevent shutdown because it thinks a charger is connected, as well as pick up some solar charge while operating the vehicle.

I've used panels direct to battery before with a series of panels with an open circuit voltage somewhat above the max battery voltage to get the most out of my panels, but I had to manually monitor SOC to prevent over-charging. How would the Converter function react to an open circuit voltage of the panels higher than the battery max voltage? Along the same lines what kind of load would the panels "see"?
 
Vasilisk can answer better on his controller, but from a solar panel perspective... probably yes, though its ability to deal with any transients is probably non-existant (ie clouds, or someone walking infront of the panel etc). Better off with a dedicated solar controller outputing to a small battery as a buffer, then use the nuke from there - or get a solar controller that can boost the voltage to pack level.

edit - I wouldn't be surprised if the controller can be programmed with a simple MPPT bit of code for charging direct off a panel - its only a few lines of code to get a MPPT running (did it in uni as a project) so the controller could act like a solar controller, assuming there's enough spare memory etc - Vasilisk - im happy to dig up the code from that project if it helps - though im sure you could figure it out yourself anyway :p
 
John in CR said:
Has anyone using solar panels as the power supply for charging via the Nucular controllers' Converter function? Would there be any special considerations or would the controller operating as a converter effectively function as a charge controller enabling the use of panels direct with only a diode and no charge controller? I understand that if my panels are affixed to the vehicle, I'd need a switch on them to go panels direct to battery while vehicle is in use to prevent shutdown because it thinks a charger is connected, as well as pick up some solar charge while operating the vehicle.

I've used panels direct to battery before with a series of panels with an open circuit voltage somewhat above the max battery voltage to get the most out of my panels, but I had to manually monitor SOC to prevent over-charging. How would the Converter function react to an open circuit voltage of the panels higher than the battery max voltage? Along the same lines what kind of load would the panels "see"?

sn0wchyld said:
.... I wouldn't be surprised if the controller can be programmed with a simple MPPT bit of code for charging direct off a panel - its only a few lines of code to get a MPPT running (did it in uni as a project) so the controller could act like a solar controller, assuming there's enough spare memory etc - Vasilisk - im happy to dig up the code from that project if it helps - though im sure you could figure it out yourself anyway :p
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I love the fact that the controller can be a second level of overcharge protection at the cost of only a few watts of heat in the motor copper even at a 20A charge rate with my low resistance motors, so adding the ability to act as a solar charge controller with no usage of space or weight would give it even more value to me.
 
John in CR said:
John in CR said:
Has anyone using solar panels as the power supply for charging via the Nucular controllers' Converter function? Would there be any special considerations or would the controller operating as a converter effectively function as a charge controller enabling the use of panels direct with only a diode and no charge controller? I understand that if my panels are affixed to the vehicle, I'd need a switch on them to go panels direct to battery while vehicle is in use to prevent shutdown because it thinks a charger is connected, as well as pick up some solar charge while operating the vehicle.

I've used panels direct to battery before with a series of panels with an open circuit voltage somewhat above the max battery voltage to get the most out of my panels, but I had to manually monitor SOC to prevent over-charging. How would the Converter function react to an open circuit voltage of the panels higher than the battery max voltage? Along the same lines what kind of load would the panels "see"?

sn0wchyld said:
.... I wouldn't be surprised if the controller can be programmed with a simple MPPT bit of code for charging direct off a panel - its only a few lines of code to get a MPPT running (did it in uni as a project) so the controller could act like a solar controller, assuming there's enough spare memory etc - Vasilisk - im happy to dig up the code from that project if it helps - though im sure you could figure it out yourself anyway :p
Click to expand...
Click to expand...

I love the fact that the controller can be a second level of overcharge protection at the cost of only a few watts of heat in the motor copper even at a 20A charge rate with my low resistance motors, so adding the ability to act as a solar charge controller with no usage of space or weight would give it even more value to me.
Click to expand...
agreed - would be a neat feature. stick my bike on the back of my truck with a panel next to it - charge up while i drive between riding spots :p - not that i'd get much charge but still... make the nuke controllers even more useful!
 
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