tsdz2 torque sensor broken

toñocid

1 mW
Joined
Feb 6, 2019
Messages
11
I am really dissatisfyed with this torque sensor.It is really weak, I have broken it in two different bikes in about 1000 km.And I never forced them.In really normal use.So or tongsheng make torque sensors with more resistent materil or is not a good purchase this motor.
 
the problem is the groove for the ring that fixes the torque gear.this makes the torque extremely weak
 
If you want to know the symptoms when your torque sensor is broken:

.When you press the pedal and stop the motor continue working a time
.you feel more power assist than normal
.your battery lasts minus
.when the torque is full broken you feel irregular assist
 
I do not know how to upload images here.i would like to show images of the broken torque
 
Just save the picture to your computer (downsize it to less than 2Mbytes, I believe). Then when you post a message use the attachment button to add it to your post. Or alternatively save the picture to an image hosting site like Imgur and use the provided code for posting pics to forums. Just copy that and paste it into the message body here.

I'd like to see these. Also wonder how hard it is to replace this part?


toñocid said:
I do not know how to upload images here.i would like to show images of the broken torque
 
Replacing the torque is a complicated job but you can do it.I am not able to upload images I,m sorry
 
Hi, Some time ago I replaced the torque sensor on a TSDZ2. I posted comments and hints on the main TSDZ2 thread here on ES.. look around page 80 of that massive thread, or search my posts.

A bit tricky in places, but not too bad. Long, straight external circlip pliers are the only "special" tool needed, to remove the circlip on the non-drive side of the torque sensor after removing the oil seal.

The main thing to remember is to have the bike (or motor, if you have removed the motor from the bike) lying on its side with the drive (right hand) side upwards when you remove the torque sensor assembly. This is because there are three tiny springs under the stationary coil, and these springs will jump out and get lost if you don't tip the motor on its side (ask me how I know...).

From your description it sounds as though the main pedal shaft of the torque sensor broke at the circlip groove. I believe that the pedal shaft can be removed and replaced without removing the whole assembly, by removing the circlips at both ends and tapping the shaft out to the left, but I haven't tried it myself.
The unit I replaced had failed in a different way and the pedal shaft was ok. I wanted to keep the damaged sensor, but had to return it for warranty purposes.
 
My torque sensor is also broken, I took some photos so I can share them here.

zCv4jSd.jpg

934p1m6.jpg


As the sensor has misaligned from the center of the magnets, it has a bias. In my case it's against assistance: the motor only helps when there is already a lot of torque applied.

I had this problem since a month ago, as the crankset had "play" I though it was the clutch gear and bought a replacement, but when I opened the motor eveything got out and I saw the crack.

I remounted everything yesterday but this morning on a uphill start from stop I heard a "crack" and now my pedaling has some "elastic play", has a "cusihon". I fear the crack has gone wider and is flexing. I'll stop using the bike until I recive the replacement.
 
My torque sensor stoped, start again, etc …

A wire was not well welded

This engine is not reliable, the access to components is not easy and it gets easily warm ...
 
Keen to get updates please, as I think my sensor is gone also. Was riding, got a higher pitched grrr sound, and not the motor provides no assist ... Re/re1 readings are 90/99. My crank also had play, and prior motor was running after I had come to a stop ... seemed as though this might be a progressive failure.
 
Mine has also stopped detecting torque following a rebuild (it was making a grinding noise as if sand had got in it). During the disassembly I broke one of the wires going to the spring ring but I managed to resolder it successfully - I checked there was resistance between the two contacts.

Anyone care to speculate what my problem might be?
 
LePeche said:
Keen to get updates please, as I think my sensor is gone also. Was riding, got a higher pitched grrr sound, and not the motor provides no assist ... Re/re1 readings are 90/99. My crank also had play, and prior motor was running after I had come to a stop ... seemed as though this might be a progressive failure.
Seems the blu gear, have you see if is it broken?
 
@andrea_104kg - blue cog was ok, and I suspect the internal bearing is ok. Ordered metal one and a spare blue one, and there's no change. Chinese vendor not much use - timezone, language, etc. Put the motor into test mode for torque, and readings suggest its ok. But I get no power assist. Feels like the motor is trying to do something because it sounds different. Options ... one way bearing (I understand this is more to do with pedal slippage though) or PAS sensor. Supplier did ask that I move the speed senor closer to the magnet...my issue with this is I've done 1300kms and no issues.

I do believe the motor is fragile, and to have reliability you almost need to stock at least one of each part. I was quite attracted to the ideal of this motor ... but its just not robust/ reliable enough. Will continue to try different options to fix.

In the mean time I've bought a Giant e Pro 3+ ... was 20% of RRP - its a nice piece of kit, and hopefully reliable. No real difference in power, but more refined - quiet, low temp, and smooth.

Regret going down the Tongsheng path as a commuter...you pay for what you get I suppose.
 
LePeche said:
@andrea_104kg - blue cog was ok, and I suspect the internal bearing is ok. Ordered metal one and a spare blue one, and there's no change. Chinese vendor not much use - timezone, language, etc. Put the motor into test mode for torque, and readings suggest its ok. But I get no power assist. Feels like the motor is trying to do something because it sounds different. Options ... one way bearing (I understand this is more to do with pedal slippage though) or PAS sensor. Supplier did ask that I move the speed senor closer to the magnet...my issue with this is I've done 1300kms and no issues.

I do believe the motor is fragile, and to have reliability you almost need to stock at least one of each part. I was quite attracted to the ideal of this motor ... but its just not robust/ reliable enough. Will continue to try different options to fix.

In the mean time I've bought a Giant e Pro 3+ ... was 20% of RRP - its a nice piece of kit, and hopefully reliable. No real difference in power, but more refined - quiet, low temp, and smooth.

Regret going down the Tongsheng path as a commuter...you pay for what you get I suppose.
See the TSDZ2 wiki FAQ, I would say your issue can be the slipping in the blue gear clutch bearing -- my solution is to take out the blue gear and clean the clutch bearing with WD40. I still don't understand why this clutch fails but I think it blocks and the WD40 make it free to work again.
 
Hi

Anyone suffering from broken bottom bracket spindles, I'm currently waiting for upgraded samples machined from EN24 through-hardened steel, which should be much much stronger. If they perform I'll get a small batch made, you can email me at dave@revolvemcr.com if you're interested!

Cheers

Dave
 
Yes, I just broke one last week, probably 800 miles on it - cracked at the torque sensor much like mgtroyas's photos above. I'll probably send you an email.

Edit: though you talking about spindles, does that mean you're not replacing that portion?
 
So stupidly I have lost the springs behind the torque sensors. Any one know where I can get replacements please?
 
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