Nucular electronics - complete kit for ev!

At the 9'5" time in the video he uses a second throttle ( on the left side ) to act as a e-brake for the motor :thumb:

Can this be done with other controllers and the CA ? ( which is what I have on my bike at the present time )

Does having that second thumb throttle just shut off the motor ? or is there a way for it to activate a regn mode ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpDZBj3VVDw :thumb:

wrong place to ask about other controllers.......here it should be nucular related :wink:

How long is the cable from the controller to the display?

Will be mounting the controller to the bottom of my EEB frame and want to make sure the cable will be long enough or if I need to order a longer one or if I am to just make my own.

ScooterMan101 said:

Can this be done with other controllers and the CA ?

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Off-topic, but yes

PITMIX said:

CAv3 is useless.

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Ramping, throttle curve / mapping adjustments?

Are those all the same thing?

I should have added more explanation so that anyone can understand .... With a 4 month , or more with shipping , lead time to get controller /computer from nucular , I would not be getting anything from Nucular for several months from the time I decide to buy .
I would like to use another throttle to shut off the motor/ controller in the meantime on my existing equipment .
( Can someone who knows how to do this start thread on this in the e-bike general section , please . )

Wonder why Necular have a 4 month lead time ?
I could forget about it or be off on another project by that amount of time.

From the looks of what they are doing I am interested in their products . Would moving to a different country like for example Poland or another country speed things up , would it have a better business environment , lower shipping costs ?

I am interested in the Business Climate for E-Bike/E-Motorcycle /E-Velomobile and Light Electric Vehicles in different parts of the world, as I see China loosing market share in these products in the future .

( Perhaps start a different thread somewhere on E.S. for this topic, but I would like the people or person at Nucular Electronics to see my question here as I am interested in his thoughts on this matter )

Merlin said:

wrong place to ask about other controllers.......here it should be nucular related :wink:

Click to expand...

ScooterMan101 said:

I should have added more explanation so that anyone can understand .... With a 4 month , or more with shipping , lead time to get controller /computer from nucular , I would not be getting anything from Nucular for several months from the time I decide to buy .

Click to expand...

That's how I see things:
Nucular is a start up, they just finished developing their products and and they start production. When they have enough material they will be able to mass produce and reduce deadlines.

Otherwise the controller can be used without a screen with a connector kit and the CA can adapt to any electric bike including those equipped with a Nucular controller. With the CA you will never have all the features that the Nucular LCD can offer.

PITMIX said:

ScooterMan101 said:

I should have added more explanation so that anyone can understand .... With a 4 month , or more with shipping , lead time to get controller /computer from nucular , I would not be getting anything from Nucular for several months from the time I decide to buy .

Click to expand...

That's how I see things:
Nucular is a start up, they just finished developing their products and and they start production. When they have enough material they will be able to mass produce and reduce deadlines.

Otherwise the controller can be used without a screen with a connector kit and the CA can adapt to any electric bike including those equipped with a Nucular controller. With the CA you will never have all the features that the Nucular LCD can offer.

Click to expand...

You always want the LCD.
You need it to program the controller as a dead minimum.
I think it's the only way to power up the controller.

Clearly there is desire for higher voltage. I want this too. I'd have bought 2 of the 24 fet version that worked at 150v max if they existed.

ElectricGod said:

PITMIX said:

ScooterMan101 said:

I should have added more explanation so that anyone can understand .... With a 4 month , or more with shipping , lead time to get controller /computer from nucular , I would not be getting anything from Nucular for several months from the time I decide to buy .

Click to expand...

That's how I see things:
Nucular is a start up, they just finished developing their products and and they start production. When they have enough material they will be able to mass produce and reduce deadlines.

Otherwise the controller can be used without a screen with a connector kit and the CA can adapt to any electric bike including those equipped with a Nucular controller. With the CA you will never have all the features that the Nucular LCD can offer.

Click to expand...

You always want the LCD.
You need it to program the controller as a dead minimum.
I think it's the only way to power up the controller.

Clearly there is desire for higher voltage. I want this too. I'd have bought 2 of the 24 fet version that worked at 150v max if they existed.

Click to expand...

higher voltage controllers (mosfet based) are really only of benefit if you have a slow wind motor that is significantly underutilized at 80VDC, that you cant rewind (for whatever reason)... at least until you get to really big power levels where conductor sizes and breakers can get impractically huge (we're no where near such sizes here). I have one such motor that I haven't yet got round to rewinding (too many projects!) from its 17kv now to ~50kv - a higher voltage controller would be good and save me time/effort, but still not as good as a rewind for higher kv (80VDC mosfets are the highest power density, for example). Runnning 500A conductors really isn't so bad compared to dealing with 300VDC . One is just a bit more copper, the other is properly deadly. One is transient, the other is perpetually hazardous.

Deleted because I should know better than get involved in online arguments. Peace out.

48-60V is the upper end of "kinda safe" if big currents are involved.

Amazingly small power can be fatal in less common scenarios

sn0wchyld said:

higher voltage controllers (mosfet based) are really only of benefit if you have a slow wind motor that is significantly underutilized at 80VDC, that you cant rewind (for whatever reason)... at least until you get to really big power levels where conductor sizes and breakers can get impractically huge (we're no where near such sizes here).

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thanks for making it clear :thumb:

ElectricGod said:

5. Any motor is capable of only so much wattage. Current is what heats up a motor, not voltage. So to maximize motor wattage, run it at higher voltage and less phase current so it heats up less.

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Have you ever heard about iron losses, or that motors have RPM limits?

7. I think you need to read up about electricity. Current kills, not voltage. How many times have you been shocked by static electricity? That's voltages in the 100,000 to millions of volts range, but may be 10mA of current. Compere that to 48v and 400 amps...which will cook you to a crisp in seconds

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If you know so much about electricity then explain how it could be possible to have 400A flowing through your body at only 48V?

I don't mean to sound like an ass but iron losses are pretty negligent. I have plenty of experience with overvolting motors, generally up to 40V more than design.

If you want to talk about losses then look at field weakening

ElectricGod said:

7. I think you need to read up about electricity. Current kills, not voltage. How many times have you been shocked by static electricity? That's voltages in the 100,000 to millions of volts range, but may be 10mA of current. Compere that to 48v and 400 amps...which will cook you to a crisp in seconds

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Wow, so much wrong in so few words. Talking out of your ass is fun until someone's heart goes into vfib.

Vasily,

Please consider making 150v 24 fet controllers. I'll certainly buy them and I'm dead sure lots of other folks will too. I know several people that want them!

What's more, you can charge more for the higher voltage version. How is that bad for you?

I could NOT care less what the nay sayers and whiners think! I want 150v FOC controllers. I'd like to buy them from you please.

The voltages and current don't scare me even slightly. I have respect for them, but fear...none what so ever! That's not stupidity or ineptitude or ignorance, just reality and having dealt with far more voltage and current than I'll likely ever see in an EV I built.

Not that anybody will ever acknowledge this, but for a while in the 1990's I worked for a company that rebuilt and serviced industrial breakers. The smallest breaker I serviced was rated for 3 phase AC at 120v per phase and 600 amps. The biggest one I worked on was rated for 4000 volts AC and 1200 amps. That's nothing compared to the induction motors connected to them! I worked on breakers not motors. The biggest motor I ever serviced a breaker for was 12 feet tall with a stator that was 8 feet tall inside the stator! That motor needed a 40 hp induction motor just to start it running. No starter capacitor or bank of them existed at the time that could get the big motor running. You had to spin it up via a much smaller motor. LOL! Not that a 40hp induction motor is small! The breaker on that big motor was 3 phase, 1000v per phase and 800 amps. The bigger breakers I worked (4000v/1200A) on were used as the entry point into factory floors or other large industrial faculties before the AC power line was stepped down to more usable voltages...like 1000v or 800v or 480v or even a fiddling 120v for your computer.

150v and maybe 100-200 amps...I'm laughing...chump change!

eee291 said:

I don't mean to sound like an ass but iron losses are pretty negligent. I have plenty of experience with overvolting motors, generally up to 40V more than design.

If you want to talk about losses then look at field weakening

Click to expand...

I have a couple of inrunners where they are designed for 48v, but they do fine at 82v. That's just short of 40v over specs. 100v was OKish, but I could tell iron losses were starting to pile up. Going higher than that and the iron losses get to be a significant problem. I tried running at 36S or 147v and the iron losses were pretty bad. At no load the motor got hot quickly.

That's what trying stuff and seeing what happens gets you. I'd tested to beyond the practical iron loss limits of the motor. Now I know I cant run that motor for best efficiency above 82v.

The hubmonster...a 6 phase hub motor does great at double its design voltage (60v). It does fine at more than that. I have a couple of outrunners that do great at better than 40+ over their spec'd voltage. Just depends on the motor.

I agree with your statement 40v over is usually OK.

You know...field weakening can be pretty good for not a lot of extra current. IPM inrunners do really good since the armature is all exposed iron. Motors with no exposed iron in the armature do the least well. For them FW is pretty much a waste. I have a C80100 outrunner. Max FW got me 1 mph more speed and 20 amps more current draw. That was NOT worth the trouble!

ElectricGod, stop offtoping about motors!

Ok, I've done some searching but can't seem to find it.

How do I change the Wh of my battery? Mine seems to be set to 850Wh and I cannot change it.

Cheers

Settings - On-board computer - Main screen setup

Thanks. I think I was confused as there is also battery setup under the controller configuration.

I have another problem also.

Sometimes, when I go WOT, it will accelerate for a few seconds, then cut out. It only happens sometimes, and going WOT again usually seems to work. It's almost as if some kind of over-current protection, or battery voltage sag detection is kicking in, but I can't find either of these kind of settings.

Any idea's?

Cheers

You can check it in controller- status flags after cut-out
if it's a throttle try make throttle detect again

Like the 12 fet, the 24 fet controller is quite small.
I have had no chance to connect up to anything yet, since they arrived Saturday, but that will happen soon.

This is a Kelly trapezoidal 8kw controller next to the 24 fet Nucular.





And a 24 fet LYEN and 18 fet crystallyte I had lying around...

Cool ! 8) Thank you for pictures.

ElectricGod said:

sn0wchyld said:

ElectricGod said:

Clearly there is desire for higher voltage. I want this too. I'd have bought 2 of the 24 fet version that worked at 150v max if they existed.

Click to expand...

higher voltage controllers (mosfet based) are really only of benefit if you have a slow wind motor that is significantly underutilized at 80VDC, that you cant rewind (for whatever reason).....
.... One is just a bit more copper, the other is properly deadly. One is transient, the other is perpetually hazardous.

Click to expand...

Not true...depends on what you are doing and why.
..................

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Ugh... not sure you read what I wrote mate... but not going to clog up a sales thread with OT discussions on motor performance specifics so will point to my response here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=102934
if you want the TLDR version just re-read my first post.

Happy to answer if you have further questions on that thread, but otherwise ill go the way of sam, and only answer this 'argument' for the sake of other readers knowledge. Vasilli, love ya work mate. Hopefully this saves you some work given you're already struggling to keep up with demand!!!

Any further updates yet on the BMS development/eta?

ElectricGod said:

sn0wchyld said:

ElectricGod said:

Clearly there is desire for higher voltage. I want this too. I'd have bought 2 of the 24 fet version that worked at 150v max if they existed.

Click to expand...

higher voltage controllers (mosfet based) are really only of benefit if you have a slow wind motor that is significantly underutilized at 80VDC, that you cant rewind (for whatever reason).....
.... One is just a bit more copper, the other is properly deadly. One is transient, the other is perpetually hazardous.

Click to expand...

Not true...depends on what you are doing and why.
..................

Click to expand...

Ugh... not sure you read what I wrote mate... but not going to clog up a sales thread with OT discussions on motor performance specifics so will point to my response here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=102934
if you want the TLDR version just re-read my first post.

Happy to answer if you have further questions on that thread, but otherwise ill go the way of sam, and only answer this 'argument' for the sake of other readers knowledge. Vasilli, love ya work mate. Hopefully this saves you some work given you're already struggling to keep up with demand!!!

Any further updates yet on the BMS development/eta?