new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

Tommm said:
No need. Get narrow wide alu, unless you are doing single speed.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=32 ... de&_sop=15

Thanks for the link Tommm, I've seen those aluminum ones come up in my search. They seem pretty inexpensive. What is your reason for suggesting the aluminum ones over steel?
 
pwd said:
Tommm said:
No need. Get narrow wide alu, unless you are doing single speed.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=32 ... de&_sop=15

Thanks for the link Tommm, I've seen those aluminum ones come up in my search. They seem pretty inexpensive. What is your reason for suggesting the aluminum ones over steel?

Cyclone for a lot of parts like to use pig iron. You might have been able to bend it by hand even. The narrow wide is important, they hold the chain better, less chance of it jumping off.
 
Wunderbar, thanks Tommm!

Tommm said:
pwd said:
Tommm said:
No need. Get narrow wide alu, unless you are doing single speed.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=32 ... de&_sop=15

Thanks for the link Tommm, I've seen those aluminum ones come up in my search. They seem pretty inexpensive. What is your reason for suggesting the aluminum ones over steel?

Cyclone for a lot of parts like to use pig iron. You might have been able to bend it by hand even. The narrow wide is important, they hold the chain better, less chance of it jumping off.
 
electric_nz said:
Anyone have any idea what MOSFETs the standard controller uses? And the 60A version?

Afaik the 60a version is the same as the 40a version pre shunted. I have a 60a one, it came with solder on the shunt.
You can open up yours and check, you only need to open the non wire side lid. If the shunt is dry, have at it.
 
Where are you guys ordering the cyclones from? Luna is out if stock, so I orderes from the cyclone site in Taiwan. I havent heard anything except a paypal receit. No order confirmation or anything. Tried to email them yesterday, but so far no answer. Anyone experienced the same?
 
HrKlev said:
Where are you guys ordering the cyclones from? Luna is out if stock, so I orderes from the cyclone site in Taiwan. I havent heard anything except a paypal receit. No order confirmation or anything. Tried to email them yesterday, but so far no answer. Anyone experienced the same?

I ordered mine form http://sickbikeparts.com/electric-shift-kits-e-products. As Stanislavchik has pointed out though, the extended Chinese holidays may be affecting orders. Give them some time.
 
HrKlev said:
Where are you guys ordering the cyclones from? Luna is out if stock, so I orderes from the cyclone site in Taiwan. I havent heard anything except a paypal receit. No order confirmation or anything. Tried to email them yesterday, but so far no answer. Anyone experienced the same?

They reply to emails pretty fast. I use cyclonebike gmail
 
Received mine from SBP pretty quickly but that was a year or so ago. Also, they respond rapidly to emails.
 
I've looked, I've searched, I've failed.

Can anyone tell me if it's possible/practical to remove the gearbox from the 3KW Cyclone and run a sprocket direct from the motor shaft?

From all the pictures I've found I'm not clear if:
a. the face of the motor is flush. If not can I machine it flat without compromising it?
b. is the shaft diameter sufficient that it could withstand the bending moment from a chain drive on it? I think it's 17mm dia from a post I saw about changing bearings, but not 100% sure.
c. is there anything else in it's build that would make this impractical?

This might work nicely for me on a non-pedal low speed/high torque bike, running maybe 11-99 tooth 219 chain drive.

Thanks

EDIT
This has been solved.
Apparently it is a 17mm shaft at the bearing, then steps down to 10mm with keyway for the steel gear to press on to.
 
Edit for clarity: I have the non Bluetooth version and I’m interested in how the default settings compare to the Bluetooth version.

Anyone using the black Bluetooth 40A controller as pictured here? Are the stock settings the same as the non Bluetooth version and how does it run out of the box?

http://sickbikeparts.com/water-resistant-36v-72v-cyclone-programmable-controller/
 
I run that controller shunted to 60A, works very well. I did set the phase to 50% and adjusted a few settings to smooth it out and it seems to be less twitchy than the non BT one.

Stock wasn't different from the non BT one.

G.
 
Is the stock BT controller from Sick Bike Parts shunted?
I don;t want to open it up if i don;t have to.
Just finished my build on a Norco Sasquach , 60V battery. 44 36 gears x 8 speed , pulls hard and tops out around 50kph.
 
Zeddriver said:
Is the stock BT controller from Sick Bike Parts shunted?
I don;t want to open it up if i don;t have to.
Just finished my build on a Norco Sasquach , 60V battery. 44 36 gears x 8 speed , pulls hard and tops out around 50kph.

Doesn't look like, the shunt is bare.

Does anyone have any pics of the cyclone mounted on a 100mm bottom bracket? Specifically what spacers/brackets were used.
 
forcefed said:
...Does anyone have any pics of the cyclone mounted on a 100mm bottom bracket? Specifically what spacers/brackets were used.

Check out my build: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=102195 I don't recall using any extra spacers. I think I just threaded the cup into the bike so it was just wide enough to fit the motor bracket. I then used the lock rings on the cup, one on each side of the motor bracket.
 
pwd said:
forcefed said:
...Does anyone have any pics of the cyclone mounted on a 100mm bottom bracket? Specifically what spacers/brackets were used.

Check out my build: https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=102195 I don't recall using any extra spacers. I think I just threaded the cup into the bike so it was just wide enough to fit the motor bracket. I then used the lock rings on the cup, one on each side of the motor bracket.

My issue is that the spacing on the cyclone mount is 115mm when using the 1/2" spacers beside the idler, am i supposed to bend the thin bracket on the non drive side? If i don't use the 1/2" spacers then it mounts fine to the bb but the chainline is off by 1/2", so then i have push the spindle out half an inch, space out the smaller chainring from the bigger one 1/2", but then i'll need a longer spindle since i need to move it out by 1/2".
 
I do believe the thin bracket on the non-drive side is supposed to have a slight bend in it. That is what I did with mine.
 
pwd said:
I do believe the thin bracket on the non-drive side is supposed to have a slight bend in it. That is what I did with mine.

So here's the motor mounted with the straight bracket http://imgur.com/a/iZlnYoJ the distance between both brackets is around 115mm on my 100mm bb.

I bent the bracket a bit and got this http://imgur.com/a/qgZ7UHk but the motor isn't perfectly square, would this matter that much or am I too paranoid?
Does yours look similar?
 
I went out and checked my setup and here is what it looks like:
IMG_20200505_091538.jpg
IMG_20200505_091549.jpg

Your bend on the thin bracket isn't quite the same. Your's doesn't appear to have much of a sharp bend near the crank. The motor should be parallel with your bottom bracket so that it has the best chain line possible (from the motor to the chainring). It won't matter too much as long as your chain isn't stressed at an angle.


forcefed said:
pwd said:
I do believe the thin bracket on the non-drive side is supposed to have a slight bend in it. That is what I did with mine.

So here's the motor mounted with the straight bracket http://imgur.com/a/iZlnYoJ the distance between both brackets is around 115mm on my 100mm bb.

I bent the bracket a bit and got this http://imgur.com/a/qgZ7UHk but the motor isn't perfectly square, would this matter that much or am I too paranoid?
Does yours look similar?
 
pwd said:
Your's doesn't appear to have much of a sharp bend near the crank.
I straightened it out so the motor would be as parallel as it could with the bb and honestly it looks fine to the naked eye https://i.imgur.com/YfAZqri.jpg
 
I'm looking into upgrading my old 1680w motor to the new 3000, I was wondering if anyone knew a way to elongate the waterproof motor cable, well other than cutting and soldering in wires, like if there is an extension cable I can purchase. thanks
 
Djadub3 said:
I'm looking into upgrading my old 1680w motor to the new 3000, I was wondering if anyone knew a way to elongate the waterproof motor cable, well other than cutting and soldering in wires, like if there is an extension cable I can purchase. thanks

Cyclone-tw web page has cables listed on their bldc motors page, right at the bottom
 
Im considering Cyclone 18kw or the new QS 138 4000watt motor. Someone got any info on which is the strongest?
Im not sure i trust these pages info :)
What about heat generating on these two? Etc etc
 
Well, after building 1 Cyclone powered eBike and 3 Cyclone powered eTrikes, I figured that one more Cyclone eBike wouldn't hurt so my son and I got this one built in under 4 hours, and it works great. Love the new motor mounting angled plate, and the waterproof connectors... It was as easy as it gets, and compared to my first Cyclone eBike build (err... nightmare) from 2015, this one was a breeze. Everything just worked, no bending, etc! :) thumb throttle is a perhaps too big for the handlebar but I have plans on swapping some components etc, to make it all fit nicely. :)

99436380_3116441438470039_7391872822198403072_o.jpg


G.
 
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